Got all my ‘29 parts out for nickel plating with exception of headlight buckets. Plater said removing rivets would create a better result which I can understand. Does anyone have experience using the bolts? Do they hold well enough. Trying to rivet the plates back in would seem to be a very difficult task.
Headlight Rivets vs. Bolts
- Thread starter AYooperA
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I have used threaded rivets on numerous occasions. Much easier to use than rivets.
I especially like using them on small parts and badges where it would be difficult to use a regular rivet, but they work just as well on larger parts.
I especially like using them on small parts and badges where it would be difficult to use a regular rivet, but they work just as well on larger parts.
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Bruce of MN
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How do you keep the bolt from spinning?
Randy in ca
Well-known member
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Have you found some smooth headed ones somewhere that are small enough for attaching things like headlight data plates?
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ModelA29
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
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Have you found some smooth headed ones somewhere that are small enough for attaching things like headlight data plates?
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Restoration Supplies has various size small S/S threaded rivets and nuts along with other small hardware. https://restorationstuff.com/shop/#fb0=41
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
You can get that type at Snyder's, I was referring to the threaded rivets that take a nut.
Thanks for the input regarding the rivet head/bolt type fastener. Definitely the easier way to assemble. Looked into threaded rivet design. But how would you mimic the rivet head on the outside of the headlight. Add a bolt w/rivet head design to threaded insert? Down the rabbit hole I go.
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I sent the Snyders type headlamp bolts to the Cad plater and they looked very close to the original when done . I might have smoothed the heads a little to cut down on the stainless look before plating . The inside has the nut of course . When I installed them I didn't have a problem getting them tightened .
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I would not use a riv-nut. Use the threaded rivets shown in the original post.
rackops
Senior Member
I picked up a pair of headlights and was surprised the rivets were cad plated. Inspecting them, it turns out the previous owner did just that. They look really good and meet the fine point requirements as well.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Basically the answer to your question relies to what your expectations are. The bolts that are offered by vendors are stainless steel, -so they do not look correct. The original rivets were Cadmium plated. The stainless bolts also do not have the correct parabolic shape (-again, if that matters).
I first bought some reproduction rivets for these from Will Cronkrite (I think) about 10-15 years ago but I believe he stopped making them. The next run of them I made them myself out of brass stock on the lathe and then Cad plated them. Those seemed to be close enough that the judges accepted them as originals.
As for installing them, I did not find that to be too difficult. A few drops of CA glue to temporarily hold the bracket to the headlight shell worked well while the rivets were inserted and bucked one at a time. A bucking tool was placed in a bench vise and the rivet head placed onto the bucking tool end. A hammer was used on the inside to pein the rivet into compression.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
The original rivets in the headlight buckets were squeezed, not bucked to avoid denting the buckets. It is not practical to duplicate the manufacturer's riveting squeezing process, so use the threaded rivets.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Bob, the issue with the screws is the head is shaped incorrectly. If someone is just wanting something, then use the screws however if someone is restoring authentically the screws won't cut it.
Brent,
You are probably correct in that the rivet/bolts don't have the exact type/size heads. However, being somewhat anal myself, I have chucked rivets (real rivets) in a drill and using a file and later sandpaper, made the incorrect rivet heads extremely close to the originals I saved for examples (usually brazier heads which are hard to find). It takes some time to grind the heads to the same diameter and height as the original rivets. I don't see why the rivet/bolts couldn't be "sized" the same way, if that is what you want. For nearly all model A people, the rivet/bolts are close enough.
BTW, I had my rivet/bolts cad plated before installing them - I don't know if they were stainless, but the cad plating worked OK.
Rusty Nelson
You are probably correct in that the rivet/bolts don't have the exact type/size heads. However, being somewhat anal myself, I have chucked rivets (real rivets) in a drill and using a file and later sandpaper, made the incorrect rivet heads extremely close to the originals I saved for examples (usually brazier heads which are hard to find). It takes some time to grind the heads to the same diameter and height as the original rivets. I don't see why the rivet/bolts couldn't be "sized" the same way, if that is what you want. For nearly all model A people, the rivet/bolts are close enough.
BTW, I had my rivet/bolts cad plated before installing them - I don't know if they were stainless, but the cad plating worked OK.
Rusty Nelson
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Yes, most definitely you can reshape the head. Im my case, I just made a new one in less time out of Brass on the lathe. I Cad plated them and installed them and they look 100% correct.
Yes, you can Cad plate Stainless. I use the faux Cad unit that Caswell sells.