Gordon Smith Model A compressor value

I

i.set_a

Junior Member
I saw it running and pumping good about 8 or 9 years ago with the governor and all working good as it should. He wouldn't sell it at that time. I hit him up today and he will sell BUT he hasn't run it in about 4 years All the cowl, radiator and all it still complete.
 
Gordon Smith can be looked at two ways:

One as a sum of the objective parts to assemble one. In this case perhaps about $1700 of which the largest sum is the motor ($600) and the sheet-metal ($300) Cut frame and suspension/wheel parts perhaps $200. Radiator (used) and shell perhaps $300. Miscellaneous the remainder which include the GS parts and tank.

I recently bought a GS head for $75 and a governor for $20. Another governor and the all important "knock down actuator" came in at $60. I have a fairly new air compressor tank without a compressor.

Or it can be taken as an entity which might be worth less as you don't know a thing about it and its difficult to find out. I might say a little less than a grand since this appears to be a cut-point on used air compressors which will blow up to about 1/4" nozzle for sandblasting which are the nearest functional competition.

A gordon-smith engine has to be subtly modified for use of the GS head. The valves in the two center cylinders are disabled usually by removal of the lifters, and the valves themselves are shaved off level with the cylinder head surface. Thus while not impossible to return a GS engine to "real" service, it has a challenge of re-fitting.

It was common in the day and still is to use an engine which might otherwise be "challenged" with head cracks in the exhaust port area - the Model B is particularly prone to this and was a common choice as the Gordon Smith head CAN cover these cracks on cylinder 2 and 3. (You use "shim" gaskets in the area above the valves.)

The GS service is not too strenuous as engine work goes since a fair portion of operating time is spent "idling." And forces in the crank area are "balanced" between cylinders 1 and 2/3 and 4. Still, a lot of engines at the normal end of their car life with crank/connecting rod shims removed got turned over for GS service.

If it ran - it was used. It didn't even have to be a strong runner.

The tanks of the GS compressor DO meet ASME code - at least mine does. Even though made of former 100lb Propane tanks with the bottoms cut off and welded together. But one has to keep in mind it is now a tank which is 70 years old and has seen its share of service - and wear & tear - mostly of a corrosion kind as compressed air is "humid" air.

So a "functional" GS compressor has value, but not necessarily optimal value. All negotiating points to those of a mind to purchase.

It is common to see restored GS compressors in the $2K range. Like their parent Model As this may depend on the condition of parts making it up. I consider that number a bit high given the even greater uncertainty of components of the GS compressors. A good paint job does not confer safety and possibly not even value.

Anyway, this my take on Gordon Smith. EXCELLENT compressors for sandblasting as their optimal range seems to be in the 75 to 100 psi range - you don't get a lot of "dusting" by grid breaking up at that pressure.

Joe K
One stationary GS compressor in use. Another mobile unit in development.
 
Used,not running but complete. $300-$600 depending on condition and the way it was built.
That's the prices I've seen over the last few years here.
 
A construction company paid me 1000$ for the use of it for a week, plus lunch for me to tend it
There's value in what it can do, and all the little hard to find parts like carb throttle bracket--- governor linkage
 
Last edited:
were the heads on these compressors "jigglers"?

for some reason i had a reference picture in my mind from back when i was going to model one, but cannot seem to find it. from asking on HAMB, i can only find reference to a jiggler head on a V8 60 engine.

were these ever made to operate on a full size flathead?

thanks
 
Off topic, but this is what we bought to update our club's compressor.

picture.php
 
Somewhat related ..... when running well, how many CFM would these put out
and at what overall PSI ? Could one of these run a sand blaster for doing frames
and other heavy items - outside? Thanks
 
It will run a 1/4” nozzle without having to run at high rpm,the air will be hot, moist.
I had a coil of hose in 55 gallon drum full of water for a condenser then a 10 gallon tank with drain on bottom that let the water out.
My idle down at pressure didn’t work- adjusted the governor to the nozzle and the pressure I wanted
They were designed to run 1 jackhammer.
 
Could one of these run a sand blaster for doing frames
and other heavy items - outside?
Click to expand...
EXACTLY my use.

TIP ceramic nozzles START at about 1/8" orifice - but quickly and then more slowly wear out to about 1/4" - and at 1/4" the GS runs maybe half the time.

I.e. indicating some margin still left - but time to start thinking about starting over.

I use a fairly "fine" grit. I have used "beach sand" on occasion simply because it was cheap for me then - and living on Cape Cod as I was I was virtually surrounded by the stuff - it simplified clean up if done in the back corner of my property.

I have tried Black-Beauty left over from the boiler cleaning at the power plant. They use big nozzles and work fast and their NEW BB is not good at the 1/8" hole - although not surprisingly, USED BB is better. The power plant had TONS of used available for the taking.

Here in Cow Hampshire, the major source of Black Beauty was just south of Merrimack Station off Route 93 - which USED to be the source for the Coal slag. They're still around but not likely at that location.

https://blackbeautyabrasives.com/black-beauty-original/

My GS compressor was best between 75 and 100 psi. The lower number would be "better" not only in the ability of the compressor to keep it, but also in not "pulverizing" the grit to dust. When one does body panels, too much pressure can "warp" a panel.

"Impact stress relief" would be the engineering term - you short term "compress" the metal and the "rebound" relative to the surround relieves the stress - and allows the panel to warp.

Joe K
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top