Got the head studs out

Kevin - Illinois

Senior Member
Got the two stuck studs out of the block this morning. Tried the wax trick and it didn't help, makes sense to me as the viscocity of hot wax changes rapidly as the stud and block cool, it can't sink far enough in to do much good.

The acetone and ATF worked very well as I heated and cooled the studs twice pouring the mix around it after it cooled enough to do so. Even with this the studs both were very dry and made that tight cranking sound on the way out. Aside from the 2 with heli-coils the rest of the threads and holes look good.

Now to complete the deck cleaning and install the new grade 8's with neverseize... I'm scheduled to pick up the head from the machine shop tomorrow afternoon. I'll be taking my bride to Tone's Cone's by Friday night ;)
 
Be carefull with the antiseize. This was discussed rescently in detail on the old forum. I believe that 55 ft-lbs. with antisieze would yield the equivalent of 20% higher than just lubed. Of course this might torque might not fully develop on the lower threads in the block, but something to think about.

Personally, I would use lock tight on the threads in the block. The rust is what had your studs stuck.
 
I use anti seize in the block, as the studs bottom out if they're screwed all the way in and it should not affect the torque reading. Do not use it on the top threads.
 
Pat, I was thinking the same thing. If I were reusing the old studs which came out with the nuts on them I would be concerned as they weren't bottomed in the holes. The new ones will be so I should be able to give them a lite coat of anti-seize before threading them in. I don't plan on using anything on the tops.
 
The studs should NOT be bottomed in the holes other than finger tight.
The top threads should be lubed with most any kind of motor oil.
Remember some of the holes in the block go into the water.These can be sealed with high temp. RTV. Be sure to clean the hole out with acetone before applying the RTV.
Use hard washers under the head nuts and LUBE the washer.
If you want to be polictically correct and super accurate, use the bolt stretch method of reaching the torque value you want.
Torque wrenches won't cut it.
 
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