Hand crank

JSRTUDOR

JSRTUDOR

Senior Member
Ok, so why would the opening in the radiator shell line up with the bracket that’s u-bolted to the cross member perfectly but the crank pulley is about an inch too far to the right for the hand crank to engage? The bracket is centered and the radiator is centered, and the engine appears straight.
 
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Well, either the radiator and spring mount or the engine is off center. Take a tape measure to the problem. Measure from frame rail to frame rail. Both sides must be the same. Most likely the engine is off. Are one of the rear mounts backwards or not installed correctly?
 
It might be as easy as loosening everything associated and use a bit of leverage in the direction it needs to go. Thighten up everything if it is successful. If needbe have someone hold the position until all the bolts are tight.
 
Your frame is bent. Look underneath at the front engine mount yoke bolt, where it comes through the front cross member. I wager it will not be centered. Pretty common.
How do your hood and doors fit?
 
Ok, I think it’s the float-a-motor mounts that have the engine out of wack. I’m going to put the correct mounts in it and see how it goes. Thanks for the help!
 
The rubber pads in the float-a-motor mounts can get cocked if not sitting in the metal parts correctly. Take the bolts out and jack up the rear of the motor with a floor jack just enough to enable checking the mounts. You may have to put the jack at the transmission. Check to see if the pads are installed correctly. Move the front of the engine over with a 2 by 4 or other piece of wood and block it into position. carefully lower the back of the engine onto the pads, making sure everything is in alignment. Putting the bolts back without the nuts can help with the alignment. After the engine is back down tighten the bolts just enough to snug things up. The float-a-motor mounts work better is the pads are not compressed too much by the bolts. Take the blocks out at the front. You may have to loosen up the front motor mount a bit to get the front of the motor to move over. Do not jack up the rear of the motor to the point where the throttle linkage can get damaged. It is really close to the firewall.

This all assumes that the frame rails are straight. First check that by sighting down the rails or using a string.

One other point: The float-a-motor mounts are mounted to the frame rails with the original fasteners, rubber sheets, etc. Check to see if parts are missing there or if the rubber sheets have gotten damaged or are hard from age. You can buy new rubber sheets and hardware. The float-a-motor mounts came with instructions or you can find instructions online here: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/content/Snyders/Product_PDFs/A-5089-FAM (NEW).pdf.
 
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The bracket on top of the front crossmember has a pin on the bottom that is not in the center of the bracket.

When I restored my 29 roadster I couldn't understand why the crank wouldn't reach the engine as everything else lined up perfectly.

I had to replace the radiator a few years later and removed the bracket, turned it around, put it all back together and sure enough, the crank works perfectly.

Try it, I bet that's your trouble.
 
Mine was a little high when I put in float-a-motor mounts. I has to bandsaw off about 1/8" (.125") off the front rubber pucks.

Regards
Bill
 
Ok, after removing the rear float a motor, the engine lines up side to side, it’s just a little low in the front. I need to get the front float a motor off, I’ll let you know what I find.
 
The original spring front motor mounts are recommended rather than using the float-a-motor front mounts, which are too stiff.
 
I had this happen when I reinstalled the engine in my car. The spring arrangement was wrong on the front motor mount. I had to take the lower rear motor mount bolts out of the bellhousing to get it to pitch up enough to get my hand in there, get the mount off, etc. Probably will need to take the upper hose off too.

Just one of those things that happens.
 
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