Headlights

F

flathead48

Well-known member
Looking to improve the 6 volt headlights on my 48 automobile. Found this diagram on F B but lost as to the advantage of solenoid ?View attachment 559605
 

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I believe the solenoid is shown to depict the source of a battery connection for headlight power. It does not perform any function in the headlight circuit. dw
 
flathead48 said:
Looking to improve the 6 volt headlights on my 48 automobile. Found this diagram on F B but lost as to the advantage of solenoid ?View attachment 559605
Click to expand...

I have installed a ground directly to the bucket (soldered) and then to the frame (soldered) in a way that no one could possibly see this additional wire. I do this for the head and the tail lamps. It makes a huge difference.
 
Thanks guys, Mike I did put a ground ******** the headlight buckets & taillights but trying to improve brightness when in cities or other times when RPMs are low. Thanks to all
 
Flathead48
I did this install on my '46 Coupe, after cleaning all the grounds and wiring connections, gave minimal improvement. The solenoid you referenced is the starter solenoid, and the yellow wire is connected to the battery side of the solenoid. There is no fuse shown in the yellow wire between the solenoid and the relays, which is not correct. The circuit needs fused protection. On my install, I left all the original disconnected wiring in place, and hid as best as possible, the new wiring and components. I now have nice bright headlights, and even get other cars "flashing" me when I forget to dim.
 

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Thanks 51 woodie, I am just curious as to why use a solenoid , it seems u could go right from the battery to a 30 amp circuit breaker than finish the rest of the wiring. Thanks again to all.
Rick
 
flathead48 said:
Thanks 51 woodie, I am just curious as to why use a solenoid , it seems u could go right from the battery to a 30 amp circuit breaker than finish the rest of the wiring. Thanks again to all.
Rick
Click to expand...
If the solenoid is mounted in a favorable position (more direct wire runs) and a heavier gauge wire is used, there will be less resistance to the electrical flow and the lights, getting more voltage, will be brighter. This can be a help if there is a problem (corrosion, marginal connections, etc.) with the original wiring. In most cases, if the original wiring is in good shape, there will not a significant improvement. My '51, which was well-maintained and stored under good conditions previous to my ownership, has bright, white headlights on 6 volts.

Remember that under normal circumstances, the power for the headlights goes through the switch on the dash which adds length and extra connections to the circuit. A solenoid eliminates all of that.
 
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Not to disagree with Tubman's reply, mine says the same thing with different wording:
With solenoids fed by 10 gauge wire, one each for high beam and low beam, mounted up front near the radiator, you'll get full battery voltage as close as practical to the headlights. Those solenoids being triggered by the original circuits which run through smaller gauge wire, headlight switch, and dimmer switch, will have too much built-in resistance for the headlights, but sufficient voltage to activate the solenoids.
 
Ghere is a lot written on the G503 forum about this topic as most WWII vehicles were 6v and improving headlight and brake light visability is a concern. LED conversions, 12v upgrades, etc.
 
ford38v8 said:
Not to disagree with Tubman's reply, mine says the same thing with different wording:
With solenoids fed by 10 gauge wire, one each for high beam and low beam, mounted up front near the radiator, you'll get full battery voltage as close as practical to the headlights. Those solenoids being triggered by the original circuits which run through smaller gauge wire, headlight switch, and dimmer switch, will have too much built-in resistance for the headlights, but sufficient voltage to activate the solenoids.
Click to expand...

This, excellent grounds and LEDs are the way to enlightenment :-)

Glenn
 
As said and implied, grounding of headlights and using the most efficient supply i.e. the shortest routing of the headlight feed wires from starter solenoid thru a fuse to the lights. I used Relays a/k/a solenoids and heavy gauge wire on both the high and low beam circuits .... and much lighter gauge wire from the relays to the headlight switch. I also did same on a separate circuit for my Fog Lights.
 
Can not resist adding to this thread.

I found that JEEP has LED headlights (12 V) that fit right into my 1935's headlight buckets perfectly... ( https://ca.doxmall.com/product/doxm...17-jeep-wrangler-jk-jku-headlamp-replacement/ )

I integrated a 6 v to 12 v converter ( https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Vol.../dp/B0D77XGGCK/?tag=atomicindus08-20 ) and the lights work perfectly.

Added benefit is that the JEEP Headlights have an integrated outer ring turn signal built right in too. :)

They work great and light up the road like a football field. Two years out I have no complaints. :)
 
I find that the voltage booster works so well is encouraging. The one he lists is 10 AMPS, which should be plenty with LED lights, and I imagine the increased current draw caused by the overhead of said converter is not significant.
 
Here is the Jeep headlight installed in my 1935 headlight bucket. It's LED and has integrated ring turn signal that flashes amber. It's 7 Inch diameter.
 

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