Generator wired correctly???

Good - thanks for the report. I am of the opinion that the regulator needs adjustment.
To make the regulator more accessible, I remove the left panel (after getting the engine to operating temperature) remove the regulator cover, connect your analog volt meter ( that you used to test the voltage of the generator) to the BAT terminal on the regulator and the positive of voltmeter to ground. Using very fine sandpaper doubled over, insert in succession between all three contacts, push down on the contact arm and pull the sandpaper thru. Now go to the contacts adjacent to the FIELD terminal and you will see on the back side a spring, one end of which is anchored to a stationary tang which can be bent down to increase spring tension thereby increasing voltage at the BAT terminal. You can do the bending with either a bend tool which looks like an angle screw driver with slots or a pair of long nose pliers. Start the engine and keeping it at 1500 rpm or more, adjust the tang to obtain 7.2 to 7.3 volts. Question - what was the voltage before you made any adjustment?

Try turning the lights on while engine is at 1500 rpm and see if voltage remains at 7.2 - 7.3.

I am assuming that you achieved 0.0 ohms on the ground wire, for if not 0.0, that can give false results in the adjustment outlined above.

You might be able to find a Motors Manual (which I have) for the 38 Ford and Ford published a manual for the generator.

I went thru all of the procedure that I have presented to you last year on my 2 brush with a Borg Warner regulator. NAPA used to market a regulator with an exterior adjusting screw.

Experience is a good teacher. Take your time. It is best to have the regulator warm before making any adjustments - get the engine warm with the side panel in place and hood closed.
One other matter that can drive you nuts is that the wires from the battery and the wire from the BAT terminal on the regulator connect under the dash to a common terminal on either a fuse block (original) or circuit breaker (new in about 1940?). Take that terminal apart and clean the nuts and connectors and put together and tighten. If you have a fuse, replace it with a circuit breaker. You do not want to blow a fuse because of a short - find your self without lights!!!!!! Enjoy your 38 conv. Please report back.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I have the ground wire now at 0.0 ohms.
The generator is from a 1950 truck (engine is 8BA).
I will try your sandpaper approach.

I’m still wondering why at start up the amps gauge shows charge, then begins bouncing before it stops dead center and becomes unresponsive. It behaves this way consistently after a few minutes of run time….

The terminal connector is brand new-all connections clean and tight.
 
Last edited:
You should connect your analog voltmeter as stated to determine if the charging voltage is 7,2 - 7.3 - if not then adjust the field control in the regulator as I stated, Keep at it. Also check under the dash!!!
 
What you describe, "at start up the amps gauge shows charge, then begins bouncing before it stops dead center and becomes unresponsive." sounds perfectly normal to me. The generator should charge heavy after start up because the starter used a bunch of battery, then after the battery gets back to full charge it should zero out. The needle bouncing could be the regulator turning off, and on, but the system is doing what its supposed to do IMHO
 
Last edited:
Ok
Is it also then normal for the amp gauge to read discharged when lights are on and engine revving? This happens after the gauge does it’s charge bounce routine and nothing will cause the gauge to show any hint of charging at that point….
I’m a newbie to Fords so I honestly don’t know what’s normal for this 6 volt positive ground.
My 1936 Chevy (sorry guys!) amp gauge would respond to increases in RPMs, and would show a charge when lights were on and engine revved…the gauge never bounced around like this one…
 
Last edited:
What your are seeing on your amp gauge is not normal. I am on my third 38 Ford with 2 brush generator and regulator and I have seen the amp meter drop back to about 5 amps after the battery recovers from starting. I have cleaned and tightened the connections under the dash where the wires from the regulator and the battery join and also where the cable from the neg on the battery and the wire loom join at the solenoid. Big improvement. The wires under the dash caused the lights to flare brighter on revving the motor at night and the connection under the dash was the cause. And you will notice a big improvement if you clean all connections in the starter circuit including grounds. My 38s had the POS connected to the firewall and another ground strap connected from the firewall to a head stud. Clean all of these connections - starter will act like it is running on 12 volts. Yet, I had to run a 16ga ground wire from the generator case to the regulator frame obtaining 0.0 ohms. My digital ohmmeter revealed that problem plus the fact that a generator - regulator tech advised me years ago to run the 16ga ground wire, notwithstanding the firewall being grounded.

Your amp meter is showing something is wrong with your charging system. My ammeter was flopping erratically and the 16ga ground wire corrected it.

Your Chevrolet amp meter is responding correctly and your Ford should do the same.

Run very fine sandpaper doubled over thru the three contacts in the regulator while holding the contacts together - removes the corrosion.

When you have all of that accomplished, connect your analog voltmeter to the BAT terminal on the regulator and ground, rev the engine to 1500 or more rpm and you are looking for a reading of 7.2 - 7.3 volts and the ammeter should show a charge with the headlights on. If not 7.2 - 7.3 volts then adjust the voltage control near the Field terminal on the regulator by bending down the stationary tab that holds the spring - increases the voltage. Your voltmeter will take out the guess work.
 
Last edited:
Problem solved!!!
Hallelujah!!
A NORS American Bosch voltage regulator ($40 eBay) installed and all is working perfectly!!

A huge thank you to everyone who helped! I truly appreciate you!!
 
When you figure it out let us know . I had the same problem with my 38 Zephyr when I converted to a regulator and never did get it sorted out. Mine would also make the circuit breaker buzz at times. Tim
 
Tim

Problem solved …. I installed a new-old-replacement-stock (NORS) voltage regulator. (See post #27).
Charging system is now working correctly—amp gauge works smoothly and shows charge as it should.
 
90% of the time iv'e found guys with generator problems they were not polarized search it probbably 20+post on that here ,,
fabricator john
miss you dad
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top