Head light conversion help
- Thread starter nick c
- Start date
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
I would go with halogen. There are 2 typed of sealed beam conversions available. The first mounts the sealed beam bulb in a ring in the center of the bucket and looks like the eyes of a monster in a late night horror movie. The second mounts the sealed beam behind the original lens where the lens defuses the beam to a point that it is useless. If you happen to be 12 volts there are some super bright bulbs that go into the original sockets available from Ron Francis wire works (800) 292-1940, wire-works.com that I highly recommend
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens
Peter J
Well-known member
I just installed the sealed beam "monster" lights mainly because my reflectors were shot along with all the connections. I had the sealed beams in my 31 in highschool and never had a problem with lots of light. I think although not original, it's a clean installation.
pete
pete
jrelliott
Well-known member
Send me an email jrelliott42@gmail.com have a list of all the bulbs and candle power for the entire vehicle. THere are some halogen bulbs that fit the original sockets so do not have to butcher up the reflectors. If the reflectors are bad can replace or have them resilvered or another process, both of which are costly, but give amazing results. You would be surprised at how much light comes off the headlights with a 50/32cp bulb, good relectors and good elecrical connections.
Paul from Maine
Senior Member
I bought a pair of used round plow lights at a swap meet. They mount just like Model A headlight assemblies. Bought two 6 volt sealed beam head lamps at NAPA. Spliced the wiring together and wow, I could see at night! I can see better with the sealed beams than I can with my the modern lights on my 2000 Avalon. The plow lights look like they belong on the A. You and I would know they weren't originals, but to everyone else they look just right. Cheapest conversion I can think of.
Al Bass
Senior Member
I bought a halogen headlight kit with turnsignals (new reflector,halogen bulbs,amber turn signal bulbs)that use your original lenses and buckets on e-bay. there is no way to focus. Called manufacture and all I got out of them was they were aware of the problem. really upset 
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
I use the 35 watt 6V halogen direct fit bulbs with a generator, they are much brighter than the 50cp bulbs ---and they take less amps than the 50cp bulbs,
I use Australian made direct fit bulbs, they are made by a car guy, they cost more than the India, and China made bulbs but I get good focus, and proper high-low beam change --I am using original sockets, reflectors, wiring, generator(original --as in it is the one that came with the car from new)
Most of the repro reflectors are not made correct, they may look brighter, but the light won't go as far, with my 40 year old worn through and tarnished silver reflectors my 6V 35 watt halogen bulbs will light up the signs more than .3 miles ahead of me ---makes it a joy to drive at night.
I use Australian made direct fit bulbs, they are made by a car guy, they cost more than the India, and China made bulbs but I get good focus, and proper high-low beam change --I am using original sockets, reflectors, wiring, generator(original --as in it is the one that came with the car from new)
Most of the repro reflectors are not made correct, they may look brighter, but the light won't go as far, with my 40 year old worn through and tarnished silver reflectors my 6V 35 watt halogen bulbs will light up the signs more than .3 miles ahead of me ---makes it a joy to drive at night.
John LaVoy
Well-known member
In the Fall 2008 Model A Times we reviewed the halogen replacement that fits the original headlight set up. It works very well had that car out to a super bowl party Sunday night and drove home and really appreciated how bright the bulbs were.
With any of the modifications if you are placing them behind the original lens you will need to focus the light spread. That is the reason there is a screw in the rear of the housing. It allows you to move the bulb forward and back, placing it in the focal plane of the reflector. Seal beams placed with out the original lens will be in focus like they said placing the seal beam behind the original lens defuses the light to the point it loses most of its punch.
With all the light sources the condition of the reflector is paramount to good illumination from the bulb of choice.
With any of the modifications if you are placing them behind the original lens you will need to focus the light spread. That is the reason there is a screw in the rear of the housing. It allows you to move the bulb forward and back, placing it in the focal plane of the reflector. Seal beams placed with out the original lens will be in focus like they said placing the seal beam behind the original lens defuses the light to the point it loses most of its punch.
With all the light sources the condition of the reflector is paramount to good illumination from the bulb of choice.
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
Here are the details you are missing.
First you must check all your connections to make sure they are good.
You have a 12V alternator so that will mask problems in bad connections. If you opt to go to a higher output bulb then you may need to be concerned.
I will comment that a 12V system or and alternator is not needed to change over to what I consider the best solution, the direct replacement halogen bulb. This is contrary to the advice given by those who make money selling you an alt.
As you have noticed there are several changes that will get you a halogen bulb.
There is one where you put in the ugly modern bulb and some kind of reflector. I have not played with them so I can not comment further. My assumption is they are not well focused so they just kind of throw light out inefficiently. They also cost quite a bit. They work because they are just so bright. They also use a lot of energy to work.
Then there are the large sealed beam bulb adapters. They just look wrong on the A with the bulging round lamps. They should work fine.
Then we have a simple change out of the original bulb for a halogen.
What you may not know is there are now two manufacturers on the market. There are the ones made by Classic and Vintage Bulbs which are a high quality product.
The filaments are located in the correct position so they will focus properly. This assumes you are using the original reflectors and headlamp sockets (very highly recommended). The repro parts will give you grief and never work like the originals.
The second direct replacment bulb I am aware of is being imported from India by Bill Hirsch. The quality is visually less than what you get from the CVB bulbs. It is obvious the filaments are randomly placed. The Hirsch bulbs may be what you get from the supply houses.
