heads / torqueing

4

4ford

Senior Member
I have never really heard this before when installing new aluminum offy heads. there is instructions in with the copper gaskets to paint both sides? then it says to torque the heads from one side to the other, like left to right or right to left?? and to start the motor with no water or antifreeze run for 5 minutes then re torque???? :rolleyes:

the only thing that sounds ok to me is to re torque after 5minutes.

any ideas. your comments are appreciated.;)
 
By paint they are referring to spray paint, normally silver or gold paint. This has been a common practice for years. There are many points of view on the best torque sequence and from one side to the other is one of them. On the start up, some say water only and some say dry. Like everything else related to flatheads there are an endless number of points of view.
 
Where the instructions from Offy or from Speedway? That sounds a lot like the Speedway tip on how to install alum heads.
 
5 minutes without water? No. I have run motors for a few seconds without water just to try something but even 1 minute would be sort of long.
I can see the logic of tightening from one side all the way across, but I think starting from the middle and going to the two sides is better. That's the way heads have been done for ages.
 
I don't think that the sequence is a big deal as long as the job is done in a series of incremental steps. I have always run my engines dry just long enough to build some heat in the engine. Let cool, retorque, fill with water, run, cool, retorque as needed. Only then will I put antifreeze in.
 
I've always liked the center-out torque method with aluminum heads. It's the same method used on modern overhead valve aluminum heads today. Install in three or more torque steps and you'll be fine. A five minute dry run under 1500 RPM is good. It won't heat the whole block up much but will heat the heads nicely. Now re-torque again.

Lonnie
 
I think the real beauty of the flathead is: Just about anything you do to it works. The perfect engine for those that like to be different.
 
As usual, Flatjack has applied common sense with engineering/science to give the correct perspective. Bottom line---the sequence is unimportant if done in multiple, incrementally adjusted, steps.

I run dry until I feel the aluminum getting hot. Not nearly 5 minutes.

One more thing, do NOT apply excessive torque. Never more than 50 lbs. 45 is good with aluminum.
 
ok so if I start the motor and let it run 1-2 min re torque one time or a few. think I will stick with the sequence in the books. then add water and antifreeze. what about spraying with copper gasket sealer?
 
That's all I use on my heads. I just rebuilt my 59AB and used copper coat spray sealer on the head gaskets. Just my 2 cents.
 
I have always installed my heads without any sealer. If both surfaces are smooth and flat as they should be, none is required.
 
"the only thing that sounds ok to me is to re torque after 5minutes"

You heat cycle the engine, but no one is torqueing the heads while hot are they?
 
I agree with JSeery--I torque after complete cool-down, not when hot. I do spray aluminum paint on both sides of gaskets. I think it makes cleaning easier when heads are removed and it adheres to the age old myths for sealing Flatheads.
 
that's what I meant but didn't put it that way :( so how many times would you re torque? after cool downs
 
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