Going Crazy Smelling Gas Fumes

leadpot

leadpot

Senior Member
Getting a strong gas smell inside my 29 tudor & believe it is coming from the gas gauge. The steering wheel bracket has been converted to a 31 and there is no sign of any leakage there, same with the shutoff valve & fuel line connections. Have checked them all by smell and by rubbing a tissue on them for signs of moisture. Do not get any smell in the engine compartment either, carb not leaking. That said also cannot see any sign of a leak around the gauge itself. Also eliminated the gas cap itself by a temporary seal around the cap.

What happens - When tank is full with liquid around the gauge the fumes are constant, when lower in the tank only get fumes when the gas sloshes around in the tank, like when fast stop or start. Very irritating and wife often doesn't like to ride.

What I have done - Have had the gauge out a dozen times & have cleaned / polished all the sealing surfaces. Have tried rubber gaskets, cork gaskets, doubled the first cork gasket, tried with fuel proof gasket sealer, mostly without sealer etc. Have gone through multiple sets of gaskets & new glass. have studied the assembly pictures & am confident it is going together correctly. Am out of ideas and hoping someone can give me give me some fix or tell me what I'm overlooking.
 
Maybe from the firewall forward ?
Just be careful of diagnosing gas fumes --good idea to disconnect batt
 
just fixed the same problem, always a slight smell of gas and never could find the leak.:( took the gas gage out and found a gasket the PO installed with a tear at the top, every time I would fill up or the gas sloshed it would seep out, 5 cent gasket fix it.:)
 
Some points to consider:
>Gas tank is vented to the atmosphere via the gas tank cap. When the tank is full or near full, gas fume leakage will be at the maximum;
>Carburetor bowl is also vented to the atmosphere. Make sure this vent hole in the upper casting is open, or gas leakage out of the throat will be certain as the carburetor warms up;
>Fumes will permeate the garage down low, so its a good idea to open the garage door now and then;
>It is a very bad idea to store a Model A in heated garage where there is a pilot light on the heater;
>When the windshield is open over the gas cap, fumes get into the car;
>It is a pain in the derriere to tighten the gas gauge, so it might weep and or leak;
>When parking in the garage after a run, it is a good idea to run the engine with the gas valve OFF to empty gas from the carburetor bowl so it will not drip onto the floor;
>Occasionally feel the gas shutoff valve. If it is wet, the valve needs some TLC or replacement with a new one;
>Gas lines made of copper are not good because copper work hardens from vibration and will crack;
>Rubber hose joints in the gas lines are a bad practice because they are extra leaks points, and because rubber fuel lines have a finite life and fail without warning.

IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT, BUT KEEP AN EYE ON IT BECAUSE IT WILL EVENTUALLY MALFUCNTION!
 
Use an HC detector to locate and pinpoint the leak exactly in 15 seconds or less. Most garages have them, the emissions gas analyzer for the tail pipe also utilizes it...
 
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If you suspect the gas gauge, can you take the gas gauge out and leave it out for a few days just to see if the problem smell goes away.
 
One (1) sincere suggestion already experienced many times:

Many at our age either smoked or were around tobacco smoke when young and never realized our sniffer was severely damaged until in the presence of young people who never smoked.

You could try getting a young kid to sniff around and you will be surprised how well they can pin point the origin of not just odors ...................... also, these younger kids can far more accurately pinpoint locations of noises such as knocks, squeaks, and hisses.

I remember hearing once of a Gaseous Cigar smoking Barber in a nearby town who only had old smoking guys for customers who could not hear well and could not smell well .......... young guys never came in his shop and he never knew why.

Hope this helps. Life is so simple.
 
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Are you using a wrench specifically made for the fuel gauge? If you don't have one perhaps you are not getting it tight enough.
Leave the dash panel off and fill the tank so you can get a good look all around the gauge to check for seepage.
If you have the gaskets in the correct places and it still leaks I would think you have a flaw of some type on one of the mating surfaces.
 
With your hands nice and clean, feel around the steering wheel bracket where it attaches to the bottom of the gas tank.
Give your pinkies a sniff.
If you smell gas on 'em, you problem is the bracket. It is an 85-year-old problem.
Sometimes you can fix it with a coat of tank sealer. Other times you have to have the bracket re-soldered.
 
Bruce said:
With your hands nice and clean, feel around the steering wheel bracket where it attaches to the bottom of the gas tank.
Give your pinkies a sniff.
If you smell gas on 'em, you problem is the bracket. It is an 85-year-old problem.
Sometimes you can fix it with a coat of tank sealer. Other times you have to have the bracket re-soldered.
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leadpot said:
The steering wheel bracket has been converted to a 31 and there is no sign of any leakage there, same with the shutoff valve & fuel line connections. Have checked them all by smell and by rubbing a tissue on them for signs of moisture.
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Good suggestion but I think he has it covered with the addition of the '31 mount.
 
When installing the gas gauge I find the best gasket set is the cork gasket set with one or two brass slip washers. Without the brass washer a gasket can be pinched and leak. Could that be your problem?
 
FrankWest said:
If you suspect the gas gauge, can you take the gas gauge out and leave it out for a few days just to see if the problem smell goes away.
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HI Frank. I have been wrestling with this suggestion. Removing the gas gauge will leave a large hole in the dash straight through into the petrol. Is this what you mean? Or maybe your car is different from a 29 and has a remote tank and gauge?
SAJ in NZ
Just realised you might be joking. Apologies if you were.
 
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If you can't leave it out, consider replacing the gas gauge, Especially if the problem began after you installed it. It could be a defective gauge?
 
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Be careful WHO you listen to. I have done four hydrostatic gauges and all were just dandy. The sending units can be repaired easily, gauges too.
 
SAJ said:
HI Frank. I have been wrestling with this suggestion. Removing the gas gauge will leave a large hole in the dash straight through into the petrol. Is this what you mean? Or maybe your car is different from a 29 and has a remote tank and gauge?
SAJ in NZ
Just realised you might be joking. Apologies if you were.
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FrankWest said:
My car a 1933 ford has NO working fuel gauge.
It is supposed to a hydro-static fuel sending unit. Which supposedly didn't work right even back in 1933.

Not sure how the gas gauge is hooked up.
You would have to either add a cap or a section of tube to take the fuel gauge off line. Or if that is not possible I would try replacing the fuel gauge. Because you begin taking everything apart on your fuel line.
Did you smell this petrol smell before you put the fuel gauge in?
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forever4 said:
My 32 fordor also has a hydrostatic system and it works great after I originally set it up. Most people don't have a clue how they work.

Like most things, they have to be installed correctly, and with neither air leaks nor air blockages. Then they are bulletproof. I have complete information about it on my web site.
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That's all well and good but this thread is about a 28-31 Fuel gauge which is different than your '33. Your fuel tank isn't even in the cowl is it? To prevent confusion, let's stick with the OP's question please.
 
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