Getting it Running

kcav8or

kcav8or

Member
My late father had a 1931 Model A that he drove occasionally. He died 12 years ago, and it's been sitting in the garage ever since. I'd like to get it running again. I've bought several books on the topic to eliminate any nasty surprises.

My mother's boyfriend has done a little work on it, replacing most of the ignition system. He told me that the Tillotson Model X carb was leaking fuel, so I decided to take it home and clean it since it looked terrible. I'm half done with that project, and it looks to be in very good condition. I'm waiting on gaskets so I can put it back on, adjust it and see what happens.

I'm planning to replace all the engine and transmission oil before attempting to start or drive it. I also plan to rewire the entire electrical system in the near future since I believe there are several shorts.

What other steps should take on a vehicle that hasn't been driven in a dozen years? And where can I get the information for adjusting and troubleshooting the Tillotson Model X carb?
 
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Unless the insulation is cracked and missing, a new wiring harness may not fix a thing. Shorts normally happen in the headlight connections at the base of the headlamp shell. This is due to loose fitting repro sockets and wire terminals with too large a diameter on the contacts. Grinding the diameter smaller by using a Dremel is a big help.
 
With the engine all ready to start, remove the distributor and pour a quart of oil down the hole. This oils the main and cam bearings. Putting oil in the fill tube oils the rods.
 
Regarding fuel, I understand that these engines don't like to run on unleaded. I am a private pilot and have access to 100LL aviation fuel, which is 100 octane and contains lead. It's the only place you can still get leaded fuel. Do you recommend using that on a Model A?
 
kcav8or said:
Regarding fuel, I understand that these engines don't like to run on unleaded. I am a private pilot and have access to 100LL aviation fuel, which is 100 octane and contains lead. It's the only place you can still get leaded fuel. Do you recommend using that on a Model A?
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The regular unleaded fuel will work just fine as a fuel in your car.
Where you have to be careful is when using the current 10% Ethanol blended product being sold at almost all stations in the area. As the ethanol fuel sits in your tank over a period of time the alcohol attracts moisture which then separates from the gasoline. When that happens you run the risk of rust forming in the gas tank and fuel lines.
Some local Hy Vee food stores with their own gas staions do carry real gas without ethanol. It is their premium blend and has no alcohol added.
 
Bob/Kansas City said:
The regular unleaded fuel will work just fine as a fuel in your car.
Where you have to be careful is when using the current 10% Ethanol blended product being sold at almost all stations in the area. As the ethanol fuel sits in your tank over a period of time the alcohol attracts moisture which then separates from the gasoline. When that happens you run the risk of rust forming in the gas tank and fuel lines.
Some local Hy Vee food stores with their own gas staions do carry real gas without ethanol. It is their premium blend and has no alcohol added.
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You can use a gas stabilizer in the ethanol gas that helps to overcome the problem. But it is better to do as Bob recommends.
 
Thanks for all the advice, and that "Removing from Mothballs" link is terrific. I saw Mike's Tillotson carb link on another post, but that link is broken. Is there a more current one?
 
There can sometimes be a short if you have the original Generator. The cutout {looks like a small can} on the genny has a set of points. If they are stuck together it can constantly drain the battery. Make sure that the points are not sticking and clean.
 
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