head stud removal

Lawrie

Lawrie

Well-known member
I had a good day today , got 47 of the head studs out of a C69A block, only one snapped off flush.
What I did was to cut them all off about 1/2 inch above the block with a 4in cutoff wheel on the angle grinder, then get a pile of old head nuts, drill them out to 7/16 and tig weld them onto the studs, after they cool, used a 1/2 drive air impact gun on the low setting, all but the one came out, this is, as any one who knows ,usually a real pain of a job, so tomorrow only one to drill and tap out.
Lawrie
 
Tig weld a washer to the broke off one, then weld a nut to the washer, then the piece of the stud will come out
 
Does anyone here have experience using a magnetic base drill press to drill out the broken piece of stud while staying on center?
 
Last edited:
JM 35 Sedan said:
Has anyone considered using a magnetic base drill press to drill out the broken piece of stud while staying on center?
Click to expand...

That would work, but there is always the chance of messing up the block. The weld on a nut method works so well and is fairly easy, IMO it would be difficult to try a different approach. The heat from the welding seems to be a major factor in the success rate. But if all else fails, then drilling might be the way to go, we used the magnetic based drills a lot when I worked in tooling and the jig shop.
 
Drill 1/8 inch hole through center of broken stud then blow out with gas torch. Too easy & never hurts threads in block. Used this method hundreds of times over the many years in many broken stud/bolt situations. Will not work in blind hole. Even works in aluminum.
Cheers
Tony
 
Tig welding the washer and nut does work well. You really need a foot pedal so you can hang around on the puddle for a extended time to get a good heat sink. While cooling down quench the weld with a candle and leave it alone until it has cooled off and you can touch it with your hand.Now try to remove it. Have done dozens and haven't failed so far in 30+ tig welding. The quench can be repeated during the cool down.Hope this helps. I have done many sizes 6/32 up to 3/4"steel and aluminum.


R
 
KiWinUS said:
Drill 1/8 inch hole through center of broken stud then blow out with gas torch. Too easy & never hurts threads in block. Used this method hundreds of times over the many years in many broken stud/bolt situations. Will not work in blind hole. Even works in aluminum.
Cheers
Tony
Click to expand...

This works great but pay attention to the blind hole warning!

Dale
 
I once created a thick aluminum drill guide for use on a broken exhaust stud while the engine was still in the car. Using an offset hand drill starting with a small bit, removing and enlarging the drill guide hole to finish the job. On the last pass, the broken stud threads spiraled out on the drill bit.

The weld-on nut method is demonstrated in this link:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm
 
Kurt in NJ said:
It works so good it's easier to break the studs off than working for days worrying them out
Click to expand...

Exactly how I feel & that is why I like my method. I have tried most every way possible. All can still have their headaches like Lawrie has found with his last bolt. My method is no preping nuts. No welding. Just blow them babies out. Too easy & quick.
Cheers
Tony
 
When you say "blow out with a gas torch" are you talking about using a cutting head or are you suggesting an air nozzle after heating the remaining stud to the point of melting? Seems like a cutting torch would have a high probability of ruining the block. Could you describe this operation in detail?
 
Got the last one out this morning,I drilled it with a pilot drilll out the the root die of the thread, then picked out the remainder of the stud ,came out great but took as long as getting the bother 47 out,
Lawrie
 
Last edited:
The former owner of an auto parts store I trade at swore by using a reverse drill bill to drill out broken bolts. Said the reverse bill would assist in spinning the broken bolt out. Not sure if it would work on a head bolt stuck in a flathead but I kind of doubt it.
 
deuce_roadster said:
When you say "blow out with a gas torch" are you talking about using a cutting head or are you suggesting an air nozzle after heating the remaining stud to the point of melting? Seems like a cutting torch would have a high probability of ruining the block. Could you describe this operation in detail?
Click to expand...

Okay I will do my best to explain but must say plain old years of experience doing this is proof in the puddin for me. A liberal coating of Howes penetrant first and let it do its job as long as I can. I have tried about all penetrants & this is the best in my opinion.
I use a stud extractor next & if studs don’t come out I keep pulling until studs break. Typically close to deck level. I then center punch broken stud. Now drill with 1/8 drill all way through. Now time for the gas torch with cutting attachment. I do this outside when possible to avoid hot splatter in my shop for obvious reasons. Now fire up cutting torch & set it as you would to cut. Now put heat to broken stud. You will see due to the mass of stud versus mass of block stud heats up red quickly with no sign of red to block or threads. Pull lever for oxygen & proceed to blow molten stud out of threaded hole. You will see that threads do not even get any color in them so consequently remain untouched by gas cutting torch. You will see (use correct color shield so you can see what your doing.) once all remains of stud are gone, you will clearly see. Let cool & use thread chaser to final clean. In over 40 years of using this method I have never had an issue or damaged threads beyond their integrity prior to gas torch.
Hope this helps @ I will gladly answer any questions. If you have any experience with a gas cutting torch you will see how easy & quick with zero issues this is.
Cheers
Tony
 
Tony.
I will bow to your years of experience.
And on a bad block will try it out.
I am paranoid about buggering up the blocks as they Are the thing to save.
I used to drill and muck around and sometimes just run a drill through and tap them 12mm, then make the studs to suit, BUT a big job.
Now what about that nos 2.399 crank,LOL,I could sure put that to good use, Or I could send you a set of nos std flanged rod bearings.
How are you handling the virus thing, we are lucky up here no virus got here.
Take care .

Lawrie
 
Add the crayon trick noted above to welding the nut to the broken stud. When the nut and stud cools, it sucks the parafin from the crayon into the threads and helps a lot.


If you use the stud puller, heat the stud 1st and apply the crayon and let it cool and then twist away.


Seems kinda stupid at 1st, but it works for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top