Head/Stud Removal with Head on!

By applying torque to the very top end of the stud you are taking a big chance on breaking it off.....or if you mess up the threads in either case, will have to remove the head to repair the damage you do.
 
Take a head nut and cut it lenght-wise with a hack saw. Cut it thru to the center, screw it on the stud then take your vice grips and clamp them tightly on the nut, make sure the slot in the nut is not against the jaws . This allows a 360 degree grip or force on the stud. You should be able to exert a lot of force to remove the stud without damaging it.
This has worked for me.
 
I would save your money Joop and do the weld and tap. Maybe add a little penetrating oil and let it soak first. Heat from the weld should help it loose its death grip in the block.
MarkG
 
Thats the set up there bruce, those work very well the only better one on a long stud that you have room to grip the shank is the earlier pictured on that wedges the stud, those can be bought at Sears, but with a head on the thread grip or a easy try would try what Leon has suggested that won't tighten nearly as well as the Snap on but worth a shot, soaking the stud with somethign won't hurt either in case it is stuck in the head, and neither one of these methods will ruin the threads.
 
After driving the car for 30 miles this morning came home and tried Leon's method.

No success it did not move.
The problem I have is that removing a back stud so close to the firewall that there is not much room to turn.
 
Joop: I was under the impression that that special bolt mounted more towards the middle than at the back??
Paul in CT
 
Have seen some pictures and talked to people and they told me it is the right rear one.

PS. Someone offered me to use his Snap-On set and will try that next.
 
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Bruce Lancaster said:
Here is a link to the set: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1247&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Expensive at $125, but worth it as a mental health measure. If you order from the spare parts list, you can get just the Ford head stud one for under a hundred.
Click to expand...

Have to agree with Bruce here, having spent all my working life in the heavy equipment trade on earthmoving equipment, these are the best on the market and always achieve a great result, I have seen many other tools used with varied success rates, these are by far the best extraction tool period.
 
Joop said:
Have seen some pictures and talked to people and they told me it is the right rear one.

PS. Someone offered me to use his Snap-On set and will try that next.
Click to expand...

When I got my A there was one of those studs, minus the gauge, on my car. The stud was in the drivers side of the block closest to the firewall.
 
Try going to a reliable machine shop. They should have a stud removal tool that cinches on the top threads with a sleeve that uses a 1/2 breaker bar to remove the stud. I was able to borrow one from a local machine shop recently. It worked like a charm. Give it a try.
Rick in Verdi
 
Curiosity question. Would the "Red Ball" Temperature thingee give you temperature of the metal in the block vs give temperature of the water inside the block. Ideally the bottom of the holle where the stud goes has a bottom in it and water cant get to the hole. Inquiring minds want to know. ken
 
the collet works best, but not always with the head on. I recently worked on the same type of temp gauge and found that the sending unit stud comes out of the hex stock . The special stud has a hole drilled in it. I don't know if it was supposed to be filled with fluid or just remain as air filled. But, by removing it, we were able to put the hex stock with the sensor bulb on top of a grade 8 stud. Since his gauge does not work in either case, I do not know how it affected the sensing, but it looks right.
 
Joop:
Try going to a reputable machine shop. They should have a stud remover which clamps (without damaging the threads) down over the threads and then you use a hammer etc to back it out much as an impact driver that you can buy at Sears. At least that is what I was able to "borrow" from a machine shop here in Reno. Worked beautifully.
Hope this helps
Rick Jensen
 
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