It's getting colder here in Iowa. I've noticed that when I take my '28 Sport Coupe out for a drive it grinds more now that its cold when shifting to 2nd and 3rd. Maybe it's operator error? I know that the transmission and rear end haven't been serviced yet since I bought it in May. It's on the list. It was shifting better, though. I don't double-clutch on the up-shifts, but do shift nice and slow. A couple times I've gotten frustrated and shoved the clutch down hard and then it seemed to shift better. (Does the clutch pedal have to be flat on the floor before shifting? I've always done it that way.) Could the wrong lightweight transmission fluid cause this? I wouldn't think so, though. As the car warms up it seems to do better.
Grinding When Cold
- Thread starter CatMan1
- Start date
marty in Ohio
Well-known member
Cat Man,
It sounds exactly like my car that I've driven for almost 30 years. Welcome to the world of the Model A.
Marty
It sounds exactly like my car that I've driven for almost 30 years. Welcome to the world of the Model A.
Marty
Oh, so normal? lol I threatened to trade her (Esmeralda) off for a '47 Chevy and the very next shift was super smooth! lol
I think they can understand us!Ed in Maine
Well-known member
You mentioned that you haven't serviced the transmission since you bought it last May. Do not drive it again until you check the oil level in the transmission (600W wt.) These transmissions leaked when they were new! If it is not dripping, it is empty or the previous owner installed new o-ring seals on the transmission shafts. Highly recommended. I just purchased a restored Victoria and I drained the transmission because I didn't know what fluid was in it. It is easy to do. With new 600W oil in the transmission and a properly adjusted clutch pedal, you should not be grinding a lot. Good luck with your new Model A. Ed
Mulletwagon
Well-known member
Ask two Model Aers how to shift and you will get eight opinions. Typically, when the trans is cold you can shift to 2nd without double clutching. Once warmed up it will probably require a double clutch to avoid gear clash. The 2nd to 3rd shift normally always requires a double clutch. Some folks are really good at harmonizing the the engine rpm with driving speed and can single clutch - or not clutch at all. The trick to down shifting from 3rd to 2nd is to raise rpm in neutral before dropping in gear. Normally the clutch pedal should go to the floor when shifting - providing the fre travel is properly adjusted. Mastering Model A shifting is "graduation day". Good Luck.
I'm getting closer to 'graduating'! Some days are better than others. Some parts of the drives are better than others. I've wondered if the clutch needs adjusting. Another issue that I sometimes have is the throttle lever sneaks down occasionally. I know that can be an issue.
katy
Well-known member
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
I strongly suggest that you use a American Institute of Petroleum GL series modern gear oil in the transmission and differential in lie of the stuff called 600w.
Is there test data that proves the 600W stuff is suitable for transmissions and differentials?
Is there test data that proves the 600W stuff is suitable for transmissions and differentials?
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It seems to be the current pattern. I guess I thought it would be the opposite and that colder, stiffer fluid would help slow the gears down quicker. Evidently not.
ETAModel
Senior Member
I worked on heavy equipment years ago, in cold weather they always needed to warm up a while before you could even get them in gear. Old Cable D-8's, Tail dumps, all the same. The cold weather makes oil thicker, harder to move parts in it. That's just normal. I'd check the fluid level on your trans, not good to run them dry. I took the floor wood off and checked ours from above, was easier then from under the car.
I already have purchased the 600W so I'll probably end up using it, but what would be the benefit to the modern oil you've mentioned? Will I notice a big difference?
scott_vt
Junior Member
Good Afternoon Ed,
Totally agree ! Thought I mastered my down shifts and started to get some grinding ! Crawled under the car and sure enough, transmission was way low. Filled it and checked my clutch adjustment while I was there, and Im back to making grind free down shifts !
Great advice Ed !
scotty
There are some nice YOUTUBE videos on how to shift a Model A. I make sure the transmission if up to the mark with 600W (or what the distributors sell as 600W). WHen the transmission is cold it shifts better. I never double clutch when upshifting and I am also not a racecar driver. 1st to 2nd no problem. 2nd to 3rd, I take it out of 2nd...count to 3 and shift into 3rd. When downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, I always double clutch. Sometimes I grind..... lightly grind. If I do I start the downshift again. I figure in 91 years there had to be a little grinding going on and I am likely babying the car too. Have fun...we all get better at shifting the more driving we do.
nkaminar
Well-known member
Mitchell recommends 85W-140 GL5 in their transmissions and overdrives. The 85W means it will be thinner in the winter and the 140 means it will be thicker in the summer, so more constant in viscosity. The modern oils have additives that protect the gears and will make the transmission last longer. The 600 W oil that is sold is different depending on what vendor you buy it from. There is no standard. It was great oil in 1930 but this is 2021 and oils have come a long way.
The multi grade oil acts like a thinner oil when it is colder and acts like a thicker oil when it is warmer. Thanks Ruth.
The multi grade oil acts like a thinner oil when it is colder and acts like a thicker oil when it is warmer. Thanks Ruth.
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I think it would be better to say 85W-140 is thinner when cold and thicker when warm. It doesn't necessarily have to be winter or summer.
I use Lucas 85W-140 in my Transmission and Mitchell O/D.
eagle
Well-known member
Shifting smoothly in an A isn't difficult if you do a few things. Of course the fluid needs to be up and proper viscosity, I use 100% Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Then: 1. Keep the hand throttle at LOW idle, the lower the better, if you are having trouble with it stalling at low RPM, fix it (vacuum leak, carb issue, float level, etc) 2. Shift early, take a look at the original owners manual, shift at lower RPM. 3. Shift slowly, wait a couple seconds BETWEEN gears. 4. Double clutch when downshifting with a blip on the throttle. Also, don't hurry, give the car time to slow down. There is no reason to grind em', ever.