Hand throttle rod linkage

6

6volt

Junior Member
This '30 Model A Town Car had a broken hand throttle rod at an old weld when purchased. I re-welded it. It was broken because the throttle rod contacts the starter control rod. There are wear marks indicating a long-time problem.

Now, if the rod is below the starter control rod all the hand throttle rod achieves is a fast idle because the rod contacts the starter control rod.

If the throttle rod is above the starter control rod I get full speed, but the car engine will not idle down, again because of contact with the starter control rod.

Not sure how to proceed. I need some help, please.
 

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The steering column can be rotated after loosening the two clamps. One at the dash and one at the steering box. This will probably change the position of the spark rod lever at the steering wheel when driving (no problem) and also the usual position of the throttle lever when driving (no problem). On my 31 the throttle linkage passes over the starter switch rod, not under it. Seems to work well! You may have to adjust the linkage at the carb, depends? I notice the linkage that bolts to the back of your engine may be different than my 31 or maybe it is just the angle of the photo, not sure.
 
5lugnuts- you wrote "I notice the linkage that bolts to the back of your engine may be different than my 31 or maybe it is just the angle of the photo, not sure."

Can you explain the difference? Or can I help with a photo from a different angle? This is my first experience on an A, and none nearby to compare the linkage to.

I'm working on a car that is in the condition it was in when purchased from a previous owner/restorer.
 
Just don't turn the steering column so far as to impede full travel of the spark lever at the distributor. :p
 
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Your column looks like it is too far counter-clockwise. I suggest you get it centered, buy a new throttle linkage rod, and discard the welded one. You may have to adjust the spark rod for correct travel.

Your negative cable looks small. Is it a 12v cable?
 
Thanks for the help!
After looking at the spark & gas levers I agree that the column is rotated too far counter-clockwise, if viewing from the drivers seat. When I figure what to loosen, I'll rotate it to make the spark lever higher. In the photo, both levers are in their fully retarded positions.

The photograph also reveals a dab of JB Weld on the switch that I haven't noticed until now. Now, that is a "rigged repair" on a vital part. Not vital until that first night-time ride, the owner goes to turn the lights on, and the JB gives way. The owner will discover sudden darkness! That could make for a bad night time ice cream ride!
 

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Your light switch handle points to the right, rather than straight down. You can turn the spider a quarter turn to make it correct.
 
Good repro light rods are available. Make sure you get the proper length. Lose that JB Weld job.
 
you might also consider one of those fuses that mount to the top of the starter--unless you have an in-line fuse somewhere.
 
i agree with make sure you put a fuse on the car and does your car turn over slow, the wire from the batt. to the starter seems too be a small wire like a 12 volt wire which will cause one to turn slow
 
This connector (circled in photo) is mounted on a vertical shaft and is held in place by a pin. Does anyone know the correct Ford name for the part and are they available to purchase from any of the vendors? I have checked Snyder's catalog and failed to find it listed. This one is bent to the extent that the linkage connects under the starter rod rather than above it. Thanks for your help!
 

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I called it the same as Ford calls it. Part # A-9732-A is a bell crank.

You'll have to call Bert's for a good used one. 800-321-1931
 
Yes Berts will have original parts for you to swap out, better than messing with welded parts that may be too long or too short now.
 
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