Head studs
- Thread starter cw253748
- Start date
George Miller
Well-known member
That is right, if they are bottom out it can **** the stud to one side. That will make the head harder to get on and off. Some think they will hold more if they are bottomed out but they won't.
Jim Brierley
Well-known member
I recommend screwing them in snug, then backing them off 1/4 turn, this lets them align themselves but still gives maximum thread contact. Always use anti-seize on the threads in the block and lube the upper threads. Dry nuts are good hygiene but not so good for fasteners.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Everyone seems to have their preferred method for doing specific tasks, including stud install. My question to you when reading of this stud install method is...how does this method work when the bottom of the stud hole has been opened up (busted thru to water as some are with most blocks I've seen/used) ?
I would think that 'backing off one full thread' method would facilitate more of a water leak on a stud where casting goes thru to water ?
Growley bear
Well-known member
Some guys prefer head bolts to nuts/studs.
Mark DeRoseau
Member
Does anyone sell head bolts for a model a. Yes, I know ARP prob has a set that will work...... But I mean a "A" supplier? I've never seen an A with bolts.
Growley bear
Well-known member
As far as I know the guys with bolts made their own kits and they are not from the hardware store. Caterpillar tractor used to sell some of the best heat treated bolts on the market.
katy
Well-known member
I've heard of guys using the bolts from the later (49 & up) flathead V-8s. You'd have to verify the length.
I once had a problem w/the bolts on a 300 CI Ford 6 cylinder stretching, so I replaced them w grade 8 bolts w/washers, (from a bolt store). No more head gasket problems w/that engine.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey Mark,
ARP is a source that I've known guys to use for such bolt use in A/B engines.
This might be a 'fine' point to consider, but in my mind an important one.
Seems to be that Fords' engineering / studs/nuts use, was focused on the TORQUE being spread between the threads of the stud in block, but mostly on the threads on the nut end of stud.
Seems that use of bolts would place entire focus of torque on the threads in block. I'd like to see results of how many block threads are pulled/stripped by bolt use vs stud use.
Else why wouldn't Ford have just use 'simpler' bolt system, instead of stud/nut system ?
wensum
Senior Member
Having discovered that standard head studs were too short for my high compression head, I had to get a set of high tensile studs made locally. Unfortunately only metric size stock is available, so the studs had to be completely machined from a slightly larger size.
Interestingly, these fitted more accurately than those supplied and all were perfectly perpendicular when installed making fitting of the head very simple. I can't recall whether they bottomed out or not, but I suspect they did.
Interestingly, these fitted more accurately than those supplied and all were perfectly perpendicular when installed making fitting of the head very simple. I can't recall whether they bottomed out or not, but I suspect they did.
Growley bear
Well-known member
Ditto; No sense trying to reinvent the Model A; Henry had a reason for designing and manufacturing the nut/stud system/