Head Studs

2

29As

Junior Member
Installing all new head studs.

Q. Should they be (somehow) torqued down into the block and how does one do this?
Q. Should I apply something onto the threads going into the block such as anti-seize, drop of oil, ??? (if anything)?

Thanks.
 
I put never seeze on the threads, screw them in the block and just snub the up a little with a pair of plyers, no need to torque them. Walt
 
We just replaced stubs in a bloack a few weeks back, we used Les Andrews book, very easy to do and the end result looks factory perfect!
 
In my opinion anti-seize won't hurt a thing, and can be very helpful in the future to prevent a stud from sticking and breaking off when trying to remove.

I do agree head studs do not need to be torqued into block; just finger tight to slight snugging with a pliers.
 
Anti-seize and finger tight. Run a bottoming tap into each hole first, and blow it out with compressed air. Leaving them slightly loose allows them to align themselves when putting the gasket and head on.
 
So i take it that the head studs do not go into any water jackets on the model a ? Sorry never seen one with the head off and couldnt find it in the search index. Only experience ive had with head studs have been with the sbc blower motor. I used the arp junk sealant and it leaked when i fired it up. So i had the pleasure of taking each one out, one at a time in torque sequence, putting permatex 2 on em, and running them back down . I was told to bottom them out then back them off just a little.
 
The 2 studs for the water outlet and the 1 for the ignition should be run down till they stop, not torqued. The rest should be run in till there is 2 threads above 2.750". Oil, never-seize or, non permanent lock-tite, your choice.
 
insomniacshotrods said:
So i take it that the head studs do not go into any water jackets on the model a ? Sorry never seen one with the head off and couldnt find it in the search index. Only experience ive had with head studs have been with the sbc blower motor. I used the arp junk sealant and it leaked when i fired it up. So i had the pleasure of taking each one out, one at a time in torque sequence, putting permatex 2 on em, and running them back down . I was told to bottom them out then back them off just a little.
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The Model A stud holes are blind so no water. However after 75 plus years they do rot out. Occasionally we'll find one that is porous or someone has attempted to remove a broken thread and drilled through.

It doesn't hurt using number 2 Permatex or if it's drilled through and you can't repair it use number 1 .

The ARP studs you mentioned are supposed to be installed finger tight no more.
 
When I replaced my engine head gasket last year I removed all the old studs with a stud removal tool and then cleaned off the top of each piston and the engine deck itself. Then I chased the threads on each threaded hole several times until the tap showed no trash then installed each new stud with a dab of never seize on the treads...just snugged up the studs after they bottomed out...I had a stud break off a couple of years ago and ended up having to pull the engine so I'm determined not to go through that again...
 
It may not be the head stud holes, but isn't there some place where the proper tap used at the factory is one with less clearance and the tap from Ace is too loose with NOS studs? I don't know if this applies to modern studs.
 
Bruce of MN said:
It may not be the head stud holes, but isn't there some place where the proper tap used at the factory is one with less clearance and the tap from Ace is too loose with NOS studs? I don't know if this applies to modern studs.
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Yes, taps come in difference tolerances. The most common sold are "loose" H-3.
fig9.gif
 
Mike V. Florida,
I have been searching for the undersize taps to chase threads in blocks. Do you know a source for them? One that would allow the purchase of a few at a time.

Thanks Mike!

Dave in MN
 
Dave in MN said:
Mike V. Florida,
I have been searching for the undersize taps to chase threads in blocks. Do you know a source for them? One that would allow the purchase of a few at a time.

Thanks Mike!

Dave in MN
Click to expand...

Hey Dave,
I just removed the 14 studs from my engine. I went to a flathead rebuilder machinist friend to discuss this very same topic (stud/thread). He gave me a tutorial and proper cleanout tool. I then asked him about efficacy/correctness of using an old way of doing same thread chasing job , i.e.- take a good used bolt (grade 8 is what I use) and cut four slots equally spaced on bolt ends up thru half inch of threads to clean and NOT damage block threads. He responded that that would do as good a job as his store bought special chaser....FYI
 
Tightening the head studs using double nutting is pain in the ... Today I ended up with a better way.
Use a spare head stud. Screw it into a head nut halfway. Then screw this assembly on the stud you want to put in, using the remaining half of the nut. Use a wrench to gently screw the stud into its hole.
Next remove the assembly. Much more simple than dubble nutting
 
Don't forget that one of the head studs is slightly higher to accomodate the thickness of the ignition switch cable clamp (which was factory installed) if you plan on using one. Personally I don't want to mess with a head bolt when performing maintenance on the distributer. Your choice. Ed
 
Bruce of MN said:
It may not be the head stud holes, but isn't there some place where the proper tap used at the factory is one with less clearance and the tap from Ace is too loose with NOS studs? I don't know if this applies to modern studs.
Click to expand...

Yes most retap with the wrong class thread, making the suds loose in the block.
better way is cut a slot in threads of a old stud use, that to clean the threads.
 
George Miller said:
Yes most retap with the wrong class thread, making the suds loose in the block.
better way is cut a slot in threads of a old stud use, that to clean the threads.
Click to expand...

I've recently gone through the same thing after someone chased the threads in the diff (the ones for the bolts holding the trunpets on). They leaked so much, I could end up with an empty diff without moving the car!:eek:Many tapped holes have been ruined this way over the years and it is still happening. If tighter tolerance taps were available, maybe some would be saved. I've been usung the "grooves in an old stud" for 50 years. Sometimes, I even heat the stud to cherry red, quench it in oil, then cut the grooves.
 
Synchro909 said:
I've recently gone through the same thing after someone chased the threads in the diff (the ones for the bolts holding the trunpets on). They leaked so much, I could end up with an empty diff without moving the car!:eek:Many tapped holes have been ruined this way over the years and it is still happening. If tighter tolerance taps were available, maybe some would be saved. I've been usung the "grooves in an old stud" for 50 years. Sometimes, I even heat the stud to cherry red, quench it in oil, then cut the grooves.
Click to expand...

Heating the stud to cherry red and quenching shrinks the metal ! I've done this when working sheet metal, nice trick Synchro, Thanks for the tip!
 
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