Head Bolts

M

metro1

Senior Member
I am installing 1955 heads (ECL) on a 1959 block. When I removed the '55 heads from the ECG block all of the long bolts were the same length. The bolts on the '59 block had 2 long ones on the ends. Headbolts.com indicates the heads dictate which bolts to use. So should I use all 4.06" bolts on top row? One of the heads from the '59 block was cracked so I'm using some from another engine
 
Read the paragraph about head bolts at this link. Double check the depth of the bolt holes in the block, and the thickness of the heads at all the bolt holes.

http://ford-y-block.com/assemblyerrors.htm
"Head bolts. There appear to be 2 different length head bolts in a Y-Block engine, 5 short bolts near the spark plugs and 5 longer bolts under the rocker arms. It’s true that the 5 short bolts near the spark plugs are identical but the 5 under the rockers are not the same! 2 of these bolts are slightly longer and are installed at the outer ends of the head where the alignment dowels are located. Lay all 10 longer bolts (5 per bank) next to each other and you should find 4 longer and 6 that are about ¼"shorter. Installing the longer bolts in the center 3 holes can cause them to bottom in the block which can result in a blown head gasket. Late production engines have only long and short bolts."

You'll also need to change the threaded bushing for the '57+ style Temperature sensor. '55 has a larger bushing & sensor than '57+.
1/4 inch NPT vs. 3/8 inch NPT. The sensors aren't interchangeable.
 

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My 55 Tbird has a 56 block with the original 55 heads. Although all of the upper head bolts are the same length for 55, 56-later, as stated, use the longer bolts at the ends. Although my heads are 55, the engine has the longer end bolts found on later years.

A 56 12v sender will fit the bung in your 55 head. However, I do recommend that the sender and gauge are a matched set. There is a specialty tool available for removing the bung. The outside diameter of both large and small bungs is the same.
 
If your using the 59 block, probably best to go with the longer bolts at the ends since the block is made for it. Using the shorter head bolts in the end holes in a 56 and later block may cause stripping before the correct torque is met



In 54 and 55 all the longer head bolts were the same length. In 56 this changed and the end bolts were made longer and the block machined to match
 
Thanks for all the advice. I ordered the 3 length set from Headbolts.com today. Hopefully I will get the heads back from the shop early next week.
 
55blacktie said:
. . .
A 56 12v sender will fit the bung in your 55 head. However, I do recommend that the sender and gauge are a matched set. There is a specialty tool available for removing the bung. The outside diameter of both large and small bungs is the same.
Click to expand...
Yes a year matched gauge & sensor pair is a good thing. Reuse the Temp sensor from the original head, assuming it was working well before.
A '56 sensor & gauge were designed for full 12 volt operation, no gauge voltage regulator like the '57+ dashboards have.

https://www.classictbird.com/Bushin...nder-1_4-NPT-57-1-Per-car/productinfo/10911B/
 
The new head bolts I ordered come with washers. The heads I removed from 2 engines did not have those. Do I need to use washers?
 
metro1 said:
The new head bolts I ordered come with washers. The heads I removed from 2 engines did not have those. Do I need to use washers?
Click to expand...

7. Resurfacing a cylinder head decreases its overall height, so be sure to check bolt lengths to make sure they won’t bottom out in blind
holes. If a bolt bottoms out, it will apply little or no clamping force
on the head, which may allow the gasket to leak.

If a head has been milled and one or more head bolts may be dangerously close to bottoming out, the problem can be corrected by either using hardened steel washers under the bolts to raise them up, or by using a copper head gasket shim in conjunction with the new head gasket to restore proper head height.
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SOURCE - https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/10/ten-head-bolt-installation-tips/

I a$$-u-me they sent you an ARP BOLT KIT. Did it include an instruction sheet? Any question/doubt at all, call their TECH-LINE.

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It is better to clean up the threads with a thread chaser rather than a tap. A tap may remove material resulting in a sloppier fit.
 
Bolts can be cleaned up with a thread chaser just as well. Using a die does the same thing as a tap in in the hole.
 
Here is a Ford bulletin about the different length bolts. Just got it off the YBlock site. Oddly enough, it does not warn against using the longer bolts in a 54 or 55 engine.
 

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paul2748 said:
Bolts can be cleaned up with a thread chaser just as well. Using a die does the same thing as a tap in in the hole.
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The threads on a cap screw may be rolled and a thread chaser would ruin the threads.

0996b43f80208d77.gif
 
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Many years ago I had a '57 Bird with a 312, the engine would seep a minor amount of coolant around the head bolts. A friend of mine that was a full time mechanic told me to use thick head bolt washers for a Chevy V8,,, Problem Solved... My friend Gary felt that the shoulders on the Ford head bolts was to narrow and distorted the top of the heads, causing coolant seepage.
 
Kultulz, I would not reuse that head bolt pictured above (the upper one). A bolt like that, is just asking for trouble. I would not use that on a water pump, a starter, a thermostat housing, and certainly not on a head.

Ordering new bolts is a bit of a pain. It's hard to do unless you know exactly what you want. And when I go to the hardware store, it seems they always carry bolts slightly longer, or slightly shorter. And then there is grade to consider. Once I start asking about grade fastneners it's like the selection goes way down. Besides the clerks have zero knowledge these days.

I saw a thread on here recently where ARP is shipping head bolts for Y-blocks knowing they have fitment issues.
 
I would not reuse that head bolt pictured above (the upper one). A bolt like that, is just asking for trouble. I would not use that on a water pump, a starter, a thermostat housing, and certainly not on a head.
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I probably shouldn't have put that particular ILL in that actual post as it may cause confusion. That shows a stretched bolt either from over-torquing and/or inferior metal.

You can also come across a similar problem when pulling a cap screw out of a water jacket. The coolant became caustic and ate at the bolt. Again, do not re-use.

... when I go to the hardware store,
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You don't buy automotive fasteners at a hardware store. They are of CHINESIUM.

https://www.amkproducts.com/ or FASTENAL are just two sources.

The MPC will give hardware sizes (attaching parts).
 
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Probably had the wrong bolts on the wrong holes. Since no bolts in a Y go into the water jackets, it must have been a leaky head gasket,.


That last part is one I haven't heard before. I have reused the old head bolts and never had a water leakage problem.



blucar said:
Many years ago I had a '57 Bird with a 312, the engine would seep a minor amount of coolant around the head bolts. A friend of mine that was a full time mechanic told me to use thick head bolt washers for a Chevy V8,,, Problem Solved... My friend Gary felt that the shoulders on the Ford head bolts was to narrow and distorted the top of the heads, causing coolant seepage.
Click to expand...
 
I received the bolts yesterday (they are ARP). As long as you use the supplied washers on them, which are chamfered on the bolt head side, they measure within 1/16 of the factory length.
 
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