Getting to the chassis serial numbers

RobbHelf

Member
Has anyone out there devised a way to get a look at the mid-frame and aft serial numbers on a 1933 chassis without removing the body? All I've ever read was that the numbers are not accessible. Just curious. I want to verify that my forward chassis serial number has not been messed with.
 
That's what I'm afraid of hearing from you experts out there. Just wanted to throw it out there and see if any clever ways exist.

Thanks for your comment!
 
Going through this with a 32. I live 20 miles from town and the Hi way Patrol inspector wants me to lift he body off the frame and bolt it down with 4x4's between the body and frame and bring it to town. That way he can ID it with a mirror. Then he wants to print a copy of VIN on a metal tag and rivet it to door post. Pain in butt big time.

Tim
 
The front serial number is normally visible on a 33 or 34 Ford so you don't have to lift the body. It's right in front of the body on the top of the driver's side frame rail. Why can't you use that SN stamping?
 
One of the problems is they were never put in consistent places, they can be almost anywhere and sometimes very faint. There are generalized locations where the numbers "should" be located, but in reality they may be almost anywhere along the frame rail. The numbers near the center of the rail and near the rear spring often do not have the prefix on them. I have seen a lot of frame numbers that would be very hard to read with the body raised an inch or so and using a mirror. It will take more than just lifting the body as there will likely be webbing material, etc. also along the frame and it will be difficult to get it all cleaned up. It is hard enough to find and read these numbers on a bare frame!!
 
You don't say whether or not the transmission is in the car. If it is , and the number on the transmission matches the frame number, that would be a very good indication that both are original numbers/transmission.
 
The front serial number is normally visible on a 33 or 34 Ford so you don't have to lift the body. It's right in front of the body on the top of the driver's side frame rail. Why can't you use that SN stamping?
His first post said "I want to verify that my forward chassis serial number has not been messed with." Maybe the number looks funny? Restamped with the wrong font? Factory error? Or maybe he just doesn't trust the guy he bought the car from.

Charlie Stephens
 
That seems like a lot of effort unless there is a really compelling reason to check the numbers.
 
My 33 has a visable number stamped on the left frame rail ahead of the body, about where the steering box is mounted. I don't think there were any other places (except for the transmission of course).
 
My 33 has a visable number stamped on the left frame rail ahead of the body, about where the steering box is mounted. I don't think there were any other places (except for the transmission of course).

Top of left frame at drivers door and top of left frame at top of rear axle kick up.
These second and third locations seldom included the prefix.
 
Hi guys,

I do know for sure that my frame number ahead of the firewall on the left side and the transmission cover match. I have every confidence that the font of the frame number is a correct one, too.

Not sure if some of you remember my enormous thread of a few weeks ago about a very, very early V8 block(Sept. '32) on a '33 frame. So many guys helped out determining the probable production history of my car and the question did surface as to whether the front frame number may have been "dicked" with. I don't think so, but I was just fishing out here in the Forum to see if there were any tricks to see the other 2 numbers, without lifting the body.
I appreciate all the efforts here to help me out! Will for sure NOT remove the body.
 
Take a 2X4 about 8 or 9 inches long and cut it diagonally from corner to corner on the 2 inch side making a wedge. Drive this between the frame and body to lift the body up from the frame. Do this in the area where you think the frame number might be until you locate it. Use two wedges at a time. Use a small mirror of the appropriate size and a flash light to read the frame number. Seldom necessary to unbolt the body from the frame.
 
Take a 2X4 about 8 or 9 inches long and cut it diagonally from corner to corner on the 2 inch side making a wedge. Drive this between the frame and body to lift the body up from the frame. Do this in the area where you think the frame number might be until you locate it. Use two wedges at a time. Use a small mirror of the appropriate size and a flash light to read the frame number. Seldom necessary to unbolt the body from the frame.

Roger, I hope you are prepared to offer evidence that this method can produce the desired result without dire consequence. Or perhaps I misunderstood your post. Either way, please elaborate on your method that seems to suggest the body is like rubber and will return to rest on the frame as if it had never been pried away.

I'd like to point out also, the stamping at the front was almost always done with more force, and protected over the years with layers of grease. If that stamping is not legible, the other two would not likely be worthy of the task to reveal them, unless a close examination of the condition of the frame shows no more than a mild surface rust.
 
My 36 has the one on the rear axle kickup, but none could be found in the middle, and it took a lot of careful cleaning to find it, I doubt that anything less than unbolting that side and loosening the other would be enough to find and read it ---perhaps showing the trans # matching the frame # --and that the number styles are both matching and proper could be enough ---then on the other hand if they don't match it could be the reason for the need to see the "hidden" #
 
I could never find the numbers on my '40 frame anywhere, except on the front end by the sector, and it was very hard to read.
 
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