Head gasket Went for a ride

Another old trick is loosen the nut off a few turns and start up the n engine the head will come lose normally when it warms up a bit
 
I'd also screw the nuts back on about half way then keep the studs wet with penetrating oil and tap the nuts sideways several times for a few days.
 
Brenden
I feel your pain. I just pulled my coupe into the garage yesterday low on power with a leaking head gasket. My motor was rebuilt in the 40's last so I imagine that it will be a beast to pull also. Tomorrow I'm borrowing a head puller from another club member, I'm hopeful this will make it easier
 
My Stipe head puller has been used on a dozen or so heads. Hasn't failed to get one off yet.
 
I had a similar problem the first time I attempted to remove the head. Funny how is goes much easier when you remove the two water neck nuts.
 
Just thinking out loud, how about using clay to build a dam around the studs and fill it with your favorite penetrating oil. hook up your lift to put upward pressure on head and heat the head area with a space heater for a while? :confused:
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Just thinking out loud, how about using clay to build a dam around the studs and fill it with your favorite penetrating oil. hook up your lift to put upward pressure on head and heat the head area with a space heater for a while? :confused:
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I did that and it really worked good, let it set for a couple days then heated - water pump neck bolts need it the most.

John
 
well i finely got the head off! what a joke! 3 weeks! i used a Bill Stipe Head puller and heat . also lots of penetrating oil. i think i need to replace some studs. i did not brake any
 
Unless the studs are severely pitted, I'd leave them alone. If they must be removed, then I'd use an ox/acc torch to heat them red hot in the area next to the block, and as they cool spray some penetrating oil on the threads. Repeat a few times then try to remove them. Instead of penetrating oil, I've heard good results using wax to soak into the threads.

If or when they break, then Vince has an excellent way to remove the broken part by welding on a large flat washer and nut. This has never failed to work for me.
 
well i finely got my car on the road Monday. getting the head off was a nightmare. but after that everything went good. i removed the studs and had the head milled. also had the radiator fixed, it had a leak in it. i found that #4 exhaust valve was burnt. i replaced it and one outer. and laped them in. new valve guides and springs. the car runs better then it has ever ran for me. there is more power then it ever has had for me. also it seems to run smother
 
Don't ignore the need to re-torque several times after cooling down during the first 100 miles. Congratulations on tackling a beast of a job.
 
There was a guy on facebook that had the same problem with his head. Tried different methods and with a head puller broke the spark plug section of the head. To remove it he had to use a cold chisel and a hammer.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
There was a guy on facebook that had the same problem with his head. Tried different methods and with a head puller broke the spark plug section of the head. To remove it he had to use a cold chisel and a hammer.
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i saw that, i bet he was not patient enough, i would get mad and walk away.
 
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