Got any tips or tricks - removing radiator- '34

Tom in TN

Tom in TN

Senior Member
This is related to my ongoing post but I wanted to concentrate the answers on this specific problem..

So, I am at pulling the radiator and all that remains are the two bottom hoses. I still have front fenders on it, so there isn't a lot of forward clearance to pull the radiator in that direction.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks that they have used when removing their 1933 - 1934 factory radiator? (yes, mine is a Walker radiator, but it is basically the same)

I'm thinking about putting some upward pressure on the radiator to see it the bottom hoses will disengage. Don't ask me how I will get it reinstalled...

Got any hints?
 
Tom in TN said:
This is related to my ongoing post but I wanted to concentrate the answers on this specific problem..

So, I am at pulling the radiator and all that remains are the two bottom hoses. I still have front fenders on it, so there isn't a lot of forward clearance to pull the radiator in that direction.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks that they have used when removing their 1933 - 1934 factory radiator? (yes, mine is a Walker radiator, but it is basically the same)

I'm thinking about putting some upward pressure on the radiator to see it the bottom hoses will disengage. Don't ask me how I will get it reinstalled...

Got any hints?
Click to expand...

Same answer would apply to most radiators, don't fool with it, just cut the bottom hose(s) off.
 
What I have done after completely loosening the clamps reach in,grab them and break them loose at the connections then slide them all the way back on where they connect on at the motor mount.If they are to tight do as -ford38v8 suggested and put in new hoses when you reinstall.
 
I have just taken the rad out of my 33, if your bottom hoses are old, cut them off, then that rad will come out as easy as, you will then fit new hoses that are nice and playable when putting the radiator back in.
Lawrie
 
Pull the grill and radiator off at the same time or remove the grill and pull the radiator. Are the hoses broke free from each end where they can be turned? Try collapsing the hoses with a big pair of channel locks and then twist. When you replace, be sure to measure and cut the hoses so that they can be slid on way or the other to bend them and remove.
 
jimTN said:
Pull the grill and radiator off at the same time or remove the grill and pull the radiator.
Click to expand...

Given the value and relative fragility of the '33 and '34 grilles, I'd remove the grille first rather than as a unit with the radiator to minimize the weight and bulk of what you're trying to lift. Especially since you still have the fenders on the car and don't want to risk damage to those, either.
 
I would also tape cardboard on each side of the core in the event it bumps into any part of the motor when taking it out.
 
Maybe. Lots of different types of hose has been used by people over the years. Without seeing your lower radiator hoses we don't know what is on your car.
My new favorite lower radiator hose is the silicone type the import tuner folks are using. I used black silicone for the lower hoses on my 38 phaeton and was very impressed by how easy the installation went compared to traditional hose.
 
38 coupe- I had those green stripe, Ford logo hoses, but thank you for the info about the silicone hoses. Flexibility during the reinstall is going to be a must.
Oh, there were no springs, but dawg they were stiff.

itslow & TJ; I'm not worried about my grille. You see, my grille is an original 1934 grille that had been in an accident at one point and about the bottom one-third is leaded to regain its shape. The chrome is mostly gone and since there is no way to re-chrome lead, I just painted the rim rattle-can black

It still looks good for an old hot rod.
 
When I put hoses on I use Napa Sil-Glide lubricant. Part # 765-1351 (says on tube). Its a creamy silicone that makes em go on easy, and years down the road they come off easy too. Lotsa folks use the lower hose for an 8ba style motor as they have a slight offset that fits well in a model 40
 
My method would be to use those giant Channel Locks to bite the hose at the pump neck.
Try to twist ( rotate ) the hose a little to loosen the bond.
If not successful then hose down the hose end, and pump neck with WD40 and find something else to do for a while.
Given time, the juice will seep in and soften the bond between the two.
Repeat channel lock.
 
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It might be worth taping some padding around the headlamps too. It's easy to bang those up when handling the radiator.
 
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