Gorilla Hands strike again-and again

Wuudie

Wuudie

Senior Member
Ok-I jinxed myself in another post saying breaking down the bolts was easy- now I’m paying for it. I gorilla handed the manifold bolt to where it snapped off in the manifold. So I tried using one of those Ribbit screw broken screw back out bits. Gorilla hands striked again, the tempered bit broke off in the broken screw.
Any suggestions? This have to go to a professional?
 

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Take it to a machine shop & have them laser burn it out.. It wont be cheap, or get another manifold..
 
Sounds familiar, I did that first time I ever tried an un-ezeout. You can take it to a machine shop that has an electronic device to eat out the bolt, don't remember the name of the tool. Only try the ezeout on bolts that broke off going in (over-tightening) and not on ones that are rusted tight. One thought you might be able to use a hole saw a bit bigger than the tool and pick out the threads or tap oversize for a heli-coil.
 
Those bits are high carbon steel and sometimes you can use a nailset to break them up. Sometimes not. MIG weld a washer then a nut over the washer and the combination of heat and the ability to leverage by the nut will get it out. Just don't bust out the BFH. Eazy outs and any gimmick drill bit have never worked for me either. It's a bummer. You'll get it though just work at it. You may have to weld it more than once.


Tim
 
Ouch,

Recommend you take it to machine shop; they can fixture it and drill it out with hardened tooling,

Good luck,
 
Wuudie said:
Ok-I jinxed myself in another post saying breaking down the bolts was easy- now I’m paying for it. I gorilla handed the manifold bolt to where it snapped off in the manifold. So I tried using one of those Ribbit screw broken screw back out bits. Gorilla hands striked again, the tempered bit broke off in the broken screw.
Any suggestions? This have to go to a professional?
Click to expand...

I did something similar once, except I drilled into the bolt with too small of a bit and tried to tap it. The tap broke off flush in it, just like your easy out did. I took a Dremel and cut down into the relief areas around the tap and was able to remove it. Maybe you can use that information to your advantage somehow. Good luck!!
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Be sure and remember the bolt hole in the manifold is a blind hole. I made the mistake the first time I attempted to remove a stubborn bolt and broke through to the inside of the manifold. I don't know if this ruins a manifold or not, but I got another exhaust manifold.
 
If it was me ,I'd try looking for another manifold, UNLESS you've already paid to have the surfaces on i/take and exc "straightened. Either way it's going to cost you, another manifold will also probably need to be "straightened to match.
Paul in CT Never had any luck w/easyouts
 
Wuudie said:
Ok-I jinxed myself in another post saying breaking down the bolts was easy- now I’m paying for it. I gorilla handed the manifold bolt to where it snapped off in the manifold. So I tried using one of those Ribbit screw broken screw back out bits. Gorilla hands striked again, the tempered bit broke off in the broken screw.
Any suggestions? This have to go to a professional?
Click to expand...
Wuudie,
I'd soak it with penetrants for a couple of days. Then heat/quench it. Then soak more and weld a washer onto the broke stud, then weld a nut onto the washer. Then more penetrant..work back/forth slowly till loose. Worth a try, if not successful manifolds like that are plentiful. Biggest drawback is the shipping cost.
 
Before you go too far make sure the manifold is even good.All the holes need to line up with a straightedge,lots of times the rear one is drooping.The rear port also seems to get thin too,I have one with less that 1/8 surface to press against the gasket.Every few years the gasket blows out right there.Machine shops here are now $65-$85 per hour,a new manifold may be cheaper.
 
You can get miniature carbide cutting bits that fit a dremel or similar tool that will eat the hardened drill bit or an ez out.You can then carefullt grind away most of the broken bolt then pick the threads out. Clean it up with a tap.They (the carbides) are not that expensive, a good investment for the tool box.
 
A small pointed stone in a Dremel might work. Heating the broken tap red and blasting with oxygen, like a cutting torch, might help.

Breaking out into the manifold wouldn't cause me any concern, just tap and install the bolt.

Last of all, you can join the manifolds with only one bolt or none at all. Downdraft manifolds aren't bolted together.

Richard
Anaheim CA
 
Even if you do decide to go with a new manifold, you will still have to match your old intake manifold to the new exhaust manifold, by bolting them together, and checking parallism of the sealing faces. Milling to true the faces, may be facing you no matter which way you go.
 
Here's how I removed some of these bolts using a mig welder.
Preheat the end of the bolt (the easy-out in your case) with a torch. With current on high, melt a nice cherry bead onto the end of the bolt.
Preheat is a vital step in creating a strong mig weld in cases like this.
As an alternative you can weld on a washer and a nut.
Grab the cherry(or nut) with some SHARP vice grips but don't twist it yet.
Go in through the port from behind and heat the backside of the threaded boss (1 of 2 bumps) ...heat the bump cherry red with your torch and then try the vice grips SLOWLY...most of the time it'll turn out.
If not, soak with penetrating oil and heat/cool a couple times and this should get it out in a jiffy.
If worse comes to worse you can drill a 1/8 hole into the boss from behind to get the oil in and afterwards preheat the boss and zap it with the mig welder to close the hole. The mig will create a nice clean puddle over the hole if everything's clean & preheated.

P.S. be carefull not to bottom out a tap or excessively long bolt in the hole, as the cast boss breaks REAL easy....pops clean off like a mushroom cap it does....
don't ask me how I know :o
 
A small carbide burr in a dremel will eat out the the broke part.

If you heat it and "blast it with oxygen" you can make it harder (cooling it quick)

Just attach the head of a bolt to the intake maniforld --no one will ever know it is not bolted together.

Tig welding a washer to the remains--then welding a nut to the washer works good most of the time.
 
Kurt i must have been lucky, but i have heated them up to cherry and shot a blast of oxygen to it, In my case it blew the tap right out and left the threads in-tack, if you do this please keep in mine it will shoot the melted stuff at your face so please be careful
After you get it out please look at time serting the hole you can check time serting out on the web it will be perfect will done right not a whole lot of trouble good luck AL
 
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