Hello Gents. New member.

Tom Wesenberg said:
May as well buy a new shaft at the same time you buy the bushings, because I always find them worn also. The lower shaft might also need to be replaced.
Click to expand...

I'm not doubting your wisdom but in what ways can the lower shaft wear? Do the slotted ends get enlarged allowing rotational slop?
 
SeaSlugs said:
I'm not doubting your wisdom but in what ways can the lower shaft wear? Do the slotted ends get enlarged allowing rotational slop?
Click to expand...

Yep, I've seen the tang worn to a pointed diamond shape. Also the lower shaft likes to rust so bad it's full of pits, so it's best to just replace it and smear grease all over the new one when it's installed.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Yep, I've seen the tang worn to a pointed diamond shape. Also the lower shaft likes to rust so bad it's full of pits, so it's best to just replace it and smear grease all over the new one when it's installed.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, my lower shaft was lightly pitted but a good sandblast and por 15 and then a layer of grease took care of that. Ends looked good.
 
Ok. No, or very little, axial play in the distributor shaft. The gap between the rotor and the contacts are easily bouble the .030. I did replace the top cap not the plastic body of the distributor top. Is the gap between the rotor and the contacts of the top vital?
 
Getting the gap between the rotor and the contacts in the housing correct is pretty important in my book. You can bend the contact on the rotor to take up the gap. If one or two of the gaps ends up being too small you can file those contact(s) on the distributor body down in order to make all of the gaps the same.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top