Headlights

[A-Man]

I am considering converting my six volt system to twelve volt on my 1930 CCPU, which I am now restoring. I am debating what, if any, changes I should make with the headlight system. Is the twelve volt headlight bulb system brighter than the conventional six volt? I do not want to convert to a sealed beam system, however, I am giving thought to converting to a Halogen headlight system. I would like to hear comments regarding changes that have been made, as well as pros and cons for converting a headlight system.

Also, I would be interested in hearing comments regarding the headlight reflectors. What type of headlight reflector will provide the best reflection? Thanks.

 

[gardon]

12 volt bulbs are really bright. They work very well.

 

[Kevin in NJ]

You most reliable and economical set up will be staying with properly rebuilt original generator, reflectors, and light sockets. Make sure the wiring is in excellent condition (correct gauge) with the connectors clean and fully attached.

The original reflectors need to be properly resilvered. The repro reflectors do not focus properly and will not give you the light where you need it.

Get the direct replacement halogen bulbs made in Australia by Classic and Vintage bulbs. The Little British Car Company is the USA distributer. There are also lower cost halogen bulbs made in India that do not have the filament in the correct position so they will not focus and not give you any thing better than the original incandescent bulbs. These made in India bulbs are being sold by the many of the parts houses, so beware. The CVB's will be marked on the box and the bulbs are obviously of better quality in all aspects.

OR
You could spend some bucks and get $$$ modern halogen bulb set up the requires you to spend $$$ for an alternator. The alternator will need the belt to be pulled tight so you also will end up getting a new water pump for $$$. I have not seen an alt install where the belt is tight enough to give any reasonable amount of charge when I have checked at the shows.

With the single wire alternator then you need to add a battery cut off. The one wire alternator has a small back current that will drain your battery when the engine is off. I think that little fact is left off of the details. Do not get the cheap switches that mount directly to the battery. They can melt just from the current of starting the car. I have seen this on a 12V battery install where you have 1/2 the current!!

The only 'catch' to running the all original set up is you need to understand setting the 3rd brush. You can spend some $$$ for a voltage regulator which can help keep you battery happier over the long term if you do not want to pay attention to you third brush. You do not need the regulator, just some common sense.

For example my brother will run with the head lights during the day and keep the charge rate up some. This prevents over charging the battery. He only get like 5 to 8 years on a battery with the generator he rebuilt in 1970 (when he was 15).

The 12 volt system helps to over come poor wiring as you only need half the current. So poor connections will have less effect. The brightness should be the same if the wiring is able to move the current. The halogen bulbs I am telling you able only uses slightly more current then the factory bulbs.

 

[MikeK]

Kevin in NJ is sure right about the wiring. Often overlooked is the 'ground' or 'earth' side of the circuit. I like to add ground wires to the sockets and run it directly to the pivot bolt. If it is not a high points judging car, you can eliminate the often troublesome bayonet connector and run the extra ground wire down the conduit and directly to the frame.

 

[Kevin in NJ]

Mikek, I need to use your headlamp as an example and I do not want you to take offense.

If you look at the inside of Mike's lame you will see he painted the steel ring around the headlamp shell. Not much hope of a good ground. Given the condition of the steel rings I can understand wanting to paint the area, but here is where you have to keep in mind function. Of course, rust is not a very good conductor either so you must coat to prevent rust with something that is conductive, not sure what I best.

You always need to step back and think about the ground paths.

In this case the bulb grounds to the reflector. The reflector grounds to the headlamp shell on the steel ring. The swivel bulb at the bottom grounds to the headlamp bar and the head lamp bar grounds through the raised area around the bolts. Which goes down though to the frame.

Paint at one or all those places will make for a poor ground. The mistake of putting the rubber pad between the headlamp bar and the fender only makes the ground worse. During the restoration you need to be sure that you have a full metal contact at each point. With todays modern paints that becomes harder as the paints are hard to clean through and will provide a good insulator.

During the priming stages of my fenders I have been bringing the pad areas at the headlamp bar mount points down to bare steel. I plan on putting some dielectric grease to prevent rust and maintain a good connection at each point. I do not plan on relying on the lock washers to make a ground for me.

On my frame I an trying something. Where the battery ground strap bolts to the cross member I tinned the area with some solder and put tape over the area until I got done finish paint. I have a nice bare area that will not rust where the strap will bolt.

The path to a good car is full of little simple details. It is easy to miss all the details, I know I have missed many.

 

[MikeK]

Mikek, I need to use your headlamp as an example and I do not want you to take offense.

If you look at the inside of Mike's lame you will see he painted the steel ring around the headlamp shell. Not much hope of a good ground. Given the condition of the steel rings I can understand wanting to paint the area, but here is where you have to keep in mind function. Of course, rust is not a very good conductor either so you must coat to prevent rust with something that is conductive, not sure what I best. . . .

Good observation! This was a commercial shell, so it was just dipped from the factory, no nickel. The only original ground on commercial shells was the little tabs that clip the reflector, and the back side of the focus screw against the shell. On commercial shells that screw sits on paint. Those tabs are usually rusted off or bad on commercial shells.

What is not shown are the two tiny #4 x 3/8 pan head sheet metal screws I put through the gasket groove and into the shell rim. The gasket is notched a bit to clear the screw heads. I did that because the tabs were bad, but it will help with the ground path if you do not have a separate wire and your shells or reflectors are coated.