Head Stud Removal

1955cj5

1955cj5

Well-known member
I've read about cutting the studs down to about 1" showing, protecting the block surface...I've drilled a hole to fit over the stud in a piece of 18ga sheet metal...
then welding an appropriately sized nut to the exposed stud, and then try to loosen it when the weld is solid but before the stud cools completely..

Is that all correct? Is there some step I'm missing..? I have a MIG welder.....

Will it work? Only two studs to go....

(I already broke one off after days of soaking, heating, and using a stud puller..finally got it out with no damage but I sure don't want to do that again!)

Thanks,

Randy
 
Sorry 1955cj5 I hope you don't mind if I hi-jack your Thread but it right up my alley. I have been trying for 2 months to drill out three studs. I think I have ruined about 4 1/4in drills and 4 23/64 drills now two of them have easyouts broke of in them. They all broke off right at the top of block. Does anyone have any suggestion on how to get them out. Richard/Ca Help:o
 
Use a Dremel with a diamond grinding bit to grind away the broken easy out. I used the same to remove a broken drill bit once.

When I use the welded washer, welded nut method, I let the stud cool to touch before the next step. Those couple of heat/cool cycles have always worked for me, if not on the first try, at least on the second try.
 
Richard/CA, Once you break an "Easy Out" you will not be able to drill it as the Easy Out is harder than the drill bit.

You may have to contact a removal service. There are several in Southern California. Look for one that uses an Electrical Discharge Machine (EDM), also known as an Electron Drill. They can remove the bolt/easy out without damage to the block or threads.

Here's one;
http://www.brokentap.com/index.html

May be one closer to your location.
 
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I have removed many studs by the method you outline. I TIG weld them and as soon as I can, I use a 1/2 in. impact on a very low setting to back the stud out. I just allow the impact to rattle a bit and soon you will see the stud start to back out. If it does not want to come all the way out or wants to turn just a little, just put some penetrant on it and rattle it back in the block and then reverse and forward a few times and it will usually come right out.

I think the key is to use the impact on a very low setting and just let it rattle. Also, start with the impact as soon as the nut is welded while it is still hot.

I have also removed studs from many flat heads this way and have yet to break one off.

I use a TIG but a wire feed on the correct setting should also work. Just be sure you have enough heat.

This is the way I do it.

Chris W.
 
On those broken off easy outs, find some one with an EDM machine they can blast them
out. (its an electric carbon process that burns them out)
I had a friend with one and he save out asses a couple of times.
 
The one I have is the cam action tool...not Snap-on though....it worked fine for most of the studs but snapped the recent one off clean....

I also broke off a not so "easy out" in the stud, and as Tom indicated, a Dremel with a diamond grinding bit is the only thing that would touch it....I did buy some carbide tipped drill bits and they cut a little but it was a long process...

I used telescoping brass tubing to make a bushing so i could use the head as a drill guide, then picked out the remaining thread pieces....the brass isn't the best but it holds up for one or two drilling cycles....
 
Thank you all for your advice. I will see if i can find a welder with a EDM machine. I have heard of that but never seen it. And Thank you again 1955cj5.
 
Well, I was 50% successful.....I tried twice on the stubborn one and now the machinist will need to use his mill to remove it...it's now about 1/16 below the level of the deck...

The other one came out nicely though...used a rattle gun on low and just let it rattle until it came out.....

Maybe the first one had already been weakened by me trying the stud puller...

The welding system is a good technique, and not as difficult as it may sound...
 

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1/16" below the deck is no problem. You could even drill down a 1/4" with a 1/4" bit, so the weld sinks in and heats the stud as it fills the hole with weld, then shrinks the stud as it cools. I'd give it another try.
 
OK...I'll try it again....I'll drill it a little, use another washer, and once the hole is filled and the washer attached, I'll attach another nut...Sound right?
 
1955cj5 said:
OK...I'll try it again....I'll drill it a little, use another washer, and once the hole is filled and the washer attached, I'll attach another nut...Sound right?
Click to expand...

Yes.
My MIG is only a 125 amp 110 volt Lincoln, but it's worked fine for stud removal like this. I try to get the broken as stud hot as possible with the weld. That way it should shrink more as it cools.:)

I haven't tried the wax method, but heating the stud, then letting wax touch the stud and flow into the threads is said to work well for easing the removal (before the break).
 
Thank for the help Tom, I'll let you know how it turns out..I have a Miller 140 110volt so it is similar to yours.

I tried penetrating oil for about a week while I did other things....heated the studs repeatedly and also tried the wax...

I'll give it heck with the welder and see how it turns out! Only one partial stud to go....
 
I am currently working on a car that has 2 broken studs and the motor is still in the car. we broke and easy out and used a dental carbide arbor to drill it out. Not easy but we got it out. Still working on the studs. I have done the washer method in a motor out of the car. It took several attempts but it finally gave way.
 
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If at first you do not succeed........try try try try try try again...

Thanks for the encouragement Tom..!
 

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TinCup said:
Good Job!
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I wasn't going to let it get the best of me!

And, the last time I used the box-end as in the picture instead of the rattle gun...I worked it back and forth repeatedly and it started to move and then eventually came out....
 
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