gluing down top bubbles

D

Dune Country

Member
'31 CCPU prior owner welded a steel top on it.
drilled holes 2" apart and installed fabric and hide-um with pop rivets in the sunshine here yesterday.
put her in the shop, this morning there are a couple of small bubbles, Tried to drill out a couple of the rivets to pull the fabric and they spun almost tearing the fabric.
My thought is to use a syringe with a needle and squirt some glue into the little bubbles. Anybody done this? and know of a thin type of glue that will squirt?

tnx
Greg
 
i have used quick dry epoxy in a syringe for my running board mats when they had an air bubble. the syringes actually come with the epoxy that we use at the shop. inject and place a flat heavy object on it
 
Dune Country .........
You can safely slice your bubble with a razor blade and when you glue it down, it will be totally sealed.
Like CarlG says, it might be factory.
MIKE :)
 
The problem with epoxy and a flat heavy object is that the epoxy may leak out and adhere to the flat heavy object !
Al
 
luckyal said:
The problem with epoxy and a flat heavy object is that the epoxy MAY leak out and adhere to the flat heavy object !
Al
Click to expand...

have done it many times with a syringe the size of a needle point, quick cure 2 min liquid epoxy and very little product injected. until you or your mechanic try's it lets not be hypothetical. i am just sharing my experiences that i have had success with to help others
 
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and I am also shareing my experience and injecting some common sense into the solution ! My mechanic has nothing to do with it !!
I prefer no risk and your method has risk involved.
Al
 
Lay a sheet of plastic wrap over the repair before placing the heavy object on top. The plastic wrap peels away from the cured epoxy with ease (assuming there's nothing already on the plastic wrap).

Have been building model airplanes for almost 35 years, have LOTS of experience with epoxy.
 
P.S. said:
Lay a sheet of plastic wrap over the repair before placing the heavy object on top. The plastic wrap peels away from the cured epoxy with ease (assuming there's nothing already on the plastic wrap).

Have been building model airplanes for almost 35 years, have LOTS of experience with epoxy.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's how I do it.
Same here over 30 years of model building did come in handy in the old car hobby for me too.
 
How about concrete adhesive? It is very milky( latex) cleans with water and impervious to heat & easily injected. I repair concrete overlay that way. Another might be clear Liquid Nails. It takes a few hours to cure.
 
Thanks for all of the reply's.
I like the plastic wrap or wax paper, use it when doing fiberglass also.
Razor blade would work also.
I have taken some scrap material and glued it to steel with elmers, trim adhesive and super glue, didn't have a chance to check it this morning.

My shop came with a 1 ton Jet electric hoist, had the engine up on a bench to install the trans, lifted 'er up, removed the saw horses and it wouldn't go down,
got out the ladder and turned out the contactor points are burned, called to order points and have to buy the whole contactor unit ($350.00)!!!
I'll be taking a chain fall from work to get the engine down and cruising the net today for points.
 
nope, 2 are fried down to the base plate, not having much luck finding them either.
might just silver solder some on if I can find them.
 
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