Head clearence.

Torchie

Senior Member
I sent in a EAB head from a stock Flathead to be cleaned and magnefluxed.
It seems the guy misunderstood me and went ahead and resurface the head because it was uneven. He took off 10 thousands.
I am I going to have a clearence issue and if I do the clay test what should I have for clearence.
Thanks as always for the response's.
Torchie.
 
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To the best of my knowledge they have not been cut before. When the time comes I will do the clearence test as well.
Torchie.
 
Shadetree mechanic rule; Lay the head on the block with no gasket. Carefully turn the engine over, if pistons clear contact with the head then the gasket thickness will be sufficiant.
 
Shadetree mechanic rule; Lay the head on the block with no gasket. Carefully turn the engine over, if pistons clear contact with the head then the gasket thickness will be sufficiant.

Thanks for the tip. I will give it a try.
Torchie.
 
I like .040/050" for better combustion and have milled the heads as much as .040" to get this depending on pistons used.
 
Being were talking about piston clearance how about pop up piston into the heads. My flathead Harley is set up like that ....I don't here much talk about pop up for V-8 ford flatheads .....Torchie Did I just redirect your thread no disrespect intended.....It's been on my mind.......possible build ..........
 
Being were talking about piston clearance how about pop up piston into the heads. My flathead Harley is set up like that ....I don't here much talk about pop up for V-8 ford flatheads .....Torchie Did I just redirect your thread no disrespect intended.....It's been on my mind.......possible build ..........

Not a problem. Redirect away. I got the answers I was looking for.
Torchie.
 
Ol Ron, Hi, I was wondering what method was used for shaving the head to come up with the .040". I have to make more room because my pistons are touching my alum. heads. I have a die grinder and different types of burrs; I’m considering using a 1" round.
 
I have split gaskets and used one side of the copper for a shim to get clearance. Trouble is, if you don't clay them you'll never know how much you have, and may be able to mill them a bit and get a bit more compression.. After all who would want .07/08 when .04/.05 is enough.
 
Head shims are available and there's a company in CA that will make you a set of copper gaskets just about any thickness you want/need.
 
When installing a new head on a re built engine you have to check for piston and vaalve clearance, On a street engine .040/,050" over both is what I shoot for. Most of the new Edelbrock heads have quite abit of valve clearance so that's not a problem. The older heads and especially Offys do not clear the Hi Lift cams like the 400jr and L-100. It;s best to check piston clearance befor the valve are installed.
I put little aluminum balls on the pistons one in the center and one on the edge. Install a used head gasket amd clamp down the head with a few bolts, rotate engine and remoe head and measure the thickness of the balls. This will be your running clearance. Most heads have.o6o/,080" clearance. this tells you how much to mill the head t get your desired clearance. on the 294 with Ross pistons we milled the new 74cc Edelbrock heads .025" resulting in .045" clearance. This was checked by snaking in a piece of solder into the spark plug hole after the heads were torqued to 45 ft/lbs and came out at .050" I hpped for a tighter chamber but this will work just fine.
If you have a piston hiting the head, ypu'll have to have it re-domed for proper clearance. on the early heads I have the valve clearance by tipping the head to a 5 degree angle and using a shell mill cout the valve clearance. After all this is done you cc the head to find the CR, if it's to hi you can extend the transfer area to lower it. Not much you can do to raise it. You have to plan these things when starting the build. After spending several thousands of dollars on th short block, installing a properly prepared cylinder head will take advantage of all the rest of the parts. Now adding carburation and ignition systems with the same fore thought and you have one hell of an engine. Power and economy in one package.
 
Ron, Thankyou for the detailed educational post. I wish I knew how to save all these little nuggets. Hopefully some of it goes into my head, and stays awhile.
 
Ron, Thankyou for the detailed educational post. I wish I knew how to save all these little nuggets. Hopefully some of it goes into my head, and stays awhile.

Go to the top of the thread and select "Thread tools" check the box to subscribe to the thread. (you can opt for email notification of further posts if you want.)

Then you can build up a library of threads you want to be able to find quickly.

When you want to access them, select "Quick links" at the top of the page and select your subscribed threads. And all the threads you subscribed to will appear.

Piece of cake.

Mart.

PS nice post, Ron, Thanks.
 
DO NOT bolt the heads down tight to the block with the aluminum balls until and unless you are certain there is "some" clearance. Just place the head on the block with a few loose bolts. Hold the head down with your hand and rotate the crankshaft a few turns and carefully observe for any piston to head contact before trying to clamp it and measure with balls.
 
I am having the same sort of issues with a set of offy 8ba heads.
One looked ok but the other had a deep pit in the combustion chamber, so i had it welded, then I gave to a friend to mill, he had to take .010 off to get it flat.
So I have not tried to install them on my 47 yet, because I don't want it down waiting parts for the few weeks of summer we have to drive in.

So my question is where do you get the thicker head gaskets? Are any off the shelf gaskets thicker than others?
 
You may have too much clearance now, Measure it, on most heads you can remove much more before they reach the desired .050" clearance.
 
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