Headlight Mods

Another thing to keep in mind, if it hasn't already been mentioned: the repro reflectors presently available have two big strikes against them:

1) They have the wrong shape: the parabolic reflector bowl is too shallow (by about 1/4"), which results in a beam pattern quite a bit wider and less bright than the correct Ford shape.

2) They are chrome-plated, which has a reflectivity rating of about 65%. Silver has a reflectivity rating of around 95%, Aluminum between 90 & 95%.

Walt Bratton has been working on having '29-'31 reflectors made to the original Ford print, but they are not ready yet.


So, at this point in time, original reflectors with good silver or Uvira plating are the best bet.
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Bratton's, (301) 829-9880, is working on some correct reflectors but they are not out yet. You might want to call them and/or follow their project here on ford barn. I look forward to reading what they come up with.

Charlie Stephens
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I called this morning about the correct reflectors that Brattons is going to offer. I was that it would be in March that they would be available. Hope the young lady I talked to is right as I sure would like a set. She did not offer a price and sorry but I forgot to ask.
Joe Grobleski
 
The advantage to the Uvira process is that the reflectors are first plated in nickle, then in aluminum (same as modern sealed beams and other high-quality optical reflectors), then sealed under a coating. It is more or less a lifetime deal.[/QUOTE]

After reading this post, I assume the nickel and aluminum process is cheaper. But is the TOTAL package (nickel, aluminum and the Uvira process) cheaper or does it last longer than just re-silvering?

As I said in an earlier post Brattons says they will have theirs for sale in March but the question is will they be made like the original? Remains to be seen.
Joe Grobleski
 
Cape Codder said:
The advantage to the Uvira process is that the reflectors are first plated in nickle, then in aluminum (same as modern sealed beams and other high-quality optical reflectors), then sealed under a coating. It is more or less a lifetime deal.
After reading this post, I assume the nickel and aluminum process is cheaper. But is the TOTAL package (nickel, aluminum and the Uvira process) cheaper or does it last longer than just re-silvering?

As I said in an earlier post Brattons says they will have theirs for sale in March but the question is will they be made like the original? Remains to be seen.
Joe Grobleski
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I don't think Uvira nickle plates the reflectors at their location. I think you have to provide them already nickled. I also remember them being a little on the high side all told as compared to just silver plating.

Remember that the hubble telescope and the newer replacement use aluminimum plating for the mirrors.
 
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All modern lighting and optical relfectors are aluminized; does not blacken like silver.

As for the durability of the Uvira process, there's a chap on the AACA Forums under the handle Ply33, who has owned a nice '33 Plymouth for about 40-some years.

He had his original reflectors done in Uvira over 20 years ago, and the are still "perfect". Granted, he lives in northern California, and his car is garage kept, but it is a driver, and sometimes sees rain.

He is an engineer, and is very thorough with his repairs / restoration activities; he has been a steadfast advocate of the Uvira process for the 15 or so years that I've been participating on I-net car forums...

I believe the total process to wind-up with Uvira is more expensive than plain silver ( there ARE more steps involved ), but the results are far more durable.

I believe Bratton's new & improved reflectors will be aluminized and coated.

I'm ready to spring for a set when they come-in.

That said, I'm hanging-on to the couple of un-cracked original reflectors that I have on hand.
 
Has anyone ever "experimented" with smooth, plate glass, lenses?:confused: (The Dog:cool: asked me to post this, for fear of being labeled, "DUMB") Bill W.
 
I had a 17 TT with the correct plain glass lenses & magneto bulbs.While the lights were bright,there were no prisms to direct the light to where it should be so as not to blind oncoming drivers.
 
columbiA said:
I had a 17 TT with the correct plain glass lenses & magneto bulbs.While the lights were bright,there were no prisms to direct the light to where it should be so as not to blind oncoming drivers.
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Columbia, observation: Saw some modern car?? turn on his lights close to a building, wide, crisp, white rectangle on the wall, a lower rectangle as he dimmed them. When he passed by, behind his "cat eyed" lenses, there was NO reflector, only a small, maybe 2" round black unit! My mind was saying, "I wonder if they come in 6 VOLT? They could fit easily in a Model A headlight, with a plain lens"! Bill W.
 
The reflectors shined up pretty well with the "lamp black" soot and the LED tail lights are fantastic. My overall lighting is fine now, but my big concern now is the load of the headlights.

With my generator turned up all the way(15 -20 amps), l still show negative ( 2-5 amps) on the ammeter when the headlights are on. I am running marker lights up front, but having the LED's out back have cut down on the overall load when the brakes and turn signals are on. Is it normal that the headlights draw almost 20 amps by themselves? I'm not exactly sure which bulbs l have in the at the moment but will check that tomorrow.
 
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