Headlight Adjustment made easy

Willie Krash

Willie Krash

Well-known member
I was reading an old article by Walt Langill re headlights.
His adjustment of headlights is quite simple. Use a straight 2X4 and put across the lights and make them parallel to the 2x4. Make sure the car is level and use a carpenters spirit level on each headlight face and cocked them down until they are 1/2 bubble off of plumb or 1/2 bubble on the level.
That's it.

Now part two. Some time back I adjusted mine by the Ford book sort of..Blue tape on an old warehouse wall in the middle of the night, driving around and readjusted.

I grew tired of it all and just drove on dark roads and found the sweet spot. With my new Brattons reflectors I was quite amazed. Not bad at all.

So I thought let's see if the article conforms to my sweet spot. Well the two headlights were within 1/4" of being parallel (something I did knowingly) and both lights were dead on....1/2 bubble off plumb. So pun intended that was my after the fact blind test.

H/T to Marshall Lewis for the idea and thank you Rick Black for the article.
I did do a quick search so if this has been addressed sorry, but it still is good info.
 
I've used this same approach, except instead of using a 2X4, I just used my 48" carpenter's level as a straight edge to get the lights parallel to each other. Used the same level to adjust the vertical alignment. Hadn't seen the article, just used common sense. Glad to have written confirmation. Thanks Mike!
 
I'm so glad I saw this thread. I have to adjust the headlights on my A. A friend of mine, who owns a '31 coupe, told me to shine the lights on the garage door and adjust them. I know that works for modern cars, but I like the idea of using my 4' carpenter's level instead. It is more precise than eyeballing the adjustment. This information means I can adjust the headlights without even taking the car out of the garage!! :) Thanks! :)
 
CarlG said:
If you do it in your garage, there's a pretty good chance it will be "near" level.
Click to expand...

Actually not always, most houses being built today have a garage floor that is sloped 1/8" to 1/4" per foot, towards the floor for drainage.

But great information, I will use it on my cars.
 
whirnot said:
Actually not always, most houses being built today have a garage floor that is sloped 1/8" to 1/4" per foot, towards the floor (door?) for drainage.

But great information, I will use it on my cars.
Click to expand...
That's why I said "near" level. If that's a concern, you can always compensate for that by using a piece of 1X under the wheels closest to the door.
 
John/CT said:
Could you please source the Walt Langill article?
Click to expand...

John,
One of our club members scanned some material and put it into PDF files. It was a collection of material one of our members compiled over the years and has since passed away. It is a single page. I could send you the PDF.
Mike
 
I wouldn't worry about the level spot being quite level as the roads you drive on won't be level either. LOL

Seriously, that sounds like a good way to get them right.

Ted
 
Older thread, but very happy to find in the search results...

No wonder my headlights where terrible...pointing in different directions with one in the weeds and one in the trees. So much for P.O. saying they were good.

Using the 4 foot and short levels made it easy to do in the garage, so no searching for a warehouse area and adjusting in the dark.

For longer drives, I still plan to add driving lights.
 
I was asked to help a coworker on his project, he is a finicky person! I had to go get some parts and when I got back he had his level out. I said I was wondering when you where going to level things out! He said it doesn’t look right but the level says different. I stepped back and told him when it was level. Nowadays I maybe half a bubble off ! :-)
 
Big Hammer,
Dog:cool: here, How in the WORLD kin Ol' Bill kjust headlites??? He's a BUBBLE & a HALF off, jist standing still:D:D
SA Buster T.:cool:
 
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