Head sealing.
- Thread starter Terry NJ
- Start date
Randini509
Member
My copper seal looked the same on both sides, i just made sure to see how all the holes lined up and what way i needed to put it on. Then i sprayed both sides of the gasket with copper gasket spray gave it about 5 minutes to tack up and slapped it on. Then follwed torque requirements. Sealed 100% no leaks.
http://home.roadrunner.com/~franzenfamily/ford_head_diagram.bmp
http://home.roadrunner.com/~franzenfamily/ford_head_diagram.bmp
Last edited:
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
If your gasket has a rolled edge, the rolled edge should go up. The reason is if it were to mark a serface it is easier to mill a head then a block.
Spray both sides.
Charles Coe
Senior Member
I would use the copper spray rather than the permatex type sealer on a head gasket.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
While the permatex-aviation type of sealer should work OK, I agree with Charles and have always used copper coat on both sides. I don't know if wally world sells it, but most any auto parts store should have it.
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
i had the seam which i put up. i too used the copper spray stuff and worked like a charm. ive used that stuff on "modern" (by that i mean 33 year ol stuff) and worked great on that headgasket too.
Special Coupe Frank
Well-known member
I would recommend the permatex Copper "Spray-a-Gasket" - a few light coats on each side, then assemble.
Has always worked well for me.
Also, make sure all stud holes are clear of debris and crud, and chased to the bottom, and that all the studs seat.
Take extra care with the stud that secures the ignition cable clamp ( #8 ?): if the stud is too long for whatever style clamp you're using ( or none at all), the nut will bottom on the threads before it clamps the head adequately, and the gasket will fail between # 3 & # 4 cylinders...
Good luck !
SC Frank
Has always worked well for me.
Also, make sure all stud holes are clear of debris and crud, and chased to the bottom, and that all the studs seat.
Take extra care with the stud that secures the ignition cable clamp ( #8 ?): if the stud is too long for whatever style clamp you're using ( or none at all), the nut will bottom on the threads before it clamps the head adequately, and the gasket will fail between # 3 & # 4 cylinders...
Good luck !
SC Frank
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
I used Hylomar the second and third time I used my headgasket ---if you use something too much like glue it will be hard to clean off the next time --I just wiped the gasket off with a rag soaked in carb cleaner and reapplied Hylomar gasket dressing
Put the head on without the gasket, check that it goes all the way tight to the block with a feeler gauge, take the head back off and see if it left debris behind on the gasket surfaces ---many engines I have taken apart have had little mounds of debris around the studs, and many small dents in the gasket around the studs from debris ---when the gasket is pushed over the studs debris go onto the block, then the head is pushed over the studs and the studs clean debris from the bolt holes to lay on the gasket
Put the head on without the gasket, check that it goes all the way tight to the block with a feeler gauge, take the head back off and see if it left debris behind on the gasket surfaces ---many engines I have taken apart have had little mounds of debris around the studs, and many small dents in the gasket around the studs from debris ---when the gasket is pushed over the studs debris go onto the block, then the head is pushed over the studs and the studs clean debris from the bolt holes to lay on the gasket
Terry NJ
Well-known member
Kurt, Very good points! Those little "Dents" have always concerned me but I always wrote them off as just part of the mechanics of engines and since I don't have "clean room" abilities, the heck with it! However, It's good to see your concerns are the concerns of others too. The block was totally cleaned and new mains were poured. I've replaced the studs and I put them in with Never Seize and some of the Never Seize bunched up around the base of the stud. The head was ground .030 and the surface is new.
The studs themselves were turned and the head locating surface was filed to remove any interfering burrs. I cleaned the threads ( 14 & 20 ) with an adjustable die, that was opened not to cut the thread. The studs went with a minimum of force. Then I put Never Seize on the lower part of the stud to help with making sure that any and all torque applied, will be compressive and not just over coming thread resistance. BTW what is Hylomar?
Terry
The studs themselves were turned and the head locating surface was filed to remove any interfering burrs. I cleaned the threads ( 14 & 20 ) with an adjustable die, that was opened not to cut the thread. The studs went with a minimum of force. Then I put Never Seize on the lower part of the stud to help with making sure that any and all torque applied, will be compressive and not just over coming thread resistance. BTW what is Hylomar?
Terry