Getting Started on a 32 Tudor

Jim, Yes, the gas tank can be removed without raising the body. There are three mounting bolts hold the tank in place. You'll need to remove the taillight(s), bumper, bumper irons, frame horn covers, spare tire & mount, fuel line and air line from the fuel sender/pickup assembly before removing the tank. I would also clean/rebuild the fuel pump before attempting to start your car for the first time. Make certain the fuel lines are clear from the tank to the carb. Good luck, Pat
 
Great post Jim, I can almost smell that old car from here...nothing comes close to finding an old Ford ...now that you are in, there is no getting out.....it`s a "for life," addiction....lol
 
Got to love the 1932 ford book. Found out that what I thought were scrap pieces in the back seat were the engine splash pans. Not to worry, nothing is going to be thrown out..... Oh no...I am going to have a garage full of stuff I never throw away aren't I?:D
 
Jim,

When you put the tank back be sure that one bolt is attached with a spring and castle nut. If I remember correctly it is the one on the driver's side. This is to allow for frame flex.

Charlie Stephens
 
My driver's side door does not like to close. It acts like it has got something in the hinge. It goes easily to about an inch or two from closing, then you have to push a little on it. It still closes and looks OK once it is closed. Is this a bent hinge? how do you fix it?
 
jim1932 said:
My driver's side door does not like to close. It acts like it has got something in the hinge. It goes easily to about an inch or two from closing, then you have to push a little on it. It still closes and looks OK once it is closed. Is this a bent hinge? how do you fix it?
Click to expand...

Without seeing it I think your guess is probably good. Compare it with the hinge on the passenger side. I haven't done it before but I assume you would need to remove it and take it to someone that could heat it and straighten it. Plan on the screws holding the hinge on to be difficult to remove.

Charlie Stephens
 
jim1932 said:
My driver's side door does not like to close. It acts like it has got something in the hinge. It goes easily to about an inch or two from closing, then you have to push a little on it. It still closes and looks OK once it is closed. Is this a bent hinge? how do you fix it?
Click to expand...

One of the hinges was probably stuck one time and someone bent things a bit opening the door.

Make sure there are no odd bits of trim or anything else in the door aperture.
Close the door very carefully and look for where it goes tight first. lets say it's the bottom hinge - look for distortion of the sheet metal of the door directly adjacent to the hinge - it may be bent. (the sheetmetal not the hinge)
If it is bent, you need to unbend it.
Put a piece of wood in the door jamb right at the hinge and push the door against it. Do it a little at a time until you undo the original damage.

You need to use carefully applied force- after deciding what needs straightening - just use common sense and don't overdo it.

Mart.
 
Mart,

Thanks. I thought that was how you fix it )wood block in the door), but for some reason (lack of caffine?) I wasn't sure.
 
Thought I would post an update. MY dad had a nerve in his hand operated on and I am back in maryland so not much new going on. I got a new switch for the starter, a new battery box/holder, fuelpump rebuild kit, I also found some old zenith carbs so I will do a full rebuild and also replace the half of the original carb that had a bad weld job.

Oh and found an original tail light bracket to replace broken one. Bought plane ticket to go up and work on it last weekend in February. Plan is to get it running, pull the oilpan and clean it and pull the gas tank and maybe radiator and get them cleaned. That should be enough work for a weekend...LOL

Oh yeah, I am replacing the radiator hoses with correct looking ones. For now I am going to pull the heater our but if I can get it working I might put it back in. Seems to be correct for the 30's at least.
 
Last edited:
Update. Went up this weekend and got a lot done. First issue was getting the switch I got put on the starter, new battery, hit the switch....nothing. tried another switch, nothing. Turns out my Dad forgot to release the springs on the brushes. We fixed that and the car fired right over with the plugs out....plugs back in added lawn mower Gas tank hooked directly to the carb (still need to rebuild fuel pump), got the fire extiquisher just in case, and it started right up! Only ran it for 10 seconds but it sounded good.

We pulled the gas tank, still had a couple of gallons in it (looked dark as diesal). No real sludge, but some surface rust. We are contemplating the rock tumbling routine, but I think we will just go with rust treatment and sealer. The pickup unit wasn't even plugged up. Didn't even need penetrating oil on the bolts, it all came right off. Car hasn't seen moisture in 40 years...

Pulled the oil pan (had to post here to find out I needed to turn the steering wheel to the left to get the pan to go past the tie rod). Dumped the oil out and dropped the pan in the grass. The inner piece popped right out. Oil in the bottom was like mollases but no chunks of anything in it. We did find some gasket looking material in tihe screen for the oil pump, not a lot though.

What a pain in the AS_ to get the pan back on. Finally realized I needed to screw a bolt in where the setscrew was to hold the oilpump up. Got it all back together.

Was VERY happy to discover the bottom plate for where the pedals meet the floorboards was still attached. My drivers side door is pretty screwed up. May have been repaired, but it is way out of alignment and the seam looks like it is coming apart by the bottom hinge.

My locking hub cap on the spare has no key and I can't get at it even from the back. The rear bumper was broken off and welded back on. It looks straight but is why it was painted and not the polished nickle. Sorry for the long post but excited to finally have progress.



Ne
 

Attachments

  • tank.JPG
    tank.JPG
    40.9 KB · Views: 40
  • bumber back.JPG
    bumber back.JPG
    60.8 KB · Views: 37
  • oil pan.JPG
    oil pan.JPG
    71.4 KB · Views: 40
Mart, Does that mean I am entertaining? LOL.... I swear I feel like Barney Fife most times. LOL
 
couple of more pics and questions.
What model horn is this, Where is all the oil on the transmission from? the rear seal on the oil pan? Also what are the holes in the middle of my floor for? Other photo''s are just for interest.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1933.jpg
    IMG_1933.jpg
    39.2 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_1934.jpg
    IMG_1934.jpg
    31.4 KB · Views: 36
  • IMG_1935.jpg
    IMG_1935.jpg
    37.5 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_1962.jpg
    IMG_1962.jpg
    54.3 KB · Views: 36
  • IMG_1977.jpg
    IMG_1977.jpg
    44.1 KB · Views: 38
  • IMG_1989.jpg
    IMG_1989.jpg
    49.5 KB · Views: 51
Jim,

Getting a lot done, feels good I bet! I pulled the pan on the wagon two weeks ago. Same thing, why won't it drop down? Finally my dad says, "Why don't we turn the wheel?" That was easy:o. Looked good inside, just some condensation and sludge in the bottom.
Gonna have to check one of the shims that is sticking out.
That horn of yours looks different than what I have, check Dave's book.

Keep 4-banging!
 
One thing I will mention about pulling the pan. The oil pump looked clean from what I saw. Wanting to be thorough I decided to slide the screen out. Was surprised at the stuff way up in the top of the screen. If you pull the pan, be sure to clean that screen!
 
According to the the 1932 Ford Book, the horn is an early sparton, but is missing the plate. Anyone make a reproduction of the plate?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top