Head Studs

I put never sieze on the stud threads that enter the block threads and snug the studs up with pliers . I don't try torqueing the studs . I torque the head nuts to 55 foot lbs .
 
Heating and quenching can work good for shrinking sheet metal body parts. Heating and quenching hardenes metal and can make metal brittle. Head studs are pretty easy to break even if not heated and quenched . No harm meant , I just hope that you don't have the bad luck of wringing off a hardened stud in the block .
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Heating and quenching can work good for shrinking sheet metal body parts. Heating and quenching hardenes metal and can make metal brittle. Head studs are pretty easy to break even if not heated and quenched . No harm meant , I just hope that you don't have the bad luck of wringing off a hardened stud in the block .
Click to expand...

Purdy, we seems to be talking at crossed purposes and no harm taken. I harden the studs when I cut grooves in them to use to clean out a thread. I have never even gone close to putting enough tension on the stud while cleaning out a hole to break it.
I do not harden them prior to using them to hold down the head.
You're right about how difficult it would be if I were to break one in the block but a little care prevents it.
 
Some how I must have been confused and looked over the part about using them to chase threads . I thought you planned to use them for head studs . I've had my share of wrung off head studs , over the years . Sorry for the mix up .
 
Many times the head is very difficult to remove because the studs are rusted over their entire length because water had leaked into the area between the stud and head.


This problem can be prevented if antifreeze is used in cooling system.

This is just one of the ways that water in cooling system damages parts!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top