Hammered alxe shafts - repairable?

U

UpNorthGreg

Junior Member
I picked up a '41 coupe project about a month ago. Last week I was looking at the rear end and noticed the axle nut wasn't sitting square against the washer. Checked the other side, same thing. Pulled the drums today to check them out. First nut off shows signs of being hammered and even has a visible crack. Thought, ok, just some messed up nuts. Then I turned the axle shaft. Seems whoever hammered on the axle nuts also couldn't hit straight. Both shafts are bent in the threads. Is this repairable? Thanks for any help.
 

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I guess one could put a nut on it and maybe use a hydraulic press to "gently" bend it back, but I would be worried about potential damage to this part of the axle (both before and after this work).

If I did this, then I would surely have it magnafluxed afterwards. Also, I'd make sure it could take the necessary 200+ ft lbs of torque upon reinstallation and I'd check to see that it held the torque after a few short test runs.

The best situation is to buy new axles . . . check with BarnFind08 (sp?) on this site.
 
UpNorthGreg said:
I picked up a '41 coupe project about a month ago. Last week I was looking at the rear end and noticed the axle nut wasn't sitting square against the washer. Checked the other side, same thing. Pulled the drums today to check them out. First nut off shows signs of being hammered and even has a visible crack. Thought, ok, just some messed up nuts. Then I turned the axle shaft. Seems whoever hammered on the axle nuts also couldn't hit straight. Both shafts are bent in the threads. Is this repairable? Thanks for any help.
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575350


575351
 
having recently had the axle nuts on and off my '41 numerous times while rebuilding my parking brake system, my guess is that that damage may be the result of someone attempting to remove recalcitrant axle nuts.

after all, they are intended to be torqued to 150 to 250 foot pounds, from what i've read. add a few decades of time and consequent corrosion and it's not uncommon, i think, for them to experience the business end of sledge hammer and/or a four foot breaker bar. both, IMO, capable of inflicting that kind of damage.

safety concerns for the moment to one side...i would be looking for a good machine shop as a remedy.
 
I guess I'll be looking for new (good used) axle shafts. Just don't think I would ever trust them. Anyone know off the top of their head what years will work? Thanks.
 
I would bet many "corncrib" mechanics have done this and figured out a way to save, or at least try to save those axles. What have you got to lose? Replacing axles is a lot of work and expensive. If you can straighten them sufficiently and get them torqued to 200-225 lbs. and again after driving re-torque them again it would save a lot of money, time and labor and headaches. Maybe try putting a couple 5/8-18 nuts together on the threaded portion, slide a pipe of sufficient length over the nuts and see if you can slowly work the threaded portion straight. That being said you realize that I am indeed one of those "corncrib" mechanics. Maybe this will generate better advice, and that would be good. I wish you luck!!!!!!!!!!
 
Yes you could “corncrib” these what hove you got to loose??? How about your life or somebody else’s!!! This nut holds the whole hub and wheel on should it fail there’s a good chance your wheels coming off and should that happen at a minimum you will damage fender. Replace and forget about it.
 
I wouldn't try to fix it especially on the car. You could do as B&S says,

Bored&Stroked said:
I guess one could put a nut on it and maybe use a hydraulic press to "gently" bend it back, but I would be worried about potential damage to this part of the axle (both before and after this work).

If I did this, then I would surely have it magnafluxed afterwards. Also, I'd make sure it could take the necessary 200+ ft lbs of torque upon reinstallation and I'd check to see that it held the torque after a few short test runs.

The best situation is to buy new axles . . . check with BarnFind08 (sp?) on this site.
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... but you would have to take the axle out to do it. Better to replace


575356



An aside is to also add a couple of safety brackets to hold a broken axle wheel in place.

https://cwmoss.com/products/brake-drum-retainer-kit-rear-1939-48-ford
 
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UpNorthGreg said:
I guess I'll be looking for new (good used) axle shafts. Just don't think I would ever trust them. Anyone know off the top of their head what years will work? Thanks.
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All axles 1935 to 1941 will work for you. All of those years are 32.85” in length, and must pair with either a 16 or 18 tooth spider gear. The 16 tooth began in 1939, but as you require both axles, you can use the 18 tooth if you get the spider to match.
 
there's more than a little, IMO, "chicken little" in this thread, me thinks. :)

the chances of being slaughtered by a drunk driver are thousands of times more likely than any scenario outlined here. there were over 12,000 people killed in just ONE year (2023) by drunk drivers. knowing that, i'm surprised anyone claiming to be leary of fixing an axle by bending back into shape by what amounts to forging, dares to even take their cars on the road at all. or have we forgotten that forged steel parts are made by heating and pounding them into shape with a pneumatically activated hammering device?
 
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There's a couple salvage yards that specialize in the old stuff about 100 miles from me. I checked and between the two there's a half dozen '41 rear ends to choose from at $400 each. So, worse case, I can grab a whole rear end if I have too. The rear end I have has already been blasted, primed, and painted, so finding just axles would be preferred.
 
34fordy said:
I would bet many "corncrib" mechanics have done this and figured out a way to save, or at least try to save those axles. What have you got to lose? Replacing axles is a lot of work and expensive. If you can straighten them sufficiently and get them torqued to 200-225 lbs. and again after driving re-torque them again it would save a lot of money, time and labor and headaches. Maybe try putting a couple 5/8-18 nuts together on the threaded portion, slide a pipe of sufficient length over the nuts and see if you can slowly work the threaded portion straight. That being said you realize that I am indeed one of those "corncrib" mechanics. Maybe this will generate better advice, and that would be good. I wish you luck!!!!!!!!!!
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I think the better advice has followed my post Greg. Go for it! Sometimes those old salvage yard axles are pitted and the gear ends have been submerged in water. Can be a risky purchase. If you want good parts by all means check with Fred at Southside Obsolete.
 
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This is a SAFETY issue. There is only one option, replace them. Loosing a wheel even at slow speeds give an entirely new meaning to “H*** S***”.
 
When shopping for axles, examine the axle at the inboard end of the key slot for cracks. Any sign of a crack no matter how small WILL, without doubt, fail on you at a most inconvenient time.
The above comment on Chicken Little should be ignored as coming from one who has insufficient experience in this particular subject.
 
ford38v8 said:
When shopping for axles, examine the axle at the inboard end of the key slot for cracks. Any sign of a crack no matter how small WILL, without doubt, fail on you at a most inconvenient time.
The above comment on Chicken Little should be ignored as coming from one who has insufficient experience in this particular subject.
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I'm with ya Alan. You and I both know many projects have been cobbled together. Some have worked; others have not.
Me? I'm from the (sadly) old school mentality "do it once, do it right".
 
A McGiver idea :-)

Get yourself an induction heater:
https://solary.us/products/magnetic-induction-heater-bolt-removal-b0b5znjy79?variant=40274685493326

- Turn the axle so the bend is sloping upward. Figure a way to secure it in this position
- Slide a ring type coil so it's situated over the bent threads.
- Thread a nut/s on the axle end and secure breaker bar to it. Orient and secure it so the socket on the nut and the breaker bar are sloped up, same as the bend angle.
- Arrange a block near the handle end of the breaker bar so the socket and bar don't go below horizontal
- Heat the induction coil up and push straight down on the end of the breaker bar. This shouldn't' take much force
- As soon as the bar moves indicating plastic state of threads, shut the heater off.
- Let it air cool, no water.
- Buy and install safety brackets.

Glenn
 
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