1930artdeco
Well-known member
Ok, time to heat the block around the stuck distributor. What is the best and safest way to heat the block with a hand held torch so I don’t crack it? I can’t seem to find anything on you tube.
Mike
Mike
Heating up a block to get stuck dizzy out
- Thread starter 1930artdeco
- Start date
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
I wouldn't heat the block with a torch at all. The dizzy housing is made out of aluminum, which would melt or become distorted before the cast iron block could be heated enough to expand the opening.
Remove the distributor hold-down bolt. Spray WD-40 all around the base of the dizzy and try to use a pry-bar to push it up between the block and base of the dizzy. You may need to slowly and carefully apply pressure to the pry-bar all the way around the base of the dizzy.
Additionally, I would not try to pry the dizzy out by using a long pry-bar against the bottom of the dizzy head. It might cause a crack at the bottom of the dizzy head.
Remove the distributor hold-down bolt. Spray WD-40 all around the base of the dizzy and try to use a pry-bar to push it up between the block and base of the dizzy. You may need to slowly and carefully apply pressure to the pry-bar all the way around the base of the dizzy.
Additionally, I would not try to pry the dizzy out by using a long pry-bar against the bottom of the dizzy head. It might cause a crack at the bottom of the dizzy head.
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
Agree with the method. I think a true penetrant (which WD-40 is not) would yield quicker results. I like PB Blaster. If it's well and truly stuck time and patience are required.
richard crow
Well-known member
use lacquer thinner. it cuts the sluge
1930artdeco
Well-known member
I used Kroil over several weeks and nothing. I mean she is locked solid into the block. I have a fabric strap wrench I can use on the body-just need to take the vacuum adv. off. I will see if I can get a pry bar under somehow and apply pressure. I also have the plans from another guy who built a tool for this job.
Mike
Mike
It takes an extraordinary amount of heat to heat up a block from the outside. Time and blaster, took 3 weeks and a pool of blaster on a later 400 engine once. Also had 351W on engine stand for couple of months with the blaster and tried heating. Ended up tearing engine apart and driving it out from the bottom. It was a problem back in the day and one of the tool manufactures made what was basically a crow foot and a jack screw that fit under distributor and pushed it up. Wish I could find the maker of the tool or at least a picture. My 351 endeavor turned into a disaster, yes it broke off in the block. Are you just trying to set timing or overhauling?
Late model
Member
Something like this?
Attachments
1930artdeco
Well-known member
This is a set timing and overhaul. That tool that Late Model pictured is his tool and I still have to try and make it. I will report back when I get the chance.
Mike
Mike
Fortunateson
Well-known member
Use ATF/Acetone 50:50. The absolute best rust buster!
[FONT="]Just to add my experience to the discussion, I've tried about five or six different penetrating oils on my stuck distributor (over the last several weeks) with little or no benefit. In the past, I've used most of these products on conventional rust corrosion with good results, so it's not like they're substandard penetrating oils.
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[FONT="]My goal is to adjust timing (currently 3 degrees retarded at idle) so I don't want to pull engine. I wonder if that tool late model showed could be used with the engine in the car.
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[FONT="]My goal is to adjust timing (currently 3 degrees retarded at idle) so I don't want to pull engine. I wonder if that tool late model showed could be used with the engine in the car.
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Late model
Member
Jim,
I haven't tried it in a car, but I built it as small as possible just so it would. I haven't had a chance try it on my 56, but hopefully will this week.
It definitely works great on engines on a stand. I have used it three times so far.
Don
I haven't tried it in a car, but I built it as small as possible just so it would. I haven't had a chance try it on my 56, but hopefully will this week.
It definitely works great on engines on a stand. I have used it three times so far.
Don
mercman from oz
Well-known member
Heating up a block to get stuck dizzy out.
This problem was discussed recently ~ here's the link with some great recommendations..
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=299011
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=299011
Crankster
Well-known member
One thing I haven't seen mentioned, that may or may not work, just thinking out loud - the Y-Block may be almost unique (at least Ford) in the fact that it has an external oil pump and removal of same would allow access to or from the underside of the distributor body itself. Maybe it would be possible to get some oomph on that thing from that direction and drive it out that way.
Hot Rod Reverend
Well-known member
No one has mentioned this specifically yet so I will throw my hat in the ring here. I too have dismantled quite a few Y blocks and the distributor can certainly be a headache. While there is good wisdom in the idea of not using heat, I have found that if you use a propane torch (not the OxyAcetylene lol) things can get hot enough without damage tho. It does take a while to heat up the metals of course.
1930artdeco
Well-known member
1930artdeco
Well-known member
Yeah leverage and hydraulics always win out. Although the win may not be what you wanted��.