Grounding starter button issue

hombres ruin

hombres ruin

Well-known member
I have a 41 coupe 6 V , at times the starter button grounds out and it all goes dead, once I re position the button it starts right up . The hole in the dash maybe a tad to big but the sides of the button fit creating that ground but at times it grounds out. I tried soldering a wire to the tabs on the switch then run it to the dash to ground but the solder will not adhere to that metal at all. I just got a new switch today. Any ideas on how I can keep a good ground. Thanks for your help
 
It will take some experimenting. Maybe something to increase the tension on the tabs that go in the slots in the dash. Clean the contact point on the dash of paint and corrosion and fold thin metal in the slots on the dash. A couple of layers of heavy aluminum foil comes to mind. If any sticks out from behind the button it can be easily trimmed.
 
hombres ruin said:
I have a 41 coupe 6 V , at times the starter button grounds out and it all goes dead, once I re position the button it starts right up . The hole in the dash maybe a tad to big but the sides of the button fit creating that ground but at times it grounds out. I tried soldering a wire to the tabs on the switch then run it to the dash to ground but the solder will not adhere to that metal at all. I just got a new switch today. Any ideas on how I can keep a good ground. Thanks for your help
Click to expand...

I solder a thin wire to the body of the starter button and connect the opposite end very discreetly to the body (NOT the dash) near by.
I have found this to be a huge help.
This little "trick" is especially helpful with a fresh restoration as the paint is thick everywhere - body, dash, etc.
If you are having trouble soldering, I suggest (respectfully) you have someone more experienced do this for you. Solder to the BODY of the switch, NOT the tabs.
The reproduction starter buttons are total garbage. I promise you will soon find that to be true.
Do yourself a favor and search out a NOS or NORS button.
 
Explain grounds out? should be + ground. Ground out being the button does not complete the circuit? It should ground out.

Could add a ground wire from the battery to the body as built. I like a frame, body, motor ground. Not factory correct though. Paint always interrupts the flow.


It's a on/off circuit. What am I missing?


Think the rest is covered quite well.


.
 
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x2 on the repo starter buttons being junk. The new one i had was so poorly sized that no amout of tweaking would improve the fit. NOS to to rescue for me.
 
Thanks for the response . So it’s ok to solder to the main body of the switch ? It won’t interfere with its operation? Why not use the dash as the ground? Where else would you suggest or have used before? I went ahead and got a NOS switch as suggested. I hope this fixes my issues
 
hombres ruin said:
Thanks for the response . So it’s ok to solder to the main body of the switch ? It won’t interfere with its operation? Why not use the dash as the ground? Where else would you suggest or have used before? I went ahead and got a NOS switch as suggested. I hope this fixes my issues
Click to expand...

I solder directly to the body of the switch as that is precisely what needs to be grounded. The two clips are supposed to offer that affect but don't necessarily do so, especially with well painted adjacent surfaces.
Why ground to the body? That provides a better, more efficient ground. You are bypassing the instrument panel. Think of the attachment points between the instrument panel and the body. If they are not very good, you have no hope of achieving a great ground through them for your switch.
 
I restored my 38 and that included a repainted dash on its back side - grounding problems.
I used fine sand paper on the spring steel on the switch and used a file at a 45 degree angle to remove the paint on the back side of the dash to establish good contact with the spring steel retainers. Worked.
 
Bill OH said:
I restored my 38 and that included a repainted dash on its back side - grounding problems.
I used fine sand paper on the spring steel on the switch and used a file at a 45 degree angle to remove the paint on the back side of the dash to establish good contact with the spring steel retainers. Worked.
Click to expand...

Yes that does work. Still, by adding an unseen wire, the difference in how well (better) the button works is amazing. The first time did this little "trick" I was so amazed, I have repeated it with every vehicle I have restored.
 
Kube said:
Yes that does work. Still, by adding an unseen wire, the difference in how well (better) the button works is amazing. The first time did this little "trick" I was so amazed, I have repeated it with every vehicle I have restored.
Click to expand...


KUBE....YOU have become a very wise man with your electrical endeavors. DD
 
Bill OH said:
I restored my 38 and that included a repainted dash on its back side - grounding problems.
I used fine sand paper on the spring steel on the switch and used a file at a 45 degree angle to remove the paint on the back side of the dash to establish good contact with the spring steel retainers. Worked.
Click to expand...


It's how it normally works. Outside of the push button grounds to the dash. I was lucky maybe like you to reuse the original push button on my 38 truck.


Adding a hidden ground wire does help sometimes. I run one off the rear of the frame to taillights.


.
 
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