Gary in Mozarks
Senior Member
Got my hub puller today, Sure makes it easier to pull the hubs than the knock off kind. Now onto brake rebuilding.
Got my hub puller today
- Thread starter Gary in Mozarks
- Start date
Gary in Mozarks
Senior Member
No, I got the kind that uses the plate and two bolts. Worked real slick Got it on ebay for 65 dollars with free shipping.
Gary in Mozarks
Gary in Mozarks
55 dude
Senior Member
lets see a picture of your puller.
Richard (EV8G)
Senior Member
In the other thread about rear axle seals, it is mentioned that the threads stripped on the "less costly" puller. The thing is, if the rear hubs have been properly installed/torqued, they can be a bear to remove EVEN WITH the KRW
ABV-156 puller. If they have not been, the cheaper puller and others that attach to the lug studs may work... the hubs may even almost fall off the axle
BUT the rear hubs need to be properly tight so that the hub cannot rotate on the axle, which I was advised many years ago by John Deats, causes the keyway to eventually spread and leads to development of a crack or cracks
and axle failure, which is never good. Further, the hubs that attach to the lug
studs can result, especially on the 36-39 "wide 5" hubs, in distortion of the hub flange. Also, other pullers can result in ruined axle threads. It is clear that
saving relatively little $ by buying a "less costly" puller can result in having to spend WAY more than the difference "saved" on the puller to repair the damage that can result from using the "less costly" puller. I think this is
called "false economy"???
I would encourage everyone to invest in the Winfield Tool Co. ABV-156 puller.
If you are a member of a club or EFV8CA Regional Group, having one available
for all members to use/share is an even cheaper investment.
ABV-156 puller. If they have not been, the cheaper puller and others that attach to the lug studs may work... the hubs may even almost fall off the axle
BUT the rear hubs need to be properly tight so that the hub cannot rotate on the axle, which I was advised many years ago by John Deats, causes the keyway to eventually spread and leads to development of a crack or cracks
and axle failure, which is never good. Further, the hubs that attach to the lug
studs can result, especially on the 36-39 "wide 5" hubs, in distortion of the hub flange. Also, other pullers can result in ruined axle threads. It is clear that
saving relatively little $ by buying a "less costly" puller can result in having to spend WAY more than the difference "saved" on the puller to repair the damage that can result from using the "less costly" puller. I think this is
called "false economy"???
I would encourage everyone to invest in the Winfield Tool Co. ABV-156 puller.
If you are a member of a club or EFV8CA Regional Group, having one available
for all members to use/share is an even cheaper investment.
Brendan
Well-known member
thats the one i have
about 1980, i took a business trip to Okla City and i stopped by Fred Jones Ford (my brother had worked there); i asked on of the mgrs if they had any flathead tools left. he said all that stuff was long since gone except he looked around and gave me one of the original hub pullers. he said they did not have any use for that any more.
34flathead
Senior Member
after you take off the axle nut off turn it around and put it back on, screw it back on until it is flush with the end of the axle.
this will protect the axle threads from being squashed if the puller bolt slips a little.
i know from experience.
rich
Gary in Mozarks
Senior Member
Yep the threads pretty much stripped on one side of the puller. I don't know if it was because I tightened the other side to much and then tried to pull that side down to match or what. I hate to blame the tool if it was pilot error but I generally am pretty careful with tools.
I think it would be stronger with fine thread bolts, In its defense, it was a really tight hub. I intend to try to tap it out to 1/2x 20 and if that doesn't work I will go to 9/16 bolts. The puller looks well made but the steel may be a little soft for a tool.
Gary
I think it would be stronger with fine thread bolts, In its defense, it was a really tight hub. I intend to try to tap it out to 1/2x 20 and if that doesn't work I will go to 9/16 bolts. The puller looks well made but the steel may be a little soft for a tool.
Gary
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
I made my own puller as well. Not as "purdy" as the one shown above. BUT, it sure has worked good so far on every drum/hub that I have needed to pull. Some of these hubs seemed like they were almost welded in place, but after some torquing down those tight hubs popped right off. JM
Addendum notes.....
The steel plate used to make this puller had been salvaged from some other project, thus the extra holes on the one piece that are not used in the pulling operation. Also these pictures somehow got out of sequence during the posting. I have never damaged axle threads when using this puller but putting something on the threads to protect them would be a good idea. I show a large 3/4" drive ratchet being used to remove the hub/drum in these pictures, but I prefer to use a large 3/4" drive electric impact wrench that seems to work better and prevents the sudden popping of the drum which can be dangerous at times.
Addendum notes.....
The steel plate used to make this puller had been salvaged from some other project, thus the extra holes on the one piece that are not used in the pulling operation. Also these pictures somehow got out of sequence during the posting. I have never damaged axle threads when using this puller but putting something on the threads to protect them would be a good idea. I show a large 3/4" drive ratchet being used to remove the hub/drum in these pictures, but I prefer to use a large 3/4" drive electric impact wrench that seems to work better and prevents the sudden popping of the drum which can be dangerous at times.
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Mike in AZ
Well-known member
yeah, and sometimes it starts to come off, but the brakes shoes seem to be welded to the drum.....or hanging up...more fun, etc...lol.....Mike
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
On protecting the threads...leaving on the reversed nut will help, but a cap there is better. Get a knocker type puller, cheap and still available, and shorten it a bit for a full cap. Drill it at center for a good positioner for the puller, and be sure it has a nub on the inside that bears against center of axle so full load does not go into threads. Both the KRW and the Snap-on--Blue point super duper puller with special Ford arms came with such a cap, but it is generally long lost.
A properly torqued hub requires scary loading on the puller. If you are not in fear for your life when the thing pops, it was too loose!
A properly torqued hub requires scary loading on the puller. If you are not in fear for your life when the thing pops, it was too loose!
1oldtimer
Well-known member
it has a thick spacer that the tool pushes on (goes between the tool and shaft) and didn't distort mine at all.
like the home made puller pics...............WOW do all you guys from Sweden have machining equipment
.
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