Harbor Freight spray gun?
- Thread starter 700rpm
- Start date
I don't know much about Harbor Freight spray guns. They might be OK, but I am pretty sure they are not real high quality. The better spray guns like my Anest Awata LPH400 and Sata Jet are quite expensive, but lay down the paint very smoothly. If you colorsand your painted parts like I do, I suspect a cheaper spray gun would work OK, it would take more sanding to smooth the paint, before compounding it. If you don't want to colorsand, cheap spray guns don't atomize the paint very well and you will get more orange peel. If you do colorsand the paint to get a nice smooth finish, you need 3 coats of paint to make sure you don't sand through the paint even though the sandpaper is quite smooth (1500 to 2000) grit. Colorsanding really makes a paint job look better.
Rusty Nelson
Rusty Nelson
as Rusty said a good spray gun really lays the paint on smooth , it is hard to get a quality spray gun at a HF price of 9.95. One thought is get a few guys in the club to chip in and buy something like an Awata, just make sure it is cleaned properly after use, you won't regret the purchase.
harleytoprock
Senior Member
I couldn't get very good fine atomization with the Hf guns. The hf guns are ok for chassis parts and just ok for primer on sheet metal. I use my DeVilbiss when I need quality. You get what you pay for. Cheap guns create more work and fustration.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
I have read this over and over on different sites, primer gun.
There are those that have gotten ok results but only after a lot of color sanding.
While this specific gun is no longer sold, the setup seems to be the same as those being sold today.
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
I have their smaller gun which is completely miserable.
The tip and cap are just so poorly made it just does not work well enough.
I spent the $$$ for a Devilbis bumper demon. I still suck at painting, but a huge difference in quality of spray and how it lays the paint on the surface.
A big gun may be too much for painting a fender because you have to do lots of detail areas around the edges. You will risk getting runs, though I managed to get the anyway (I suck at painting what can I say).
If you are going the cheap route. My recommendation is to open the boxes at HF and look at the needle and the cap close. Some might be better then others. Same goes if you are buying a used gun.
Keep in mind that dry sanding the paint with the dry sand paper reduces the risk of breaking though the color level. You can tell when you hit level. Wet sanding is nice, but you are not always sure when you are level until the water drys. I have some experience color sanding.
The tip and cap are just so poorly made it just does not work well enough.
I spent the $$$ for a Devilbis bumper demon. I still suck at painting, but a huge difference in quality of spray and how it lays the paint on the surface.
A big gun may be too much for painting a fender because you have to do lots of detail areas around the edges. You will risk getting runs, though I managed to get the anyway (I suck at painting what can I say).
If you are going the cheap route. My recommendation is to open the boxes at HF and look at the needle and the cap close. Some might be better then others. Same goes if you are buying a used gun.
Keep in mind that dry sanding the paint with the dry sand paper reduces the risk of breaking though the color level. You can tell when you hit level. Wet sanding is nice, but you are not always sure when you are level until the water drys. I have some experience color sanding.
700rpm
Well-known member
I have a nice old Graco that I have used successfully in the past, but it's 1970's technology. I'm just exploring whether to get into the 21st century, or use what I've got (with the attendant materials waste [$$$!] and voc issues). Thanks for your responses.
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Domino
Senior Member
Hi:
I have a couple of Harbor freight spray guns (not the 9.95 ones) which cost around 50-60 bucks, believe they have the 1.4 tip. I found these more then adequate to paint my 30 Townsedan. Everyone comments on the quality of the paint job. It certainly looks better then many of the cars fellow club members paid 1500 to have painted. A lot is in the poreparation and paint quality. I used chroma-base paint. You can see the car to the left. And intend to use the HF guns to paint again.
I have a couple of Harbor freight spray guns (not the 9.95 ones) which cost around 50-60 bucks, believe they have the 1.4 tip. I found these more then adequate to paint my 30 Townsedan. Everyone comments on the quality of the paint job. It certainly looks better then many of the cars fellow club members paid 1500 to have painted. A lot is in the poreparation and paint quality. I used chroma-base paint. You can see the car to the left. And intend to use the HF guns to paint again.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
First, Let me say that I don't know squat about painting. I have the HF $13.95 special but I made life a little easier. I bought their 32 oz, aluminum tank (?) for the gun and that has a better cap locking arrangement and a larger paint capacity. Does it paint well? I would say probably yes, but I only use it for primer. As I said, I'm not a painter and I don't what a good gun is like. but I would recommend this gun.