The CVB bulbs are available in the USA from Little British Car Co. and I will warn you that the site is not easy to navigate.
With the CVB bulbs you have the option of the 35W bulb and the higher current 50W bulb. Since you are using the 12V alt the higher watt bulb is something you could consider assuming your belt is tight enough to allow the alt to put out the current. I suggest you look up how a belt is to be tightened for an alt to work at full output on the cars that used V belts. You might be surprised at how tight it should be.
With the halogen bulbs you get something close to an original look and very good light even with less then best silvering on the original reflectors. Kurt above is my brother.
A side note that is slightly political in nature:
Keep in mind the CVB bulbs are made in a Australia where people have to be paid a real wage and follow safety rules. The India bulbs are likely being assembled by a people (kids?) working in dangerous conditions for almost no money. So the CVB bulbs have to cost more.
First you must check all your connections to make sure they are good.
You have a 12V alternator so that will mask problems in bad connections. If you opt to go to a higher output bulb then you may need to be concerned.
I will comment that a 12V system or and alternator is not needed to change over to what I consider the best solution, the direct replacement halogen bulb. This is contrary to the advice given by those who make money selling you an alt.
As you have noticed there are several changes that will get you a halogen bulb.
There is one where you put in the ugly modern bulb and some kind of reflector. I have not played with them so I can not comment further. My assumption is they are not well focused so they just kind of throw light out inefficiently. They also cost quite a bit. They work because they are just so bright. They also use a lot of energy to work.
Then there are the large sealed beam bulb adapters. They just look wrong on the A with the bulging round lamps. They should work fine.
Then we have a simple change out of the original bulb for a halogen.
What you may not know is there are now two manufacturers on the market. There are the ones made by Classic and Vintage Bulbs which are a high quality product.
The filaments are located in the correct position so they will focus properly. This assumes you are using the original reflectors and headlamp sockets (very highly recommended). The repro parts will give you grief and never work like the originals.
The second direct replacment bulb I am aware of is being imported from India by Bill Hirsch. The quality is visually less than what you get from the CVB bulbs. It is obvious the filaments are randomly placed. The Hirsch bulbs may be what you get from the supply houses.
The CVB bulbs are available in the USA from Little British Car Co. and I will warn you that the site is not easy to navigate.
With the CVB bulbs you have the option of the 35W bulb and the higher current 50W bulb. Since you are using the 12V alt the higher watt bulb is something you could consider assuming your belt is tight enough to allow the alt to put out the current. I suggest you look up how a belt is to be tightened for an alt to work at full output on the cars that used V belts. You might be surprised at how tight it should be.
With the halogen bulbs you get something close to an original look and very good light even with less then best silvering on the original reflectors. Kurt above is my brother.
A side note that is slightly political in nature:
Keep in mind the CVB bulbs are made in a Australia where people have to be paid a real wage and follow safety rules. The India bulbs are likely being assembled by a people (kids?) working in dangerous conditions for almost no money. So the CVB bulbs have to cost more.
Dale Miller
Junior Member
I have used the sealed beam behind the orginal lens and they look good
enough to be un-noticed, but if used for nite driving the lens scatter the light too much. My fix was to fasten the adpt kit to the bucket so that I can snap off the lens when I drive at night. With modern sealed beam bulbs and a 12v system this gives me headlites as good as my brand new modern car and I can get replacement bulbs at any auto parts store!!
enough to be un-noticed, but if used for nite driving the lens scatter the light too much. My fix was to fasten the adpt kit to the bucket so that I can snap off the lens when I drive at night. With modern sealed beam bulbs and a 12v system this gives me headlites as good as my brand new modern car and I can get replacement bulbs at any auto parts store!!
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Nick,
Check out the "brite" bulbs available from Ron Francis, (800) 292-1940, wire-works.com. They go right into the original sockets. Other sources probably sell his bulbs if you ask. I have them in my '32 and think they are great.
Charlie Stephens
Special Coupe Frank
Well-known member
FWIW,
I am running original -style headlamps in my '28 Coupe ( repro assemblies, with chrome-plated reflectors ), and I have been running original style bulbs: the modern 50/32 CP replacements from Brattons, that don't seem to last too long, and original 32/32 CP and / or 21/21 CP bulbs.
In all cases, my original-type headlights have been sufficient for my driving, at least 50% of which is at night.
I plan on having an original pair of reflectors replated, in the Uvira aluminum process ( but original silver plate is excellent too), and using original Ford sockets and connectors.
If you have OEM lighting in good working order, it should be more than enough.
You mentioned you have an AA - I doubt you will be going fast enough to have to worry about "overdriving your headlights"...
( I think sealed-beam conversions , whether behind the lens or not , don't look very good. )
Just my 2 cents.
I am running original -style headlamps in my '28 Coupe ( repro assemblies, with chrome-plated reflectors ), and I have been running original style bulbs: the modern 50/32 CP replacements from Brattons, that don't seem to last too long, and original 32/32 CP and / or 21/21 CP bulbs.
In all cases, my original-type headlights have been sufficient for my driving, at least 50% of which is at night.
I plan on having an original pair of reflectors replated, in the Uvira aluminum process ( but original silver plate is excellent too), and using original Ford sockets and connectors.
If you have OEM lighting in good working order, it should be more than enough.
You mentioned you have an AA - I doubt you will be going fast enough to have to worry about "overdriving your headlights"...
( I think sealed-beam conversions , whether behind the lens or not , don't look very good. )
Just my 2 cents.