Head light switch '54

[JohnSunliner]

There must be a trick to pulling the head light switch out? I need to get at the wire connections but can not figure out how to unscrew the switch. It looks like the Bessel may screw out but the knob is bigger and doesn't.

 

[Ole Don]

Unhook the battery. Pull the switch to ON. At the top of the switch near the rear, down between the screw / wire connections, is a button. Press in and pull out the knob. The chrome bezel has a screw driver slot. I made an aluminum driver to fit the slot so as to not scar the chrome. From behind, hold the working part of the switch firm in the dash, and press the bezel in against spring pressure and turn 1/4 turn anti clockwise. Remove the switch and catch the spring. Its really easier than I make it sound.

 

[JohnSunliner]

Don, Thank you very much! I would have never figured this out on my own.
An interesting aside, before I converted to 12volts the head lights were stuck ON, all I could do was disconnect the battery. It will be interesting to see what I find when I get it out.
John

 

[Ole Don]

I had a 54 on the road for eleven years. I needed a new headlight switch. I found one at a swap meet in an original Ford box. It was no good. I ran across more NOS bad switches for the 54. I used an aftermarket switch with no trouble for years. The parts supply system seems filled with bad NOS switches for 54 Fords. Good Luck!

 

[JohnSunliner]

Today I was able to get the switch out doing exactly what you said. It turns out the switch is good, it was just wired very poorly (baling wire and duct tape sort of deal). Got it all straightened out and everything, even my dash lights work now! Next I will tackle my gas gauge and idiot lights. I installed an aux VDO temp gauge because I needed to really know whether my cooling was adequate with a newly rebuilt 302 and the original radiator. It was not until I put in a 180 degree thermostat. Thanks again Don.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Isn't working on old cars fun finding old "repairs" and "upgrades". Bet we could fill a book on that subject...

On the Gas gauge, ensure you have a good ground, common problem.

 

[JeffB2]

I am going to offer you a suggestion that helped me a bunch so read this: http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/current_topic.html The old Ford switches do not take kindly to add ons when going to 12 volts so to take the load off add the relays on the headlights and the ignition switch as shown in the article,you can get these relays and the matching plugs at your local Fry's Electronics store for less $$ your headlights will be much brighter as a plus also and you won't have to worry about your ignition switch crapping out.

 

[FordFlatheadFan]

Thanks to Ole Don for the post on how to remove the headlight switch. I’m sure I would have tried to unscrew the bezel first, not knowing you need to push the bezel in first before turning it to remove. I have this switch on my ‘54 Mercury Monterey and everything works fine except the dimmer function for the dash lights. I have a newer NOS Ford replacement switch but am not sure it’s worth the effort and risk of failure to replace it. Any thoughts? Leave well enough alone or replace the switch?

 

[55blacktie]

When I converted my 55 Tbird to 12v, I replaced the original (defective) headlight switch with a 12v switch. The turn-signal flasher, cigar lighter, and clock (now quartz) also 12v. However, you don't need 12v gauges, but gauges and sending units must be the same voltage to work properly. You can keep 6v window, seat, and heater blower motors, but the windows and seat will move very fast (closing windows could be dangerous), and the blower motor should be operated on Low setting. Oh, and my original radio will be converted to Aurora 12v am/fm stereo, but power to radio can be stepped down to 6v.

 

[55blacktie]

By the way, even with the headlight-switch button being depressed, the knob can be stubborn when removing it from the switch. It helps to twist while pulling. I found this to be the case, even with the new switch.

 

[Daves55Sedan]

Actually, there is a special tool available from most repro parts suppliers that can be used to remove all old Ford dash bezels, including the ignition switch. I have had one for decades and it really comes in handy. I have some pretty big screwdrivers, but none still reach the full width of the bezel slots. Usually found in interior/dash section of catalog.
Agree with 55blacktie about the button on the top of the switch behind the dashboard being stubborn sometimes, but it will eventually release the HL knob if you mess around with the knob enough.
BTW, dimmer switch resistor springs can be carefully cleaned up using a Dremel wire wheel at lowest speed, then rub Hi-dielectric silicone compound upon the spring to prevent corrosion. This has helped my dimmers last decades longer.

 

[paul2748]

6 volt switches, like the ignition and light switch, are used to handling more amperage than a 12 volt switch. Therefore, if the switches are in reasonably good condition, changing is not required. My 54 has been converted to 12 volt. Both the ignition and light switch seem to be original switches. Not a bit of trouble with them for the 10 years I have had the car.

 

[55blacktie]

I don't know about 54, but 55, 56, and 57 Tbird ignition switches are the same for both 6v and 12v.

 

[dmsfrr]

I don't know about 54, but 55, 56, and 57 Tbird ignition switches are the same for both 6v and 12v.

The electrical contacts of the 6v switches may have a slightly higher current capacity.
The potential for having less internal metal may have been a cost savings Henry took advantage of.

Headlight switches...
They may look very similar but there are a few differences.
The center shaft of the '57 switch is a bit longer. The knob sticks out too far when in a '55 switch.

A '55 headlight switch has two built-in 20 amp thermal circuit breakers. Due to the reduced current in the '56 & '57 12v versions those circuit breakers are likely slightly smaller in current capacity. (10 or 15 amp???)
To dim the dash instrument lights appropriately, the rheostat in a 6v light switch will have a different resistance than in a 12v version.

If one is needed, a '55 headlight switch will be a more compatible substitute than a '56 or '57.
.

 

[KULTULZ]

The old Ford switches do not take kindly to add ons when going to 12 volts so to take the load off add the relays on the headlights and the ignition switch as shown in the article,you can get these relays and the matching plugs at your local Fry's Electronics store for less $$ your headlights will be much brighter as a plus also and you won't have to worry about your ignition switch crapping out.

!!! good advice !!!​

And just say no to guillotine power glass and blower motors that mess up your eyebrows when you turn the heater on.

If you are going to do it, do it right. These things will burn.