Getting paint inside boxed in areas?

PeteVS

PeteVS

Well-known member
I recently dragged a new roadster body home from the good people in Brookville Ohio. I'm wondering is there's a way to get paint into some areas that either can't be seen without a mirror or boxed in areas. Something like Ziebart used to do. Or, do they still do it? Thanks!!
 
PeteVS said:
I recently dragged a new roadster body home from the good people in Brookville Ohio. I'm wondering is there's a way to get paint into some areas that either can't be seen without a mirror or boxed in areas. Something like Ziebart used to do. Or, do they still do it? Thanks!!
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Pete:

I've seen a number of multi-headed nozzles for sale on Instagram. I'm sure a Google search will turn up some as well. Maybe even Eastwood, Tip, etc. will have something as well.

It's a brass multi-head nozzle that hooks ups to a tube to allow you to get into nooks and crannies.
 
Use a high quality plastic spray bottle full of rust inhibiter and wipe away any outside drips. Can also use an air compressor with a siphon bottle and long nozzle made from a piece of copper tubing.
After a few days re-spray using high quality paint. Wipe away any drips.
 
I have heard that primer applied by powder coating will get in all of the hidden areas with the electrostatic application. Is this the case or has anyone else tried or have experience with this method?
 
Since the sheet metal is new, I would use marine primer (thinned the normal amount) and apply it using air-compressor and spray gun with special multi-port fitting (as long as needed to reach the hidden area). Enamel overcoat could be optional since marine primer seems pretty impervious to the elements.
 
warhorseracing said:
I have heard that primer applied by powder coating will get in all of the hidden areas with the electrostatic application. Is this the case or has anyone else tried or have experience with this method?
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I would think that "the powder" would not actually be able to squeeze in between all the metal contact joints or surfaces.
 
19Fordy said:
I would think that "the powder" would not actually be able to squeeze in between all the metal contact joints or surfaces.
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I don't know how fne the powder is but the electric charge is supposed to draw it in and cover everything. Isn't the area to be powder coated supposed to be sand blasted first to eliminate scale and oils? I don't know.
 
Another option (though pricey) is to have the body stripped of all oils, etc and then e-Coated and epoxy primered (part of the process). This will coat everything extremely well and is a lasting protection. I'm going to have this done on my 34 coupe - as it is about the only way I can truly protect the INSIDE of things (doors, truck, body areas, etc).
 
I started a thread over on the H.A.M.B on this subject and the powder coaters that responded did not think that all areas would be protected. Pinch weld areas would be the most unprotected along with completely enclosed areas. The E-Coat and Epoxy primer look to be the best option. Considering the amount of money paid for the Brookville body alone it would be a wise investment in preserving it for quite a long time.
 
When I worked at Westinghouse they painted the smaller transformers with a 1/2 or 3/4" pipe connected to a hose. The transformers were on trolley type system & had a large drip container underneath to catch the paint. There was another system that submerged some parts that were hung on a trolley system. Why not submerge the door enough to cover the insides. Believe primer would be less expensive that other systems. You can use the paint that is caught in other places.
I just sprayed in the inside of the doors on my 34 roadster with that expanding foam. Hope it works. I was careful not to get too much in any one area.
 
IMHO the overthinking alarm has been engaged. Powder coating is a terrible idea for the the simple fact that it has poor adhesion. Secondly, the closed areas of a roadster body are few, small or non existent. Wipe it down with oil and grease remover (acetone and lacquer thinner will never work), You can also pour in some metal prep (phorsporic acid + cromate) to give a real bonderized coating. rinse with water and shoot it with etch primer or epoxy DTM primer. and dribble, pour or with nozzle straw shoot into any closed areas you find. Drill a hole in it to gain access if worried. Wipe up what runs out the other side and let dry. Pour some inside the doors and slosh around and have a good time getting it everywhere. Outdoors is a good place for this. Prime with good stuff and be happy.
 
“I just sprayed in the inside of the doors on my 34 roadster with that expanding foam.”
I guess there isn’t a lot of humidity where you are but that foam can trap moisture behind it and rust because it doesn’t get air to dry out......Mark
 
I've read that Ford (and others?) painted fenders and other parts by dipping them. They'd have a large tank just about filled with water. Then, they'd pour a layer of paint on top of the water and gently lower the part into the tank. As the part passed through the paint, it would take the paint with it as it continued down into the water. But, there can't be any air pockets in the part as it goes in because there wouldn't be paint on those areas and they'd wind up bare metal in the water. Seems like a good idea for the doors and trunk lid. Hmmm....
 
Powder coat won’t do it, I have had wheels that would start a rust trail from in between the riveted center and outer hoop. I would thin it down a little, make a multi spray tip attached to a flexible hose and go to town. You might have do it a few times, paint, dry, switch angle and repeat, but you’ll get a full soak. Then just clean up the outside after the inside has cured.
 
I ordered a flexible thing with a nozzle that's made for use with Fluid Film. I think it's expected to be delivered today. I'll see if I can get it adapted to a rattle can. If not, I'll give the Fluid Film a go.
 
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