Getting my headlights working

dwaynec

dwaynec

Senior Member
Ever since I bought my 37 standard the headlights haven't worked. I don't really plan on doing any night driving with the car, but I really want to get them working just in case.

When I bought the car the headlights were disconnected at the bullet connectors on the frame. I The car must have repo headlight/parking light sockets as the wire has plastic insulation versus cloth and the bullet connectors don't look like they are "correct". I figured out which wire went to what light by just jumping from the battery to then connectors on the wire going to headlight bucket. Got them all hooked up and still no lights. Bulbs are not burned out as they light up when I jump from the battery to the connector. So I am guessing that the switch is the problem. I was going to pull the switch, but doing my beached whale thing under the car I could't see what I need to do to get the switch off. I can see the bale holding the thing on but couldn't see what I needed to do to get it off.

Can one of you talk me through the process? Thanks!
 
Dwayne -

From my current vantage on the sofa, my recollection is that with the bail popped off the unit just pulls straight off of the end of the shaft.

To expose the guts there is a nipple in a détente that takes a slight unscrew and pull apart motion.
 
Dwayne, Do that job in two stages. The inside is clean and needs to stay that way, so clean the road grime off the outside of the bulb thoroughly, then wash your hands and release the bale.

However, before you do any of that, check to see that you have power at the fuse. Look up over the steering shaft behind the dash, you'll see the fuse block. All lights run through this fuse. Also check the dimmer switch, as most light headlight failures are due to faulty dimmer switches.
 
With any electrical jobs you really are working in the dark unless you have some sort of a multimeter. You can monitor the volts from then battery to the switch and all the way through the circuit. They're not expensive. A few bucks well spent and it will give you the satisfaction of being able to tackle these simple jobs with confidence. One with a continuity tester is the most useful.

Mart.
 
Thanks for the help. I do have a multimeter and will get to it today. From the looks of things just from laying under the car I think I may have a mess to deal with as it looks like the steering box may be leaking into the switch.. There is definitely grease on the outside of the switch.
 
Checked the voltage at the fuze block. 6.3 volts on both sides of the block. So now to tackle the switch. At least the concrete floor in the garage is cool to lay on.
 
Dwayne, if the insides are full of gunk, it would have come from the tube up the center. Originally, this tube was crimped on, and over time and mishandling, they loosen up and leak. Remove and braze the connection point.
 
I got the switch apart and it was reasonably clean inside. All of the gunk was on the outside. However, I did find some disconnected wires. I have attached some photos. The disconnected wires green/black and yellow/black on one connecter. There are three empty lugs on the disc all right next to each other. The wires that are connected, going clockwise, are two blue wires on one lug, two red wires on one lug and two yellow wires on one lug. All are right next to each other. I guess the reason I have no lights is that the one pair of wires is unplugged. Which of the three empty lugs should it be attached to?
 

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I'm watching this with interest!Why do my lights (38 ford standard)turn on & off,when you turn the steering wheel?Bent rod? Their all slightly curved.The answer eludes me.
 
the steering shaft should be free of old grease , dirt etc, the rod should be straight, and no friction at the top (where the nut holds the wheel on), and a spring at the bottom to give it a bit of tension.
 
The wires that are disconnected are yellow/red and green. I think what I am going to do is hook that up to the center of the three empty lugs and see what happens. I know that the yellow/red wire is the hot wire so I guessing will play with it until I get it right.
 
dwaynec said:
I was going to pull the switch, but doing my beached whale thing under the car I could't see what I need to do to get the switch off. I can see the bale holding the thing on but couldn't see what I needed to do to get it off.

Can one of you talk me through the process? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I replaced the headlight switch on my 1937 Ford De Luxe.

I was able to remove and replace my headlight switch from the top with no problems. Did not have to go under the car to get my hands on it.

When I rewired the car I tried to reuse the old unit -- I hooked up new wires and bake light piece but the lights would not work. I had to go with a new headlight switch. Lights work fine now.
 

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Tony, thanks for the pic of your switch wiring. It confirms what I have done with mine. The only reason that I had to get under the car was to release the bale. Min is under the switch housing versus being on top.
 
One more quick question. Is there supposed to be a grommet where the wiring passes through the headlight switch cover? Mine doesn't have one and it looks like it should.
 
dwaynec said:
One more quick question. Is there supposed to be a grommet where the wiring passes through the headlight switch cover? Mine doesn't have one and it looks like it should.
Click to expand...
No, I don't think so, have never seen one or the remains of one, and the hole is nicely smoothed so as not to cause chafeing.
 
Thanks, I was thinking more of dirt and moisture being a problem.

Is there supposed to be a spring inside the switch housing to push the moving contact plate against the plate that has all the wires attached. Sorry I am challenged when it comes to naming a lot of these parts. At any rate, I got everything connected, and still no lights. I checked to see if I was getting any voltage at the bullet connectors and I am not. My thoughts are that the two plates are not contacting each other.
 
Does the switch and harness assy look original? The old insulating material and bullet connections if original get pretty undependable especially after a lot of handling. The switch and section of harness connecting is fairly inexpensive at Mac's and they will also include a nice connecting diagram. I rewired my entire '35 front to back, all harnesses, light switch and connector housing with the bail after trying to band-aide and failing to get things to work dependably. The Install was fairly easy especially with the diagrams provided with harnesses. I am very happy I did it as everything functions very dependably now with no worries when cruising. Inevitably you will find your self driving at night and as well the brake lights are part of that harness system so you do need it working. Good luck.
 
The switch and harness both look like they have been replaced. Unfortunately the guy I bought the car from had inherited the car and was pretty clueless. I am almost as clueless it seems, but I am trying to learn.

I won't be able to work on the car for a few days now, but I am going to keep trying.
 
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