Headlight switch repair

Woodie UK

Woodie UK

Member
6 months ago I replaced the faulty headlight switch in my '56 Crown Vic with one from Larrys.

Worked fine when tested but haven't had the headlights again on until a few days when I noticed the dash lights flickering on an off. When I rotate the knob the lights come on for a moment and then go off again.

There only seems to be a 30 day guarantee on the part so I don't really want to buy another and possibly get the same fault in six months, so was wondering if there is any fix to keep the dash lights permanently illuminated.

I seem to recall a fix whereby you solder the rotating part but I'm not sure how this works. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I'll be using the car a lot during the dark evenings here in Florida and it would be really helpful to actually see the gauges!!!
 
Rotating the knob back & forth a few times should clear it up. It's a normal thing when the switch isn't used regularly.
If you crawl under the dashboard it won't hurt to double check that the wire connectors don't have broken/corroded wires inside and are snug on the switch terminals.

If your headlight switch looks like this one (below) the two terminals marked with yellow arrows are the ones for the instrument panel lights rheostat.
If you connect those two wires / terminals to each other it bypasses the rheostat. It can be done temporarily or semi-permanently with:

1. A double-ended male spade terminal connecting the 2 wires from these terminals directly to each other (not on the switch). Or...
2. Slipping a short jumper wire into the open end of each/both wire connectors before putting them on the switch terminals. Or...
3. Carefully solder a jumper wire between the 2 small buss bars before putting the dash-light wire connectors onto the terminals.

Each of these 'fixes' bypasses the variable resistor and you'll get full brightness all the time. If that's too bright you can experiment with a fixed value resistor in the jumper wire.

Disclaimer:
Check your switch terminals with a volt/ohm meter or test light if it's different than this one.
 

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Back in the 60's when I was just beginning to drive(legally that is) my folks had a car that had the same problem. The solution was to rotate the switch knob back and forth several times. It worked!! He said it knocked the crud off the rheostat wire to make good contact again............dads knew these things back then!!
 
I'd try a shot of electrical contact cleaner. Then work the control back and forth, etc. De-Oxit, even WD-40 should work for this.
 
There is a round porcelain drum with a spring wrapped around it located between the front of the switch mounting plate and the switch housing itself. The problem with these is that the spring and/or the contact (at the top) that touches the spring can get corroded. The Porcelain drum can be removed from the switch so that you can clean the spring and have access to the bottom of the contact to clean it (where it touches the spring). I have used a fine emery cloth to buff the contact and a fine wire brush to clean the spring. But it will then corrode very quickly unless you treat them with something. I have used a little dab of high-dielectric silicone gel that seems to protect from corrosion as well as protect electrical continuity between dissimilar metals. Just squirt a little out of the tube and swipe it on the bottom of the contact and all around the spring. Don't get too generous with it. A little is all you need.
 
Many, many thanks to everybody who responded

I'll try all the fixes as I'm sure one will work.

Thanks again guys.
 
Of course, the one you bought is a Chinese-made reproduction.....
If you or anyone else wants N.O.S. U.S.A. made, I have a couple remaining,
BRAND NEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
mobileparts said:
Of course, the one you bought is a Chinese-made reproduction.....

If you or anyone else wants N.O.S. U.S.A. made, I have a couple remaining,
BRAND NEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

This is the problem, what is going to happen when NOS, take-off and FORD AUTH REPRO is gone...?
 
:)What will happen???
You and I will have passed --- and who knows what the next generation will do??????
If I were a betting man, I'd say "Nothing" -- because the younger generation has no interest.....
But, you have 1 of my NEW U.S.A. made ones -- and you WON'T HAVE TO
WORRY!!!!!!!!!!! while you and I are alive.........:)
 
You know, finding odd parts was difficult years ago. I would hate to have to keep one going today.

Even seventies and eighties parts are becoming scarce or are only available in off-shore might fit-might work.
 
mobileparts said:
:)What will happen???

You and I will have passed --- and who knows what the next generation will do??????

If I were a betting man, I'd say "Nothing" -- because the younger generation has no interest.....
Click to expand...

Oh I know what is going to happen...

30" wheels with baloney skins, fart cans and those cute little wings they put on the deck lid to be able to push them off the road when they break down...
rolling%20laugh.gif
 
Kultulz, yes I saw in your earlier post that it was available that way. You and oldmics, have a lot of knowledge, and I am glad you both are willing to share all of it. Thanks to both of you.
 
Alaska Jim said:
You and oldmics, have a lot of knowledge, and I am glad you both are willing to share all of it. Thanks to both of you.
Click to expand...

oldmics is the guru, I am only on an acute learning curve... :rolleyes:

When I was young ... :( ... , the first thought I had when coming across a '57 was where I could find a 352 or 390. Never got into the Y-Block.

Look at where the engine is at now. Unbelievable!

I think Santa just left. I need to go check under my tree. I asked for a case of cans of compression and smooth idle... :cool:
 
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