Harmon Collins Rotors ?????
- Thread starter BUBBAS IGNITION
- Start date
Color was chosen since the the material matching original couldn't be replicated without considerably more invetsment and time.... I wanted to use the "Tootsie roll" colored material (What I call it) since testing showed much stronger, more crack and chip resistant properties.
Here is it installed fitting very nicely to the cap above, and the distributor housing below.
Here is it installed fitting very nicely to the cap above, and the distributor housing below.
Attachments
Sorry for taking so long fellas....
I've made a few to send out to the people I'd promised them to, and the couple a people that pm'd me. It's so weird seeing a new one since I'm so used to the "epoxy repaired, safety wired" center caps so I'm getting used to seeing new ones gonna take a bit
I also beefed-up a bit the contact ring to coil wire terminal ( see 2rd attachment) for more trouble free service.
I've made a few to send out to the people I'd promised them to, and the couple a people that pm'd me. It's so weird seeing a new one since I'm so used to the "epoxy repaired, safety wired" center caps so I'm getting used to seeing new ones gonna take a bit
I also beefed-up a bit the contact ring to coil wire terminal ( see 2rd attachment) for more trouble free service.
Attachments
Last edited:
super flat
Senior Member
I received my new center cap from Joe this morning. His work is flawless, It looks great! I could not be happier. Well worth the wait. If you need one pony up, they are worth every penny! Gary
ButchRed33
Junior Member
So good to see this happening, keeping the good ol' stuff alive. Keep on doing it if you possibly can, this helps everybody involved. Thanks. My hat's off to you.
Thanks a lot for the positive feedback guys, if you know anyone in need please let them know - I made 10 more for those in need. So, get um while I got 'em!
Brian King
Member
Hello and new to this thread. Question - I have a "post-type" H&C, model 15.00. I need a rotor. Will these re-pops work on my style?
THANKS
THANKS
Offy 220
Junior Member
Thanks a lot for the positive feedback guys, if you know anyone in need please let them know - I made 10 more for those in need. So, get um while I got 'em!
Joe, I purchased two rotors from you a few years ago and I have decided to use one of my H&C dual coil ignitions on the 296" I am putting together for my 40 coupe. Please put me on your list for one of the 10 center caps you just made. I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full.
Thanks for your time and effort!
Bruce [Offy 220]
Last edited:
Hi brian, did I accidently send you a centercap instead of a rotor? I'f so let me know - might be able to modify a solution for that distributor before an exchange
Nevermind I found out who it was. ....hope the rotor works well for you.
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Bumping this one to the top to determine if anyone here knows the best way to contact DzusFast on buying his H-C Rotor and Intermediate Cap? I plan to send him a pm/email through Fordbarn and will send an email to an address that was given on an old post here (edit: email was kicked back as not being a valid address), but is a couple years old. Does anyone have a phone number or an updated email address?
Last edited:
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
John M.......Not sure what it means, but DzusFast's info page currently shows the following if you click on his screen name:
Biography Apparently I've lost any privileges to either POST, or SEND/RECEIVE email and un-able to contact anyone here. Sorry if it's an inconveenience to anyone.(I haven't been contacted either)...
DD
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
John.......Try this e-mail address: joe@specificdesign.net
His name is Joe ?.....but he still goes by DzusFast on the HAMB. He has posted over there as late as last September. Click the link below! DD
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...rotor-possibly-to-be-reproduced.841103/page-2
His name is Joe ?.....but he still goes by DzusFast on the HAMB. He has posted over there as late as last September. Click the link below! DD
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...rotor-possibly-to-be-reproduced.841103/page-2
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Thank you DD. I have been trying to find his contact info for a friend needing these H-C parts he's reproducing, but running into roadblocks on all attemps so far.
I had tried this one he gave on an old post, but it failed....."sales@specificdesign.net". I'll try the one you posted above or try to contact him on the HAMB.
I had tried this one he gave on an old post, but it failed....."sales@specificdesign.net". I'll try the one you posted above or try to contact him on the HAMB.
Last edited:
I enjoyed our conversation JM. Sorry for the difficulty but we got it handled. That "sales AT specific design" was receiving 99.999% spam, and .0001% actual sales so I shut er down
I've been hoping for more interest in my centercap, try and recoop expenses but if anyone would like to get a rotor or the new centercap just replace the "sales@" part of my email with my name (Joe at) and I'll reply
Thanks everyone for supporting me!
FLTHDCPE
Member
Would like to hear from anyone that has purchased these reproduction H & C parts and actually installed them on a running Flathead. I have both, ( the Rotor and 2nd coil adapter ring ) on my Engine and would like to hear your comments or evaluation. I have experienced some ignition problems lately and would like rule these two items out.
I got my first returned centercap
Woodie from another forum sent me his defective intermediate (Centercap).
I'm posting pictures and a descriptive explanation to help others understand what to look for, the cause, it's effect, and solution:
The cause is in temperature variations during the manufacturing/mold process. It is 200LBs. of well engineered billet steel and needs preheating prior to injecting very high temp Bakelite and then a waiting process (Cooling down evenly) staring at a stopwatch 10 minutes for each piece before exposing it to ambient air; (My rotors only took 4 minutes!) split the mold too quick and the result is hairline cracks.... too slow and the machine clogs up and have to spend 2 hours re-tooling it and repeat until everything's running smooth, cool down's timed right - kinda like baking a pound cake in a french oven I guess. Anyway, before installing always inspect for cracks please. In Woodie's case, he had a crack from the primary screw hole to 1 of 4 pin holes that support the top ring in position during manufacturing. Because the steel wasn't at the correct temp yet, the outside of the part cooled quicker than the inside leaving 'EXTERNAL VISUAL CRACKS' noticeable in my pictures so please inspect before installing.
NOTE:
I now use JB Weld (Kwick) to insulate the 4 holes from "Leaking" high voltage secondary electricity. For any naysayers, JB-weld does not conduct electricy!!! I use it in building circuits and never have had ANY issues
Woodie from another forum sent me his defective intermediate (Centercap).
I'm posting pictures and a descriptive explanation to help others understand what to look for, the cause, it's effect, and solution:
The cause is in temperature variations during the manufacturing/mold process. It is 200LBs. of well engineered billet steel and needs preheating prior to injecting very high temp Bakelite and then a waiting process (Cooling down evenly) staring at a stopwatch 10 minutes for each piece before exposing it to ambient air; (My rotors only took 4 minutes!) split the mold too quick and the result is hairline cracks.... too slow and the machine clogs up and have to spend 2 hours re-tooling it and repeat until everything's running smooth, cool down's timed right - kinda like baking a pound cake in a french oven I guess. Anyway, before installing always inspect for cracks please. In Woodie's case, he had a crack from the primary screw hole to 1 of 4 pin holes that support the top ring in position during manufacturing. Because the steel wasn't at the correct temp yet, the outside of the part cooled quicker than the inside leaving 'EXTERNAL VISUAL CRACKS' noticeable in my pictures so please inspect before installing.
NOTE:
I now use JB Weld (Kwick) to insulate the 4 holes from "Leaking" high voltage secondary electricity. For any naysayers, JB-weld does not conduct electricy!!! I use it in building circuits and never have had ANY issues
Attachments
Automotive Stud
Well-known member
I sent a PM, I'm interested in an inner cap and rotor if they are still available. Thanks!