Hand Brake Problem...any ideas?

jchochole

jchochole

Senior Member
Model T'ers...
I ran into a problem- my hand-brake, when vertical, locks up the rear wheels, so I took the clevis's apart and was adjusting them by turning them to gain more rod (with rear hubs off as well to see brake cams) and I ran out of brake rod. Let me explain- when the hand lever is fully forward, all is well and wheels are released, when the hand lever is about 1/3 of the way pulled back, the brakes are rubbing and when hand lever is vertical, wheels are locked. Turning down the clevis pics to gain more rod didn't work, as I am now out of threads. This hasn't happened before- this is a '26 Touring car.

Is it possible that my brake pads are so thick as to rub much of the time in low gear? Or what can I do to gain more "rod" as to keep the brakes from activating when the hand lever is vertical?

Thanks,
Jim from IL
 
I am assuming you didn't do any other work on the brake system aside from adjusting the rods and that this problem developed on it's own. If all the visible linkage is operating normally your problem sounds like it's inside the drums. You could possibly have lining that has broken loose and has lapped over the other shoe. Or for some reason the shoes aren't returning to a fully released position: rust, dirt or broken return springs are possible causes. Again, make sure all the "easy stuff" is OK first.
 
Just though of some thing else: take the clevis pin out of the brake rod at the rear wheel. Right, left or both. If the cam lever flips back and forth without any resistance the shoes are hung up (open or partiallyapplied).
 
I didn't do any brake work at all, and I have the hubss off the drums- shoes are good and in order. The cam, when I pull off the clevis pin to the rear brake, pops back and I have to tug it forward to meet and pin it to the brake rods. When I do this I lose all extra play. My brake rods are the 26-27 style and I am scratching my head about the whole thing.... one quick check; in neutral, the brake should not rub, correct? In neutral my brakes rub a bit and slow the wheel.

Thanks for helping me keep working the problem,
Jim
 
Lets start from the beginning. Did this problem develop on it's own or did you buy the car this way? If it started on it's own something changed/ bent/twisted. If you bought the car this way anything goes and who knows what was done. According to the Mac's catalog the 26/27 brake rods are straight. the 18 thru 25 rods have offset bends. which do you have? The brake cams are also different for these years. Just trying to figure out where the play is going.
 
Also in neutral the brakes should be off. Emerg brake handle 1/2 way to all the way forward. You have the drums off the wheels. with the clevis disconnected will the drums turn freely?
 
I bought the car this way and it wasn't running when I got it- but then I swapped out the rear end for a rebuit unit from the same year car. Could it have been altered- yes and that's sounding more and more likely. Yes, I have straight rods, and with the clevis disconnected the drums turn freely. I think I'd better get a measurment on the '26-'27 brake rods. I wonder if mine got altered/cut/changed at some point? Do you happen to have a '27-'27 and can get a rod measurment?

Thanks,
Jim from IL
 
Jim,

Are the brake levers on the cams on the rear facing toward the front of the car or to the back?
The E brake cams are in rights and lefts and can be put on backward. (don't ask how I know). That maybe the problem. The pins that hold the levers will need to be drilled and punched out and the cams switched.

Good luck.
Larry
 
I`m inclined to think like Larry, I don`t have a car handy to measure at the moment but will if you don`t find the problem. Monte
 
Brake levers on the rear wheels are leaning back towards the rear of the car. Is that the correct way to be installed?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top