Glassic ?????

joe100

joe100

New member
I have a Glassic Replicar of a 31 Ford Phaeton it has a 302, V/8, 289, engineand a complete 1972 Ford drive train. I'm at a loss it broke down on me yesterday coming form a car show which I won a Spectators choice a 100mile ride away with out any sound or telltail sign it just stopped as I coasted off the rode????? Loss for words I checked the fuel gage was over 1/2 full not trusting the gauge I added 2 gals of gas, I checked through the carb is getting gas. Checked fuel from pump going into fuel filter and out the other end. I checked the cylinders to see if they were firing all 8 cylinders show spark ???? Whats next did this engine have nylon timing gears or chain or keyed gear that I wouldn't hear?? If broken I didn't check the timing asking questions first it just won't start. trying to start then stops?? I'm lost any Ideas what to do next? Thanks Joe:confused:
 
Here's a Picture I hope?
 

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ooookkk, you have presented us with quite a problem, you say you have spark to the plugs so that means the cam is turning, you say you have fuel to carb so the fuel pump is working, if a motor has fuel and spark it should run, so lets start at the begining, remove the air filter and pour a little gas in carb, if it starts its a fuel problem, next remove the #1 spark and put your finger over the hole, have some one bump the starter till you feel compression building then turn engine over by hand till the mark on crank shaft pulley and the pointer on cam cover line up, remove dist cap and see if the rotor is pointing at #1 plug, if not engine may have jumped time on the cam , if that is alright run a compressin check on all cylinders
 
I bet he does have that damn ignition box set up ! I worked for Ford when they were around and replaced a lot of them ! If not , you got me stumped ! Will need allot more details if you don't have the Ford box !

Jim
 
To take Gerry's question a little further,does it try to run until you release the key from the start position?If so,the module is bad.Often you can hit the box with a hammer and temporarily correct the problem,although the box should be replaced at the soonest possible time.This is assuming it is a 70's Ford system.
 
OK ! here,s what I have the coil gets HOT 185* The resistor will burn your fingers its so hot I beleive this to be normal???? Does the Ford box gold plated in color about 3"x3" kinda flat looks like a regulator??? Blew cold air on both coil and resistor got it going, Looks like I might need new?? the resistor shows to be OK with OHM meter? Whats the resistance?
You guys are great thanks a lot JOE:rolleyes: Gonna take it for a test ride this morning keeping fingers crossed
 
Had a brand new '74 Grand Torino that would stop running. The dealer couldn't get it to fail. It stopped while the family was in line at a state park and an off duty mechanic came to me and told me to put a bag of ice on the module on the left front fender. The dealer tried it again and when I looked at what they were doing,they had the hood up and it kept running. I shut the hood and the engine soon stopped.
 
DURA SPARK......was a piece of junk when first out but they got it squared away....have one in my street rod, been there for 135K, all the "stuff" has run out onto the garage floor but it keeps one going....yup, carry the replacement with me.
 
When I worked for Ford back in the mid 70's to 80's as a mechanic , when ever I got one like that I just replaced the ignition box with a new one . I never waited until it would happen to me ! Took to much time and didn't get paid for waiting till something happened . You could also have a "Hot & Cold" coil too . Coils run for a while and when it gets hot , they stop . Wait till they cool off and start right up and drive away ! I would start with the ignition box , then the coil . If it ends up being the coil then keep the box in the trunk for a spare when the other ignition box stops working !

Jim
 
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