Hard to start cold

TradModelA said:
Actually it is still gravity fed. That could be part of my issue.
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Yes, it could be.

If it runs fine when warm, why do you want to replace the points and mess with adjustments and timing?

I'm still using the swap meet points that came in my distributor. During a 3 month period of humid rainy weather and non use of the Model A, the points oxidized and wouldn't fire until I cleaned them, but this didn't justify replacing the points.
 
I agree. If it runs good when warmed up then there shouldn't be anything wrong other than starting procedure, which that question hasn't been answered [ #12 ].
 
Procedure is 1 turn gas on and push advance lever up 2 pull choke cable 3 turn ignition key 4, pump accelerator 5 press starter button.
 
CLEAN THE CARB. clogged or resticted jets will cause hard starting and prolonged need for choke. check to see that your carb is also closing properly. I had my timing all over the map and use 40+ year old points and haven't had an issue. on a different vehicle a 1985 honda xl600r. really hard to start i had to kick it 50 times. i got it cheap because if the hard starting. blew a few pieces of dirt out of the main jets and viola. it now starts in 1-5 kicks from cold.
 
On a correctly timed Model A the procedure I use when starting cold is : open GAV valve 1 full turn, retard timing all the way up, set accelerator lever about 1/3 down, press starter and pull choke out all the way for a few revolutions, after it's running lean back the GAV to around 1/3 turn. When warmed up the GAV should be set at 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
 
TradModelA said:
Procedure is 1 turn gas on and push advance lever up 2 pull choke cable 3 turn ignition key 4, pump accelerator 5 press starter button.
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OK.
Look to see if the choke plate is closing completely. Depending on which 97 you have I don't know if yours has an idle ramp on it or not requiring an open throttle to allow full travel. The throttle may have to be 'pumped' more than once and check it to see if the accelerator pump is actually working as it should. I have a suspicion that these are your problem.
 
If the symptms were the same on vbefore and after carb swap, look elsewhere - as Jim /TX advised - weak spark .... x2 simple stuff like dirty points, gap, plug grade, failing coil and don't forget everyone since it's the fordbarn..... the condenser:D
 
TradModelA said:
I'm currently in the process of replacing the points and condenser just because I had new ones.
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Actually, that's not a good reason to replace parts. A new heat proof condenser is the way to go, but some new points aren't as good as original points. What ever you do, keep the spares under the seat for emergency roadside repairs. Use lube on the distributor cam, to greatly reduce rubbing block wear.
 
How about your gas flow ,is the sediment bowl clean ,any junk in the carb bowl ,how is your carb float set.?
 
Patrick the coil is new
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Patrick L. asked about coil POLARITY, not the condition of the coil.

He also stated "The throttle may have to be 'pumped' more than once and check it to see if the accelerator pump is actually working as it should."

I'll second that and add to it, make sure the accelerator pump is squirting in both barrels, not just one.
 
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