Terry
Terry
Terry NJ
Well-known member
About the paint, I used TSC "Magic " paint for my frame and fenders. It's implement paint and what that entails, I don't know. This paint uses a hardener and seems to be pretty tough and durable. I will be keeping the car out of the elements so how bad can it be?
Terry
Terry
marc silva
Senior Member
If you turn the air up a little and reduce the material a bit more the paint will atomize and go on o.k.
If you give it 2 or 3 coats and let it dry over night then sand it with some 400 wet with a pad so there is no orange peel and then give it a couple more coats (thinned) at higher pressure you will get a "flatter" less orange peely surface. You blow more paint into the air than with a gun with a small tip but it works. I personally use a gravity feed Sata with a 1.5 tip which is really small but it really puts the paint down with very small peel. I should mention that this gun is 35 years old. The do gooders here in California would have a cow if you used this gun in a shop today. They want all paint and no thinners. Just look at the paint on any new vehicle. Looks like my refrigerator. Then think back if you can on how flat and smooth the finish was on a 64 Chevy. or any car of that vintage. First of all they were straight so a shiny paint job was o.k. Now days the new cars aren't that straight that's why they don't make them as shiny. Think about it.
If you give it 2 or 3 coats and let it dry over night then sand it with some 400 wet with a pad so there is no orange peel and then give it a couple more coats (thinned) at higher pressure you will get a "flatter" less orange peely surface. You blow more paint into the air than with a gun with a small tip but it works. I personally use a gravity feed Sata with a 1.5 tip which is really small but it really puts the paint down with very small peel. I should mention that this gun is 35 years old. The do gooders here in California would have a cow if you used this gun in a shop today. They want all paint and no thinners. Just look at the paint on any new vehicle. Looks like my refrigerator. Then think back if you can on how flat and smooth the finish was on a 64 Chevy. or any car of that vintage. First of all they were straight so a shiny paint job was o.k. Now days the new cars aren't that straight that's why they don't make them as shiny. Think about it.
chap52
Well-known member
Go on You Tube there is a post about HF spray gun. Shows how to clean out a Teflon material that is used by the assemblers. Apparently this is problem down the road. Other than that the post praises the cheapie gun.
I let you know in a few weeks how mine does. Waiting for the Arizona weather to cool down a bit before getting out the sanding blocks.
I let you know in a few weeks how mine does. Waiting for the Arizona weather to cool down a bit before getting out the sanding blocks.
bdave_mcc
Senior Member
The harbor freight suction guns do an ok job for painting chassis parts and such. I currently use an iwata lph400 for basecoat and clear coat. I also use a devilbiss gun for primer. For a first timer or hobbyist I'd stay away from harbor freight. You will only be frustrated and disappointed.
For under 100 bucks you can get a devilbiss starting line gun. It's a beginner gun but it will still yeild satisfactory results.
For under 100 bucks you can get a devilbiss starting line gun. It's a beginner gun but it will still yeild satisfactory results.
37Benny
Senior Member
you know I saw a youtube with old Bill Hines spraying with same paint gun he
probably had for the last 60 or so years? If it worked then it can work now, I'm looking in the next few years here buying a spray gun but I'm looking at the HPLV from eastwood. Good Luck,Benny
GreaseMonkeyMark
Junior Member
I've used a HF gun to shoot high build 2K primer, and for a primer gun its okay...nice thing is you can clean it or throw it away. I agree with several of those posting here...I'd use it for chassis paint and primer. Not a finish job gun by any means. Yes, SATA and IWATA are nice guys and lay out great paint, but if you only use it occasionally its a lot of money. Buy yourself a Devilbiss Startingline kit or finish gun - when you wet sand and buff it will be a job you can be proud of...you did it yourself.