Getting Started on a 32 Tudor

On the next firing remove the set screw on the oil pump ,rollit on the starter till oil comes out .I have seen them were the oil pump was not in the slot .
 
FlatheadTed said:
On the next firing remove the set screw on the oil pump ,rollit on the starter till oil comes out .I have seen them were the oil pump was not in the slot .
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I am pretty sure it is in the slot. I twouldn't go all the way up until i rotated the shaft to the right position. The pan wouldn't go all the way up till that was just right.
 
jim1932 said:
According to the the 1932 Ford Book, the horn is an early sparton, but is missing the plate. Anyone make a reproduction of the plate?
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They used to make them years ago. A model A plate is very close and nobody but an expert would know the difference. Did you ask the guy who keeps advertising restored horns on this site (check the Model A ads).

Charlie Stephens
 
I thought I would update this thread. Went back up to work on the car this weekend. Stopped in at Dick Spadaro's on the way home from the airport. Man does he have a lot of used stuff. Got to see his 32 Tudor as well. Busy day yesterday. Started the POR 15 treatment on the gas tank. Got the seats and floorboard out (after a quick call to Roy for directions). found a previous owners 1947 license in the car as well as a wooden gas guage stick in the door. Replaced the battery tray and fuel pump. Got the horn working. Once I got the wires hooked up right and realize my uncle had wired a door bell button by the vacuum gauge, it worked. Had to take the heater out to get the floor out. Drilled out the lock on the hubcap. All the parts work on it so I may get the lock replaced and use it. Believe it or not I have yet to need penetrating oil on a single nut so far. Car is in great shape. More work on the tank and getting the floor board ready to go in today then putting it away till the July 4th weekend. Crossing my fingers on getting it to saratoga. Might trailer it up if I have to.

More photos on Smug mug: http://jrodda.smugmug.com/Cars/henrysB/14423836_RvcVo#1253264092_5sctdM5
 
Just enjoyed leafing through all the pics.

It's a really nice car, lots of people would love to find one like that.

Mart.
 
Jim,

Judging from your latest photos, you might want to add a rear view mirror bracket to your 'parts wanted' list as it is not a '32 item.

Dave
 
Jim,

You may wish to also add an ammeter to the list as the one in your photos is for a '33-'34 commercial vehicle/truck, given my understanding that you are replacing the main wiring harness (which will have connectors for two posts on the back of the ammeter, not a single wire to pass through a loop as on the ammeter in your photos).
The back of the '32 ammeter is shown on page 6-30 of your book.
 
DavidG said:
Jim,

You may wish to also add an ammeter to the list as the one in your photos is for a '33-'34 commercial vehicle/truck, given my understanding that you are replacing the main wiring harness (which will have connectors for two posts on the back of the ammeter, not a single wire to pass through a loop as on the ammeter in your photos).
The back of the '32 ammeter is shown on page 6-30 of your book.
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I have the correct ampmeter. Haven't put it in yet. Any idea what the rear view mirroris for? I am trying to make sure my leftovers get to the correct cars.
 
It is not for any Ford up to and including early '36. After that the Ford mirror glass was no longer held in place with a clamp style bracket like that in your photo. You can see the depression in the fabric for the base of the original bracket which is larger than the base of the replacement.

Ford closed car mirrors from mid-'32 through early '36 were the same so replacement should not be too difficult.
 
jim1932 said:
Who cuts keys from the numbers? I want to get copies of my ignition key.
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Jim,

The last time I needed a key for my '32 I took a key blank (available, I believe, from Bob Drake and others) to my local locksmith. It wouldn't fit in his machine because the cuts were too close to the bottom edge of the blank. New keys are apparently all wider. I told him to straighten out two paper clips and place one under the blank and one under the key I wanted to duplicate. This spaced the keys high enough to cut and it came out great.

Charlie Stephens
 
This is like having long distance girlfriend.....
So I brought some smaller parts home with me to work on. Metal pieces I am trying to stop from rusting away. the pedal plates are going on new floor boards so i rust soaked them and repainted them. Cleaned up the seat adjuster and repainted it. Did a good job of masking it off if I do say so myself. Still has patina on the handle....lol

Having a bear of a dime getting the distributor apart. the "cam" that is under the big screw won't budge. The screw cam out ok. Any tricks?
 

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Tierod,
I do have a battery. I think the case is too small for a permanent solution, but it works for now. My dad can use it in his old john Deere dozer when I get a more correct one.
 
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I am constantly amazed at this car. Growing up in Massachusetts where cars rusted to nothing in 6 or 7 years.... This part is 70 years old and after stripping the paint it is not far from what it looked like new. I stripped it because I have new floor boards and thought the plate would look better redone.
 

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Went up this weekend and worked on the car. Two gallons of liquid stripper finally got all the loose sealer out. The tank is back on the car. Dd not have time to try it out. Went to put in the new exhaust.... Great news was I have 2 of 3 original hangers and an original clamp. Bad news is I thought I had a solid pipe from the motor to the muffler. Once i took the muffler off I could see that the end had rusted and it looks like about 7" were cut off and the muffler Cramer on. Is explains why the last piece of tailpipe was not on it. Pulled off the three shocks I have (one is Mia) so I can send them to Bill to rebuild. Also noticed the driver rear fender has a repair done to it. You can only see it from inside the fender well. Oh, used the stripper to take the paint if the back bumper. I think it will be good enough to re-chrome.

More photos added to smug mug:
http://jrodda.smugmug.com/Cars/henrysB/14423836_RvcVo#1069694570_uMWo7
 
Here are the fender pics. The fender looks straight. Did he "save" a pair of bobbed fenders?
 

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