Getting ready to swap engines

Art Newland

Well-known member
I'm ready to go pick up a hoist and do my engine swap. I had purchased a new clutch and pressure plate some time ago, before I started hearing all the bad news about disc springs falling out. The disc I have is like this one from Synders. The openings around the springs are smaller than the diameter of the springs, even the wider part of the hole in the center. Any one ever seen a spring pop out of this style?
 

Attachments

  • 20170128_153714 (1).jpg
    20170128_153714 (1).jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 172
  • clutch.jpg
    clutch.jpg
    42.2 KB · Views: 259
This is from brattons.....u want the slanted spring retainers
Ur pic does not appear to have them
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5700.jpg
    IMG_5700.jpg
    20.5 KB · Views: 278
I haven't used one like the first one pictured, but have used the ones that Mitch pictured. That's the style I feel safe to use. Too many horror stories of springs falling out to chance another style.
 
The engine is out! Doesn't look too nasty in the bell housing. Has an aluminum set of float-a-motors, one is cracked nearly all the way through.
 

Attachments

  • 20170131_161944.jpg
    20170131_161944.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 178
The engine is out! Doesn't look too nasty in the bell housing. Has an aluminum set of float-a-motors, one is cracked nearly all the way through.

IMO I would hunt up the proper ford mounts with a new mounting kit from snyders or brattons with the proper rubber L pad....

Now is the time to check your radius rod bolts in the bell housing and taking care of trans leaks/worn pedal bushings/worn clutch bushings.
 
I had the unpleasant task of replacing a disk as in Pic. 1 due to a spring coming out of place and wedging in the pressure plate. Probably less than 1,000 miles on it.
 
I have been looking for stock mounts for a while. I now have three, one looks useable even though it's been welded up, the others are junk. I'll keep looking, but for now it's getting a new set of FAM's from Brattons. I have a Mitchell transmission coming in 2-3 months, so it will be coming apart again. What do I need to check with the radius rod bolts?
 
I agree with using original motor mounts. I've welded up some that were cracked, and they hold up fine.

The rubber motor mount kits that I bought from Snyder's is the correct thickness and a perfect fit.
 
Well, you all inspired me to see about taking my original mounts to a friend that's a good welder, and letting him work them over a bit. One just needed a corner welded. One had the bolt holes severely opened up, so much that you could almost wiggle the head of the bolt through it!:eek:
 

Attachments

  • 20170201_094953.jpg
    20170201_094953.jpg
    44.5 KB · Views: 148
  • 20170201_121510.jpg
    20170201_121510.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 138
  • 20170201_153428.jpg
    20170201_153428.jpg
    35.1 KB · Views: 153
Mitch; What do you mean by "slanted spring retainers"? I looked at the picture and can't see it. Thanks.

A question while on the subject; I'm refreshing my spare engine and the pressure plate has what appears to be stress cracks in several areas; who makes the best replacement pressure plate (now that I know who to get the clutch disk from)? I have found Fort Wayne's website as well as the usual parts suppliers who all appear to sell the same stuff for 1/2 the price of the FW equipment. Any help appreciated. Thanks again.
 
Ah, much better. Now I get it. Thanks guys.

Any suggestions for a replacement rebuilt pressure plate?
 
Back
Top