Head Gasket problem?

M

Mort

Senior Member
In the last few weeks I have been having a problem with foam coming out of the radiator cap. It started as just a little “spitting” and now is a full blown gusher. It is fine when first started but as it heats up the problem starts to occur. It is OK when there is not a lot of load on the engine but when pulling up any kind of grade it starts, as soon as I let up on the peddle is stops instantly. I have searched out other threads on the forum and from what I can gather it appears to be a bad head gasket (hopefully not a cracked block). I do notice some moisture out of the tailpipe but no water in the oil.
So, with all that said I have some questions about the fix. First I plan to test the compression prior to doing anything. If I find a problem there it is off with the head.
My questions are:

  • I read many forum threads about pulling the studs out of the engine, when the head is removed. If the head nuts come off without a problem, is there any reason to pull the studs? Can’t they be left in?
  • I have also been reading about the advantage of the 5:5:1 head. How do I know if the head that is on the car is the high compression head or if it is standard? Is there any way of telling?
  • If it is standard, I am thinking of putting on a high compression head because the terrain here in NW CT is very “hilly” and that extra power might be just right. Again from what I have read searching the forums here, that seems the way to go. Any recommendations for brand?

Any other thoughts on the issue would appreciated and helpful.
Maybe I am all wet and should go in another direction.
Thanks
 
Mort . The reason for removing the studs is to make it easy to clean the block surface . You should also use new studs . Block and head surface must be very clean if using the new silicone impregnated head gasket that is recommended. Buy your head gasket from the same place you get your head to make sure you are using the proper one . Bubby Sharp in KY
 
That's quite a project you have going here. I think the first thing to do is re-torque all the head bolts and make sure they are correct. Remember when doing so you should back them off an 1/8 of a turn and then tighten them. If you have already done this and you are still foaming then of course the headgasket is suspect. Head bolts are a mixed bag whether they will come off easy or not. You do not say how long you have owned the car so I will say that if it was me and I was going to pull the head and I didn't know how long they had been on the car I would replace them. A Snyders 55 head is the best bang for your buck as far as performance. You will notice immediate improvement in overall power. Pulling hills shouldn't be an issue if everything else is ok. Are you having any overheating issues with the foaming?
 
It is my understanding that the studs can and do stretch from being torqued. As for the Snyder 5.5, it is pictured below. Stock head combustion chambers don't come to a point over the piston. I use clean (no spray or other sealer) copper gaskets and have not have any problems.

Image001.jpg

Image005.jpg
 
dont need any thing on copper gaskets, but if your going to use composition gaskets spay both sides with copper coat, silver or gold paint, this is not so much as a sealer as they are release agents to help get the stuck composition parts off the head and from around the head studs, if you have or ever have to scrape that junk off the block you will know what i mean when i say use some thing to help release the gasket when you take the engine apart next time
 
if it is composite gasket, seal the inside of the holes (piston, water jacket and studs) so they dont weep to the outside of the block.
 
If it was my engine I'd try to use the original head studs and I'd leave them in place if they don't have any noticable rust pits. The original studs have a full dimension portion that makes for good alignment of the head and gasket, plus they are the best fit and good quality studs.

I would scrape around each stud with a sharp knife or razor blade to make sure the head is clean. Look the old gasket over for signs of leakage, usually indicated by a dark area, or sometimes white from dried water deposits. As Tincup mentioned, the high compression head is the best bang for the buck. I always use the copper gasket and spray both sides with Copper Coat.

If you need to remove the studs try heating them dull red, then let them cool. As they are cooling down lay some wax against the stud, so it will wick down into the threads. Try to use a turning force only to remove the stud, such as two vice grips, so you can pull on one as you push on the other. If you use only one vice grip or pipe wrench, then you put a lot of side force on the stud as you are trying to remove it. The best stud removal tool would be a SnapOn stud remover used with a T handle. You may need a couple of heat-cool cycles using the torch on the stud to help loosen it for removal. If the stud breaks, then I think Vince has a good removal method listed on his site. Weld a flat washer to the stud, then weld a nut to the washer. After it cools, turn the nut to try to remove the stud.
 
Mort, I had exactly the same symptoms you describe a couple of years ago. Trying the easy things first, while retorqueing the head I found the No.1 stud, under the distributor, was stripped. I pulled the head and installed a replacement stud with 1/2-13 coarse threads and the engine has been performing flawlessly since. Oh, and I agree with Tom regarding old vs. new studs: the coarse end of studs should be an interference fit (I believe it's Class 5) and be "driven" into their positions so that the nut comes off when servicing rather than the stud pulling out. In my experience, the studs from the popular supply houses are not made using a Class 5 fit on the coarse end but a Class 2 fit on both ends; useable, but incorrect. Once again, the old original parts are best.
 
I have the exact sames issues on the roadster we just got. I notice after it running for awhile we get some light bubbles and foam in the rad. It runs good but just noticed this the other day. Hopefully this weekend I'm going to take it for a short drive and see if she boils over. I don't have any noticeable cracks or leaks in the head gasket... I will try also to retorque and see if it moves.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
If it was my engine I'd try to use the original head studs and I'd leave them in place if they don't have any noticable rust pits. The original studs have a full dimension portion that makes for good alignment of the head and gasket, plus they are the best fit and good quality studs.

I would scrape around each stud with a sharp knife or razor blade to make sure the head is clean. Look the old gasket over for signs of leakage, usually indicated by a dark area, or sometimes white from dried water deposits. As Tincup mentioned, the high compression head is the best bang for the buck. I always use the copper gasket and spray both sides with Copper Coat.

If you need to remove the studs try heating them dull red, then let them cool. As they are cooling down lay some wax against the stud, so it will wick down into the threads. Try to use a turning force only to remove the stud, such as two vice grips, so you can pull on one as you push on the other. If you use only one vice grip or pipe wrench, then you put a lot of side force on the stud as you are trying to remove it. The best stud removal tool would be a SnapOn stud remover used with a T handle. You may need a couple of heat-cool cycles using the torch on the stud to help loosen it for removal. If the stud breaks, then I think Vince has a good removal method listed on his site. Weld a flat washer to the stud, then weld a nut to the washer. After it cools, turn the nut to try to remove the stud.
Click to expand...

Some great suggestions, I did try to re-torque the head.
Tom, as for wax when hot, just a standard paraffin type of wax?

Thanks for ALL the help.
Mort
 
Yes, as far as I know it's standard candle wax. I haven't tried it yet, but have heard good reports of others that have tried it.
 
old182 Don't have him tighten the studs too much as the threads in the block are just cast iron and will give (cut) out easily, it would be better to use locktight type product on those threads and just bottom the stud gently.
 
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