Head Gasket question

ctvpa

ctvpa

Senior Member
I see several threads regarding head gaskets. When people identify water contamination in the oil, some say the dipstick shows full to the top, and they drain water, antifreeze out of the crankcase.

Many people respond by instructing them to re-torque the head.

This is a concern to me. My feeling is, if you have an identified contamination, then the inner core of the gasket has a failure. This missing inner core now leaves a void. My fear is when you torque the head, with an area with a definite void, would applying so much force you can warp or crack the head, causing even more problems?

My thought would be to play it safe, if you see a problem, change the head gasket. They are not a huge investment, while my head and engine are. I keep a gasket in my tool box. So far, never had to use it, but I have had one when several others have needed it.

Any thoughts ?
 


Hey CTVPA



Your right about the head gasket,,By the time it's leaking ,,It's probably too late..When you remove the head look at the gasket you'll see where it was leaking..Look for Black area's on the gasket's "that's" the leaking spot...also check the head for flatness & if needed have it surfaced



On the head gasket's just be aware that the Copper one aren't sealed on the water jacket's "area's"...I use the new silicone type...Your Choice...



Greg out west
 
no need to get in a hurry to pull the head, retorque it to the proper specs, and then if the problem persists, then pull the head and find the problem, whats the old saying ? if it aint broke, dont fix it
 
not that long ago there was a discussion here about regular re-checking of head nut torque. Several users went out and checked theirs and were surprised to find several nuts were low. Several of us concluded that an occasional re-torquing was cheap insurance. Your results may vary
 
I agree torquing fairly routine. I am speaking of the people who have an obvious problem. Several members of the Barn suggest torquing after a problem is identified. I think that torquing where there is part of the gasket missing would lead to a cracked or warped head.
 
I've never seen part of the gasket missing where it might seal out coolant. I have seen part missing between combustion chambers where it was blown out.
 
ctvpa said:
I see several threads regarding head gaskets. When people identify water contamination in the oil, some say the dipstick shows full to the top, and they drain water, antifreeze out of the crankcase.

Many people respond by instructing them to re-torque the head.

This is a concern to me. My feeling is, if you have an identified contamination, then the inner core of the gasket has a failure. This missing inner core now leaves a void. My fear is when you torque the head, with an area with a definite void, would applying so much force you can warp or crack the head, causing even more problems?

My thought would be to play it safe, if you see a problem, change the head gasket. They are not a huge investment, while my head and engine are. I keep a gasket in my tool box. So far, never had to use it, but I have had one when several others have needed it.

Any thoughts ?
Click to expand...

Not always true, just because "... you have identified contamination,..." Does not mean that, "... the inner core of the gasket has a failure".

Something as simple as a "loose" head that needs to re-torqued can cause the problem. So why not just do something simple first?
 
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