Head gasket thickness?

Bob
I have no idea about the graphite type gaskets. My copper gaskets were .045" compressed
 
Okay, sounds about the same, thought I read on a compression chart somewhere that some gaskets were thicker than others. Thanks
 
Didn't they used to make some thin copper head gaskets to raise compression? Been a while since I messed with flatheads, but now putting one together for probably my last build project.
 
Junknshit said:
Didn't they used to make some thin copper head gaskets to raise compression? Been a while since I messed with flatheads, but now putting one together for probably my last build project.
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Yes, back in the 50's I bought a set of the thin sheet copper gasket, I think they only about .010 thick. Installed them on a 59AB I had 48 Ford, they leaked water to beat hell. I supposed if you had the deck milled and the heads and spray sealer o them thay would probably hold water. I was only a teenager back them. Walt
 
The 3036 is a copper faced, sandwich gasket. In my opinion it will remain at a thicker value after fully compressed(several heat-cool cycles and re-torque) than the graphite gasket.
 
I think it was made by victoe and can be reused dozens of times, never had any problem with them. Not sure if their still available.
 
  1. JWL said:
    The 3036 is a copper faced, sandwich gasket. In my opinion it will remain at a thicker value after fully compressed(several heat-cool cycles and re-torque) than the graphite gasket.
    Click to expand...
    Unable to find Victor head gasket for late block, 3036 was for earlier block '39-'48. However, found Fel-Pro 1056 that has compressed thickness of .062". This sounds like it will give me .012" more clearance than my .050" graphite gasket. I should end up with .049" piston edge to head clearance.
 
Just found out Fel-Pro 1055 & 1056 head gaskets require special machine work done to head. I'll have to stick with the graphite.
 
BobM said:
Just found out Fel-Pro 1055 & 1056 head gaskets require special machine work done to head. I'll have to stick with the graphite.
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Hi Bob, not sure where you're getting your info from, but we've been using these numbers for as long as Fel-Pro has been making them and have never done any "special" machine work to either the block or the heads!!

Just a good "sharp" cutter on the mill, for a reasonably smooth finish, and your good to go!

We do use some "copper-spray" (on the 1055/1056's and most copper's) with adhesive and haven't had a single "leaker" yet!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Also, contrary to belief, we have found it isn't necessary to "retorque" the heads either, but we do use a full set of "ARP" studs, washers, and nuts! This is how we do it here, now most see the dyno also! There is also a good reason to "back-down" the torque numbers slightly with aluminum heads! We run the fasteners at 65% to 70% of the yield with aluminum's, iron heads get 75%. The expansion rate on aluminum allows for lower torque!
 
What special machine work are you refering to. These 1056 gaskets are the same as the 3036 big bore, except they are made for the later blocks
 
GOSFAST said:
Hi Bob, not sure where you're getting your info from, but we've been using these numbers for as long as Fel-Pro has been making them and have never done any "special" machine work to either the block or the heads!!

Just a good "sharp" cutter on the mill, for a reasonably smooth finish, and your good to go!

We do use some "copper-spray" (on the 1055/1056's and most copper's) with adhesive and haven't had a single "leaker" yet!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Also, contrary to belief, we have found it isn't necessary to "retorque" the heads either, but we do use a full set of "ARP" studs, washers, and nuts! This is how we do it here, now most see the dyno also! There is also a good reason to "back-down" the torque numbers slightly with aluminum heads! We run the fasteners at 65% to 70% of the yield with aluminum's, iron heads get 75%. The expansion rate on aluminum allows for lower torque!
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Gary, Jeg's online catalog shows Victor 1055 requires machine work, contacted tech. dept via email (Bob.Grace@Jegs.com) about the 1056 and was told that they also required machine work. I'm no expert but I had never heard of any head gasket for the flathead requiring ANY machine work. Maybe the "milling" process you refer to is the machine work they're talking about; and is that absolutely necessary to do or is that something you do to meet your standards? In other words can I install the 1055 or 1056 gaskets without mill work ? What is the difference between the 1055 & 1056 gaskets; they're both listed for the late block. My plan is to torque my Offy heads to 50lbs, sound about right? I appreciate you taking the time to answer my inquiries.
 
The 8BA style engine uses a left and right gasket. The 1055 and 1056 are left and right.

I have no idea what the "special" machine work is? There has only been several hundred used without "special" machine work. It is possible the reference is there to be sure the surface finish texture is very smooth.
 
When runnung the stock car and doing experimenting back in the day. The heads came off quite often, I used Hi-tac for a sealant and never had a problem with leakage. Using Bolts saves allot of problems, torque to #45 for three heat cycles.
 
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