Headlight conduits

coupe1942

coupe1942

Senior Member
I just opened up a brand new pair of headlight conduits with the horn conduit included. It has been sitting inside a plastic bin for a couple of months and has not been damaged there when stored. However, when I inserted the new wiring harness into it at the driver's side loom, the thing immediately spun open on me and opened up at one of the spirals near the headlight bucket. Grrrrr....

Any rate, from what I have seen in looking at various vendors, it appears that they all get them from the same place. That is an assumption on my part, but none look any different to me to indicate otherwise and the pricing seems to be the same anywhere.

Is there a specific vendor that sells a better quality conduit for headlights or is my assumption correct and you simply have to chance whatever you get?

I hate to put a black plastic spiraled loom about the conduit to at least do something with the part instead of just trashing it. Is there any way to repair the loom or is it not worth the effort?

It was not caused by any tension applied or by bending or stretching it during assembly to the headlight bucket.

What causes this problem? Any tips so it does not happen when I get the spare set ordered in?

Thanks........
 

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Well there are different ones available from brattons.. 17.00 cheapos or 32.00. Real stainless

What did u buy????
 
It has been too long ago since I had purchased them so I don't recall the cost or just which vendor I used, since I use so many different vendors. I had tossed the original plastic wrap and put them into my plastic storage bin until needed.

I am cheap enough that I likely ordered the cheapie ones to begin with.

I notice that at both Bert's and Bratton's, they offer a pair of fabric covered headlight conduits that were made for the AA's and pickups. Are they of any better quality than the cheapie ones? My truck is not a show piece oor high points vehicle and is just a daily driver. The conduits I replaced were in bad repair as well and were likely repop cheapies, too. I simply replaced them with what i had ordered. However, if the black loom fabric ones are of a good quality, I don't mind purchasing a new pair of them. The stainless look or chrome is not all all that important to me, but I do want something that does not unwrap and fall apart from the get go. Anyone know if the quality of those conduits is good or not? Since that is what supposedly was original for the pickups and the AA's, I would not mind going that route if they are of a better quality in construction and durability.

Thanks .
 
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If your radiator shell is stainless, I'd go for the stainless conduits, even though they are more expensive. If your shell is painted, then go with whatever.
 
My '29 conduits are BEAUTIFUL, BUT, they're really LONG & drape down nicely for about 8 inches, inside the shell. I "adjusted" the wiring & I LIKE them!
"Maybe" someone bought the conduit in bulk & didn't cut it???
Bill Happy
 
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Consider buying some originals, I see them all the time in the Flea Markets. 30-31's are stainless and can be polished out just like new. Put one at a time on a dowel and buff them on a buffing wheel without the ferrels. Buff the ferrels separately using the same dowel. Use a stainless buffing stick on the wheel. If you find some conduits missing the ferrels, then buy some stainless ones from the vendors. I think A an L has the stainless ones. I sell original ones in the Flea Market for $20 or $25 a set. The 28-29 ones are a different length, made of brass, and are nickle plated. When I find these, I buff them the same on a buffing wheel then send them to the plater. Of course these will be more expensive. You might want to go to Chicache Flea market which is not that far from you and you will find good original Model A parts for you car.
 
I do plan to hit Chickasha, but it is a bit away and I was hoping to get the truck on the road again sooner. No real problem as, even though broken, I can still hook up my wiring and make things work temporarily. I hope to hit Chickasha and Decatur both when the swaps happen there.
 
That would be nice, 700rpm, if only everything sold for Model A's had a reliable quality rating sticker on it, but just because something costs more does not always signify quality.
Unfortunately, not everything does. :-(
 
The cheaper headlight conduits are 1/2" which makes it tough to get the wires in.. Maybe that's why it broke who knows
The better set is 9/16" which is also the proper diameter.. The horn conduits are all 1/2"
 
coupe1942 said:
That would be nice, 700rpm, if only everything sold for Model A's had a reliable quality rating sticker on it, but just because something costs more does not always signify quality.
Unfortunately, not everything does. :-(
Click to expand...

Yeah, my comment was too general. For us Model A guys, I should have said buy from suppliers of known quality, and buy once. Bratton's, Snyder's, Bert's, Renner's, Stipe, for example. Or ask here for recommendations.

And I would argue that when you buy cheap, you are almost assured that the quality will be poor. I learned that lesson the hard way, a long time ago.

“It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When
you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay
too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you
bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The
common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a
lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well
to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will
have enough to pay for something better.” ― John Ruskin
 
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